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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by JAG1,

    Anyone know a good way to disable the alarm system? It's going off every time I use the key and then have to use the key FOB and hit lock then unlock to shut it off. I don't want to carry the key fob as I may loose it. I keep it in the door handle for whenever it goes off on me but, now it's all the time and had to disconnect the horn. T.I.A.

  2. Started by Spdfrk,

    A little while ago my truck started act funny. You would get on it and then when you would let of it would "fast lope" idle real rough and eventually clear up. Well yesterday I got on it, it started running rough then died and wouldn't start back. I sat in the middle of the road for about 10min trying to start it before I got mad and used the starter with the truck in gear to pull it out of the way. About 20' of that and it fired right up. Any suggestions on what it might be? Only happens after getting on it.

  3. Started by jlwelding,

    I dont know why Im having so much problem finding the right seal. I went to napa and they gave me a 22049, I should have known better cause it popped out in 3 miles, to easy to drive in. So I go to Aline and he couldnt find anything for a nv5600, he had a seal for a 5 speed so I put it in and it leaks, I put another one in because I didnt lube the seal thinking running it dry may have caused it. Nope, it leaks too. The original seal was a 33029 and cant find that seal anywhere. I was hoping someone here might have the right number before I pay 10 times to much for it at the dealer. Thanks

  4. Hey all, back again! lol So, I got my DAP 150's in and there seems to be yet another issue. Truck sat for a few weeks and then I got to doing the injectors and changed the oil and filter (had a lot of fuel in the oil). Put 3 gallons in, got the truck started (checked oil level before, was above operating range) and truck drove and ran great with the new injectors. Was getting about 60-70 PSI cold and once she was warm she was at about 40, but then she went to about 35-38 while cruising at 60. At the stop light, It was right above the lower limit line on the dash gauge. Got to my destination ASAP and shut her down. Looked for major leaks or anything and didn't…

  5. Started by jlwelding,

    So I replaced my airdog150 for the new 4G 165, my only question is why does the return have such a small hole (0.138)? Of course my return dumps into the filler neck and just checking to make sure this will work. Because the system they sent draws through the old sender basket. I have the draw straw drilled at the top of the tank. I think my old 150 electrical plug in is the same so I shouldnt have to replace that, right?

  6. I didn't know how to add to @smokeythedodge thread he has already made so here we go. Please move where needed if required. I figured I could post some helpful part numbers/info along for those looking to replace a (2002) Dana 80 pinion seal and/or pinion yoke. Sometimes obtaining part numbers can be annoying and just plain difficult. I replaced my seal due it starting to leak more as than it had. Started leaking then stopped for awhile and now just started again so I bit the bullet and dove in for repairs. I have a *flanged yoke* aside from @smokeythedodge non-flanged yoke in his thread. I have attached pictures of parts/part numbers and in…

  7. Started by Andyba20,

    Doing research the past few days and was intrigued by the Xotic studs, mainly bc I think ARP is overpriced. Tried to reach out to Xotic, but they have no live phone support. Used their online chat support and talked to “David” in the Philippines. Asked “David” a few questions which were answered with links to the Xotic website, then asked where the studs were manufactured and David abruptly ended the chat. I was able to track down the parent company and CEO information, but by then I’d made up my mind to buy the proven, and American made ARP’s. Btw, the parent company address on Google earth shows up as a muffler shop at an industrial park in eastern Canada. Xotic might b…

  8. I think I remembered about certain things you when adjusting steering play. Don't bear down hard on the adjustment screw, turn wheel back and forth making very small adjustments each time, raise the front off the ground....... That sort of thing? Thanks for any advice. BTW, My truck knows the way to these kinds of places

  9. Started by LorenS,

    What's the normal time to change injectors for those of you who do it all the time? Yesterday I changed injectors, set valve lash, and installed a Vulcan banjo bolt eliminator kit from filter to block mounted pump. Took about nine hours, though had Dirty Jobs and Strange Inheritance on in the background to distract me a few times.

  10. Started by Silver_O1_Dually,

    It’s time to replace the VP44 on my 01 HO 6 speed. I’ve been doing a lot of research on different pumps and suppliers. I’m taking the advice of Mopar Man and have decided to go with a DAP remanded pump. my question is are the “Hot Rod” pumps worth the extra coin? I will be upgrading my injections to 7x.010’s from DAP at the same time. I do not have any tuners on the truck.

  11. Started by jlwelding,

    So I made my first haul with the new to me truck. Pulled over after 15 miles just to look over things and rear end was pretty warm could touch and thats about it. I left my temp gun at the shop so I dont know exactly what the temp was but I was pulling about 17k. Unloaded and got back to shop got heat gun and the pinion bearing area was 150 degrees the lowest part of third member was 138, thats pulling a 8k empty trailer. So I know it was hotter when loaded, lets just say 170, temp was a 60 degree day. Seems a little hot to me. What are you seeing rear end temps at? I replaced the pinion seal and dont know what I torqued it to but I know I looked it up.

  12. Started by Spdfrk,

    It's time to add head studs and I know I'm getting new, stronger valve springs as well. Is there anything else you all would recommend doing at this time as well??

  13. Started by Gregturley,

    I did the grid heater controller that i think MAYBE @IBMobile wrote up. Have had it switched off since spring. Everything was good. I lost a hydroboost and a gearbox this summer and completely covered everything under my hood in power steering fluid. Now its cold in Loserville ky and and i need the grid. My problem is when i turn my switch on the grid stays on all the time. Never shuts off until i flip the switch. I will admit i have not had the time to put it back to factory stock conditions to see what happens. Scan tool shows nothing. Any help/ideas are really appreciated. Thanks guys.

  14. Started by Blueox01,

    Anybody know anything about Xotic performance head studs

  15. Started by jlwelding,

    My plan was to take a screw driver and just collapse one side and pry it out, does anyone see any problem with that? Thanks

  16. Started by Doubletrouble,

    I know Gloshift aren't the best gauges out there, Probably not the most accurate and a budget alternative to better brands such as autometer or isspro. I need to get some gauges on soon, especially fuel pressure. I recently had a lift pump fail and don't want to be surprised like that again. I'll add a FP gauge first and boost and EGT soon to follow. Anyone here run the Gloshift gauges? How good/bad are they? I'm sure they'll do for a while until budget allows upgrades. I don't have any big mods, mainly stock truck with plans on bigger injectors and boost elbow this spring or summer to have a bit more pulling power to tow our 36' 5th wheel.

  17. Started by Silver_O1_Dually,

    I have an 01 3500 HO i just replaced about every sensor n the truck along with the grounding mods and alternator mods. The truck is breaking up bad through the whole RPM range. it does puff white and black smoke from the exhaust. I just resolved an issue with my AirDog loosing ground and cutting out. i have the following codes. P0230 P0254 P0370 P1690 What route should i go next?

  18. Started by Wesley6842,

    So I was on here a little while back on the topic of swapping a 98.5 motor in an 02 truck and with all the headache surrounding it i had found a good deal on an 01 with low miles and was just curious if it just needed a map sensor adapter to work and if they were a direct swap unlike the older engines with the crank sensor

  19. Started by YeaImDylan,

    Hey all, if any of you saw my fuel in oil post, I'm planning to upgrade my injectors a tad bit. Planning to go with 150s from 125s and then I'll be done adding power to the truck unless I come across a lot of money lol. I'm debating on going "cheap" and getting 7x010 VCO from DAP. If I got this route, should I just do the remans or do I get the new Bosch bodies? What's the biggest difference in these injectors when it comes to brand? They all seem to be Bosch injectors with bigger holes... So I wonder why buy one that is more expensive? Other brand I'm looking at is Infinite, 1BadVP44 sells them and TJ seems to love their injectors. There's a chance my injectors are fine …

  20. Started by wil440,

    My truck on longer journeys usually has my trailer hooked up and I lock out OD, everything has been fine also I tend to lockout OD around here also as it means the convertor is locked for much longer so revs down and MPG up, it can trundle along just over our lowest built up area speed limit of 30 just nice, pretty flat here. Yesterday I went to fit a turbo boost sensor on a Volvo loading shovel, already visited to diagnose and was 100% sure so no need for my trailer just the part and a 8mm ratchet spanner and a small screwdriver Noticed the change from 3rd to 4th was harsh and not what it usually is bearing in mind It may not have done that upshift for a…