2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

That sucked.. My arm is all scratched up from givin' the ol' Cummins the 'reach-around' At any rate, the old sender was bad; it stayed at 70psi, even with the engine not running.. So dually was kind enough to send me a spare he had (many, many thanks, dually, btw!) Now, the OP gauge is working properly, and the Edge is now reading oil pressure.. idle, operating temp, is ~55psi, and 2100rpm is 77psi. 184k mi, and due for an oil change.. At any rate, thank you, dually !

Since I kept seeing a on/off P0216 that would come and go, I came across a great deal on a new VP-44 rebuild. Do I have to have my codes cleared or will they clear up on their own? If I dont clear the codes, will my truck not operate as normal??BYW, there is an excellent Youtube guide on how to remove and install a VP-44 pump.

Hey guys. 2001 2500 24v 6speed manual. Always has started perfect and fast. I noticed a very loose wire on the starter yesterday (the smaller wire). I was going to pull the wire off, strip it down a little then reinstall it to get a better connection. I wasnt thinking when I first got under it with pliers to loosen the nut. I must of touched something together because I got a spark and a loud noise. Almost like it tried to turn over. Disconnected the batteries so that wouldn't happen again. Pulled the wire off, stripped it down to good wire, wound it around the grounding post and tightened a nut down on it. Reattached the batteries, tur…

Replaced the power steering pump an all the pressure lines, Now my vacuum pump is dripping steadily. looks like I have to pull it all over again. Any helpfull tips

Hello, I replaced my steering box and pump last night (Both bought through NAPA reman since I’m broke and get a discount through work) and hooked everything up as it was before. I then had the front tires off the ground and turned the tires back and forth about 20 times. Then started the truck and did the same thing. Everything felt smooth so I put the truck on the ground and turned the steering wheel and everything seemed fine. I went to back out the driveway and as soon as I hit my brakes I lost everything. So I muscled the truck around the block and back into the driveway. (Its 2am by this point) So this morning I jacked up the truck and proceeded to do the same thing …

I bought 6 new Bosch RV275 injectors one year ago (the price was right - $425 for the set) and finally installed them last Friday. The original injectors operated for 303,000 miles and had never been removed. They were still performing well – as in smooth idle, good power, and good fuel economy. I didn’t want to push a good thing too far. The job went smoothly with the help of this site. All of the old injector tips were clean considering the miles and years on them. I did notice however, that there is a black coating of something kind of oily / powdery (not sure what it is) in the intake area just below the grid heaters. It is not present in t…

Well as I was crawling under the truck I noticed the straight pipe was looking rather rotten and full of small holes. So I now replaced it with a fresh piece of pipe and no longer have to worry about that. What was amazing is the clamp came off good and was totally re-usable. I didn't break them or gall up the threads. I chased he threads with a nut and anti-seized them again and back on the pipe they went. 11 year old clamps and still going.

I just replaced my injection pump and lift pump. I put a factory replacement raptor lift pump on. After bleeding all the lines the truck will start and run fine. Once you turn the truck off it will start and run for 5-10 second and shut off. After that it will not start back until you bleed the injectors again. Please help.

Truck is an '00 2wd auto with 229k, I just drove it this afternoon to go pick up a replacement water pump because I noticed water leaking out the pee hole this morning. Got home, shut it off, and let it cool for a while, then pulled the old WP off and used the water hose to flush the radiator and the block. Got everything buttoned back up, put the belt on, filled it up and hit the key, and it turned part of a revolution then stopped. Hit the key again, and the same thing happened, but this time the check gages light/tone came on, because one of my batteries is weak and it doesn't like cold cranking. So before I drag the jump box out, I think to check if the water pump i…

Is there a known brand of alternator that produces low ac current for our trucks?

Well I'm getting tired of my fuel gauge reading 3/4 tank with 300 miles on the clock... Its been acting up for some time but getting worse as half tank is about as far as it will ever get to. If this was a true representation of some amazing fuel mileage then I'd feel a bit different.....but sadly its not. So I guess I'll drop the tank, or lift the bed, and see whats up... I'm thinking the fuel sending unit on the module is toast. I see Geno's sells them but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on who else does? Just for reference, the module is stock because I've never needed to modify the fuel module system. Most video's and informa…

Just wondering if anyone knows if any of the wiring harness needs to be replaced when switching from an auto PCM to a manual PCM?

Don't the 3rd generation trucks have a 6-speed (better) automatic trany than the 2nd gens? Can it be mated with a 2nd gen 5.9? What are the issues? Thanks

I'm wondering if there would be any issue with replacing the whole "T" line assembly with 2 barbed banjo fittings (maintaining the stock check valve bolt at the VP44) and 3/8 3 way barbed T fitting and some 3/8 fuel hose. I bent my assembly pretty good when I pulled the head (forgot to unbolt the line bracket at the head when I pulled it), and I think I'm getting air in the system, as it now takes about 15 seconds to start in the morning. This is different from the barely touching the key I had before pulling the head. To replace the whole assembly from Cummins appears to be about $130, and you are still dealing with the crummy hard-line and rubber washer setup.

So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

When replacing the apps on a 2002 once installed does the apps need to be adjusted?Thanks in advance for your help!

Ok this is my first time posting here so if I'm missing something please let me know. I'm relatively new to the diesel world but have read multiple posts on here as well as other sites about replacing a head gasket. My first question is do you need to resurface the block in addition to the head when doing a hg replacement on these 24v cummins? Also Is it common for the head to be cracked at 200k This is my dd and I noticed that I am leaking oil right where the head and block meet. I cleaned it up and drove it some more and it definitely looks like it is leaking from the head gasket. I would need to replace it during a weekend and …

Can someone tell me what size socket the pinion nut is on a 98.5 Dana 80 is? I have tried a 1 13/16 and it is a hair small and a 1 7/8 will not fit inside the yoke without grinding the outside of the socket. I am thinking it is metric? Maybe 47mm? Odd size not in most sets. Rick

I have an NP 241 DHD that has 2 cracks in the back of the case. All i am seeing for sale is NP 241 DLDs. Does anyone know if that back of the cases are interchangeable? Thanks Matt

Hey guys, So I'm back to work after a knee injury, and I walked out of Wawa and saw green coolant under the truck. After some quick diagnosis I determined the radiator is leaking from the crimp joint on the driver's side. I know a new radiator is in my future, but what about the rest of the Cooling System. I'm talking about the baby hoses on the passenger side that run under the turbo charger, the heat exchanger etc. I'm not 100% sure how far I want to go, but I have a water pump on the shelf, and a new belt. I might as well swap out other stuff that looks like it will be on its way. When I got the truck the coolant we…