2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

While my Quad was down and I was running around on the stock tuning, I noticed I couldn't build more than 20psi of boost or exceed 900* on the EGT gauge. I figured the stock turbo was waste gated to 20psi and that's why it didn't make more. I know the S300 will make 30+, does the truck defuel when it senses the boost level to keep it from rising?

Started my truck on site the other day to come home and within a minute there's a puddle of coolant on the floor, rad leaking on the drivers side crimped edge, luckily it stops as it gets warm so still able to use the truck, I've been looking for a radiator and ouch ! Several options Rock is $422 to my door for a standard rad with crimped tanks, guess it's chinese this is for a purchase price of just over $100 Mishimoto on ebag $1151 to my door, no crimped tanks and MIUSA, purchase price is $750 Other option is I do have a new old stock Northern Radiator ally rad with the inlet/outlet on the correct sides but no trans cooler, would need …

ok here we go, I completed my swap about a year ago and everything worked great for about 9 months. all of the sudden one day im driving down the road and the van just stops!. it was like someone reached over and shut the thing off. after getting it towed home i followed the diagnostic procedure for the vp44 and after hooking power and ground directly to it i found that it was indeed dead and would not fire. so simple enough i order a new (reman) vp from a local parts dealer and when it shows up im immediately put off by it. it had silicone caked on the harness where it goes into the psg and had dirty finger prints as well as dirty hash marks where the fasteners hold…

Hello, I have an 01 24v 4x4. I took it on a 200 miles round trip last week. Within 10 miles of the destination I heard a noticeable loud squeal/screech intermediately at around 50 mph. I thought is could be my front pumpkin running low due to a drivers side leak, filled it up and drove home. On way home the noise was still in and out, towards the end it started to become more constant but only above 2-3rd gear. Now when I drive its is constant above 2nd gear at pretty much any speed. It sounds like it could be from the transmission but I was thinking more wheel bearing/ joint. I will jack up rear and update tomorrow. What I have done New driver/passenger side w…

Hi Everyone, I've been lurking on here for a while and I finally ran into an issue that I haven't been able to solve using previous forums. I put a new crank position sensor in a few months ago after I had the truck not start on me at the dump. I got it going with some spray I know it's not good to do, but I disconnected the power to the grid heater had my wife crank while I squirted into the turbo. The truck ran great for three months or so when it developed a random hiccup. This brief hesitation is totally random. Last summer I put on a Fass fuel system with a homebrew drawstraw and a Special X VP44 from Blue Chip. I don't think that this is a fuelin…

Have you ever had the throttle linkage where the APPS is connected to, ever get stuck (frozen) in -4° weather? Mine did last night at my friend's house. His house is 3 miles away from mine. I started out in 2nd gear and couldn't push the pedal down because the linkage was stuck at idle. But halfway between his house and home I was able to get it to move a little which brought me up to 2,300 rpm, so I shifted into 3rd gear and drove home at that rpm. When I got it in my shop within a couple minutes it thawed out and was normal again. I wonder if it did it because my pickup doesn't have the plastic APPS cover on it? I have a brand new T…

Hi guys, first post! I have a 2000 Ram 2500 5 speed. Runs great for the first 5 minutes in the mornings then she's having what I would say a miss at idle and rpm Fluctuating between 800 to 1000rpm. Once I hit the throttle the rpms stay at about 1100 and will not come down until it's in gear. Also when I drive it, and coming to a stop, the idle is high and makes it harder to stop. I had a map sensor code and got that cleared. I changed injectors (oem) thinking that was the issue but nope still there and does the same thing. I did replace crank & cam sensors. (I was playing the guessing game) I did notice when unplugging the cam sensor that no check engine …

My 2000 1Tn, 4wd, auto with 340K just started giving me the above engine code. Looking it up, it stands for TURBOCHARGER BYPASS VALVE OPEN. Does anyone have experience addressing this problem? Where do I start to identify where the problem is? (Please don't say "Turbocharger" ) Is this likely a minor problem (adjustment or small part replacement) or is this likely a major problem (replacement of the turbo)? What are the driving symptoms of this problem code? The truck starts and seems to drive OK even with this check engine light on. (I am not getting any other stored OBDII codes.) Any help on how to address the problem would be appreciated. To Moparma…

I purchased a set of 75 hp injectors the DDP-ISB75 I don't know how that relates to the tunning of the Quadzilla adrenalin. are they a 7.010 7.012 or something else? Any guidance would be appreciated as I am new to the tunning world.

Replaced wheel bearing, seals, calipers and pads and thought while I'm there I'll replace pinion bearing and seal. It is froze on there, we pryed on it, hit shaft with dead blow hammer and we just put the seal in and and said run it. Any tips on getting it out short of stripping rear end?

Hey guys, So I'm back to work after a knee injury, and I walked out of Wawa and saw green coolant under the truck. After some quick diagnosis I determined the radiator is leaking from the crimp joint on the driver's side. I know a new radiator is in my future, but what about the rest of the Cooling System. I'm talking about the baby hoses on the passenger side that run under the turbo charger, the heat exchanger etc. I'm not 100% sure how far I want to go, but I have a water pump on the shelf, and a new belt. I might as well swap out other stuff that looks like it will be on its way. When I got the truck the coolant we…

My 02 dully is a cab and chassis, I am able to get to the in tank module/fuel pump. I was planning to install a Airdog 150 with draw straw then I saw the Airdog Fuel Module, what is involved here? And how is my fuel gauge to work if I pull out old pump. In other words I havent a clue.

I looked under axles and couldnt find torque for rear wheel bearings.They werent just real tight coming off, is it just snugged up?

Pump has failed due to in tank pump. I'm in process of rebuilding a lot on this new to me truck. Back when I replaced all the old stock stuff on my old truck I went with the Bluechip pump and have had no problems at all for a good 10 years now. Just checking the opinions out there on who may have the best pump for the money or what are your thoughts. Thanks

I've got a forum member and local client here at the house with his Dodge Cummins having new +50 HP injectors, new AirDog 150 installed, and a big line kit. Now what I want to focus on here is my custom AirDog install and what it took to make it happen. On short bed trucks, the fuel tank is more forward toward the transfer case. There is not enough room for the AirDog to mount on the inside of the frame. Even on the outside of the frame is really limited using the supplied bracket and fittings. I chucked the whole idea out and started over, now thinking custom install. I had to call back to @dieselautopower and get the old school JIC fittings and have them as 90* elbows, …

So I did the wt ground mod on my truck, and also decided to clean up the spaghetti that was on my battery terminals for all my accessories. I wired in two battery bus terminals, and ran all my accessories to them(including the quadzilla module), and ran the power to the positive off the old alternator post on the pdc. Well, that was a mistake because my stupid self didn't crimp the terminal good enough for the wire that runs from the battery positive post to the pdc. It arced inside the connector, and shut the whole truck down. I fixed it right away, but it dumped the programming on my quadzilla. I managed to reflash it, but now it doesn't read the map sensor, and the tru…

If anyone is near louisville ky i. Am cleaning out my garage. I still have parts from a 95 3500 Cummins and other assorted truck parts. FREE ****!!! And if anyone wants an AJC Chow have 2 black males available with all breading rights. Born on 9-11-21.

I have never had my truck give any issues starting. If anything it starts easier/quicker than any diesel I've ever driven. After it sat from Sat eve to Monday afternoon in an uphill position it did not want to start. I pushed in on the clutch and let it roll to a more level surface and this didn't seem to help. Finally after just letting the starter crank for a bit it came to life and drove home without any problems. Little puffs of smoke were coming out while cranking. Any ideas for me to look in to? (Still a stock truck) Some possible things of note: the check engine light is not on but it has come on a few times in the last few months but then w…

I think its in the app's, when you are going through the gears you can feel a fairly sharp miss occasionally. Its irracic almost like a surge, hard to describe. But when you set the cruise its fine. This is a new to me 2002 bones stock straight axle dually with stock exhaust and never been touched motor. 272k Its strong, the gears are like new no slack 6 speed HO. Thanks Did the key trick to check for codes and nothing came up.

Mike. You offered to help me tune my truck. I've been gone for awhile over personal problems. I could really use some help now if you have time. Thanks, Greg. I'm on est.