2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I was crossing the Hudson River and noticed I was down to an 8th of a tank, I soon would be headed off the beaten track and had 2 choices to get fuel after I crossed the bridge. I have Citgo run by some Moolah Jihadists, or BP run by some 2nd and 3rd generation Arab Americans, so I picked BP. I fuelled up, then I went into pay, I asked how is business as BP now a days, he said we are going back to Mobil in 2 weeks if that answers your question. He said it is not our fault. I replied it was just a bad accident, nothing no one can do about it now, take care.

Ok so I did the radiator flush the other day and also replace the thermostat . And today when I was making the crankcase breather I saw a few drops of antifreeze on one of the bars of the suspension right below the belt ,so I cleaned it and took it of to pick up the fuel sending unit and when I came back I took a look at it and saw the same drops I follow the leak and it looks like is coming out from the gear cover and like a small hole thats above were the oil pan and the block meets ,thats were I think is coming is there a particular place they leak need some help please?

So guys I havent been on here in long time. Did some searching through the forums for some info about the quickest way to replace that rear crank seal. I can see from the Service manual there are two ways of doing it, one is to remove the transmission (in my case a nv5600 and transfer case) all the way down to the bell housing and do it from there. The second method is to remove the bell housing completely (8 bolts) and then pull the crank shaft oil retainer. Im thinking I need to do the second method since Im in need of a new pan gasket as well. Little extra time involved since I would have to remove the starter and misc parts, but I think it would be worth it since…

Left yesterday to go get a new trailer. And I'm not sure if this is a tuner issue or a truck issue. Codes on truck are for ABS only. When the truck is running 70 at 2k rpm with XZT on the 75hp mode it'll surge. I can drive it out with my foot and it'll go away below 1800rpm and above 2300 rpm. When cruise control is set it doesn't do it at all. When set to MPG mode it does it light surge and still have to play with throttle or set cruise to get rid of it. With switch to off its hard to tell when it surges. Now, with the trailer behind it and the switch to 75hp position, it surges when I'm going down a grade and try to keep my foo…

Does anyone know where to get 15w40 CI-4 without buying amsoil? I use amsoil in my 03 but I want to stick with conventional in my 98. I would love to find some valvoline premium blue classic and have emailed valvoline with no reply. I know im eventually going to probably have to switch to CJ-4 (or amsoil) but I want to put it off as long as I can.

Hey gang can we help this new family member out with not only his truck but how to use the forum too. First thing I typically ask for is error codes (using a OBDII reader) and fuel pressure (idle to WOT at highway speeds).

Mike, would you happen to have the lube properties of 50/50 fuel, which was 'cut' with a benzene xylene 'anti cloud/jel' product?

Hey guys could use some input if you have the time. My 02 has a 1/2 inch braided line with a 90 elbow coming off of the ip going to the reservoir. I have an edge J/A but am having a hard time understanding how to make the banjo bolt or an equivalent work with the edge. I had a short and now I think my ECM is acting weird and my lift pump is intermitent when turned on and a different idle . Any help would be great..., thanks in advance.

Hi GuysNew to the forum and relatively new to cummins and diesels all together. I have a 2002 3500 and have been having trouble witht the starter lately........I think.I searched the forum and think i may have found the problem but wanted to double check and make sure i am on the right track.Anyways, for the last month or month and a half i have been randomly getting a single click when i attempt to start my truck. At first it would only do it once or twice then start up. After a few times of this i popped the hood and noticed i had a loose batter connection with some corrosion so i cleaned it up and tightened it and it was better for a little while. it would be fine for …

Well, joined the forum back in Nov... had been working on plotting out our tune up/ preventative & maintenance plans and before we got anywhere within driving the truck an additional 500 miles at most we have MAJOR ISSUES... needless to say we have have the truck parked in the driveway since we put new tires on it at the end of November, we have had to start it a few times to move it for snow removal and driveway access issues... So here goes the saga of problems... this fall we noticed that we were having issues with the truck shifting around 45 mph... after much reading on this forum, I do believe that it probably is the same torque lock/ converter issue that m…

Assuming there are 6 bolts to mount the manifold to the block ? If so - I am missing one ....... where do I get another - local parts store carry ? thanks ---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ---------- ok answer my own dumb question - yes it does and yes I am missing napa doesn't have .... checking o'reilly's

Hi, Do not want to wrongly blame ECM much less buy one needlessly. Lot of articles and Truckers say ECM’s rarely go bad. So, one last sanity check to be sure. My understanding is as follows: - WTS should “always” illuminate immediately after switch is turned on. (I’m told it indicates computer has “booted” up.) - Once WTS goes off, I should “always” be able to bump engine and hear LIFT pump cycle for 25s. Q1. Should the above events take place every single time? What I know: Batteries are good. Charged and tested with DEAD Load tester. Alternator is charging. Noise is .03-.04 max. (Not perfect, but don’t be…

Hello, So I went to run an errand with my 01 earlier after washing it and it fell on its face while driving down my street. Had a random speed sensor code that I cleared, but it wouldn't shut off even with the key pulled. I'm assuming it's the VP but I'm trying to find different opinions on the matter. I let it sit for 30 minutes and started it back up no problem. Everything came back to life. Turned it off again and re started it 20 minutes later and everything is fine. The pump is barely 2 years old and I'm reading 15 psi on my FASS. Any help would be appreciated.

Alright guys stupid question I got a set of 150 nozzles brand new the other day in a trade... my question is if I buy some new stock injectors and swapped nozzles would I still have to have them pop tested ......? my local injector shop charges a insane amount of cash to pop and shim injectors... just curious

Has anyone installed one of these? Will this actually prevent gelling say at deep negative temps? My fuel froze last year at -30 even with fuel treatment. At those temps isn't there the chance that the fuel would gel before the lift pump? I would install if it would actually prevent the gelling, but I figure there is a point below freezing where it will not matter.

I am adding the link in from CF. Nothing against CF or the guys helping there, just feel that the knowledge of Mopar Man himself and the guys here is incredible as well as the resources provided by the site here. https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/fluctuating-idle.2528169/#post-29295619 I have 99, 5 Speed, 4WD, CCLB, Motor was rebuilt at 206k, currently at 215k, New FASS Titanium Signature 165, New RV275's, VP is a different story, will mention below. No tunes. Motor ran good in Montana and California throughout the winter. Came to California throughout the virus and since started finding problems. Keep in mind the temp differences…

ok fellas.. ... i searched for kick down threads and i would think there be alot of threads but no... My main issue is i have to kick the overdrive out to jump out of my lane and pass a car. or getting on an onramp once i pick up speed it shifts to soon unless im really pedal to metal. so when its on the last gear in overdrive there is no going back. I dont like hot rodding all over the place but if i want to pass a little honda its embarassing sometimes.. just put in 100 hp injectors, adjusted bands at trans... replaced intercooler boots.... its got power just not going very far at 1100 rpm... thnx guys for ur help

Lost my Speedometer the other day and started troubleshooting. Only to find the abs ring is toast and the pinion gear had chipped and caused all the damage. The rearend was rebuilt 3years ago and has 36k on it. Any my idea what would cause this to happen? Poor install? Poor Material? I only haul 7k for 6 to 8,000 miles a year.

A few days ago I started having starting issues. It use to barely even turn a full turn before she crunk up. Then a few days ago she started turning over several times as if the batteries were going low. Once she started my voltage guage quickly rose back up to 14+ volts and ran perfect. Yesterday she finally decided she didn't want to start and would only spin over. I hooked my charger up to them and let them charge for a little while and still the same just spun a little quicker. Thought I may not be getting any fuel so I cracked an injector line 3&5 and no fuel came out but filter bowl was slap full. Thinking it had to be a voltage issue I pulled the batteries brou…

can anyone tell me the correct torque spec for intake & exhaust valve rockers.on a 24 valve 2nd Gen. " its a 10mm bolt,Installing new DDP 40HP. Injectors and I loosened 2 before i figured out i did not have too do to remove injectors..