2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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well the fuse problem i had a few months ago was fixed with a new fuse, temporarily. yesterday on a 300 mile trip i had to replace the fuse 9 times to keep from driving the truck with 0 fuel pressure.. i even ran out of fuses and had to start pulling them from unneeded things in my instrument panel.. well anyways, i bought the truck used and the previous owner did not send in a warranty card, so ill be buying a replacement motor for it. as i said im the 2nd owner, i have never worked with something like this, from what i can tell the motor just bolts onto the mounting bracket and the fuel hose is connected on there.. can someone please list me the st…
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- 13 replies
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Hey guys, I'm removing my VP ahead of time and I'm a little stuck on removing the 1-1/16 bolt on the VP gear. It's on there so tight that when I pull hard enough, it rotates the whole motor. I tried it in neutral and stuck it in 1st gear as well. Is there some simple way to get this nut off that I'm missing? It is a lefty loosey nut correct? lol I need some advice.
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- 2 replies
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Hey everyone. I just need a little guidance on my truck, an '02 2500 QC/LB, H.O. w/ 6-speed. I haven't been driving it much lately, took a job in another state and I'm driving a little Dakota to keep the miles down on my baby. Anyways, I went to start it this weekend after sitting for the better part of 3 months and found the batteries dead. I had the key on long enough for the heater grid to cycle off, and when the voltage didn't come back above about 9 volts I shut the key off and put a trickle charger on the truck for about 14 hours and tried starting it the next morning. It fired, and ran fine for the three-minute heater grid cycle while I moved some items ar…
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- 14 replies
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1. When does the stock programming start to de-fuel at what rpm and/or what boost level? 2. Sorta goes with question one in a sense, but if I am to wind out the gears in my truck (NV5600) to get up to speed, what is the best rpm to shift at and/or not go over when going WOT?
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So I'm getting ready to put in my new pump and really don't want to screw up the keyway. I know putting superglue on the key is recommended, and I'm wanting to do that, but my key is really on the pump shaft pretty firmly. Should I yank it out to superglue it or dab glue on the corner where the key and shaft meet?
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- 10 replies
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Has there been any advances in injector quietness over the ears for VP pump style injectors? In the same topic, do tuners that adjust timing help with engine noise?
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- 6 replies
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I have 4 inch mbrp system and it is loud and drones all day long. I want a quiet muffler that will not effect performance too much. Any ideas?
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- 17 replies
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Took my truck and trailer (trailer rated for 14000kg) and drove 3.5 hours to pick up a backhoe attachment, drove back. Filled up and checked my mileage and was very dissapointed to see the result! 11.6 mpg
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- 28 replies
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New to this web site. Ii am working on a 1999 Dodge 2500, 230,000 miles Leaving work the other day, this past Friday, my truck quit as if the key had bee switched off, hard to start back up but did. Soon after that it happened again. the third time, I just parked it. got it running this past Saturday. ran great for about 6 miles, quit again, didn't start any more after that, I had to get it towed home. Was able to get it started three times yesterday. First time it ran for about 30 seconds then just quit. Secong time with out TPS plugged in, revved up very high and I turned it off very quick. Third time, after plugging TPS back in read just under 15 …
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- 13 replies
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I have an automatic trans so what is the best way to hold the engine from spinning while loosening bolts on the dampner? Changing this weekend since the rubber is supposed to be even, flush to the steel. Mine is mushed out all around and wobbles when running.
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Got in my truck today and noticed immediately that my shifts had gotten softer (47re). Especially the 4-3/3-4 shift anyone know what could cause this?? Thanks
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- 4 replies
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What is your opinion on Radial tires and rotating left and right tires so they are rolling the opposite direction? Or do you thing its best to only rotate front to back same side so the tire always role the same direction?
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- 9 replies
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Well gang... I figure I better get the coolant change before winter. So I desided to pull the radiator and inspect it and was surprised to find the face plugged with mud and dirt... Not greasy grime like stock crankcase vents but just mud on the lower part... So I gave everything a good cleaning... Close up... The radiator... Flushing the block... Appearance of the block currently at 173K The intercooler face. Appearance of the block at 100K... Inside the radiator... Flushing...
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- 12 replies
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anyone know the dimensions of a radiator core on a 99 isb with ac
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I have a leak at my radiator drain. Want to replace the o ring on the drain plug. Anybody happen to know the size of the o ring ? Thanks in advance !!! John
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- 3 replies
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I just notticed this morning after arriving at work that I have a slow drip. I tried tightening the plug but it Will not tighten up enough to stop the drip. I searched it and of course it can't just be a normal frickin screw in plug . Anybody deal with this drain plug before. Thoughts suggestions ? I am at work so don't want to mess with it till I get home. Thanks Rob
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Yup, Friday the 13th and a full moon has struck me... Got the transmission and clutch done went out for a short test drive and came back check for leaks or issues. Sure enough the driver side tank blew out started leaking just above the drain cock. Redneck fix. I cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap. This will allow the pressure to escape the radiator and not build pressure. I made 84 mile test drive and no issues. I've got a replace radiator in Ontario, OR waiting for me. $282 dollars for a replacement radiator. Oh well... Radiator lasted 392k miles and header tank seal failed.
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- 29 replies
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Got my rad out and flushing the system and a new thermo. The hoses dont look to be bad but since I there....... What is a good brand of hoses? I dont like autozone anything. So far Napa has been the better place but they are $$ in my town, but will go there for quailty if needed. Does anyone make silicone hoses for our trucks? --- Update to the previous post... Well found silicone hose kits....Umm yea gonna wait on those. lol http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/accessories/dodge_cummins_silicone_hoses.html http://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-truck-silicone-hoses.html http://www.mrbobsdistributing.com/dodge.htm So what brand in a normal hose? Goody…
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Some might remember me freaking out about my radiator rusting up so fast. Well I can tell you this, don't ever use radiator flush even if it says its ok for aluminum. It might ok for aluminum but it dang sure not good for the rubber seal around the tanks. New radiator 191.00
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- 4 replies
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Started my truck on site the other day to come home and within a minute there's a puddle of coolant on the floor, rad leaking on the drivers side crimped edge, luckily it stops as it gets warm so still able to use the truck, I've been looking for a radiator and ouch ! Several options Rock is $422 to my door for a standard rad with crimped tanks, guess it's chinese this is for a purchase price of just over $100 Mishimoto on ebag $1151 to my door, no crimped tanks and MIUSA, purchase price is $750 Other option is I do have a new old stock Northern Radiator ally rad with the inlet/outlet on the correct sides but no trans cooler, would need …
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- 71 replies
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- 8 followers
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