2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello All, I have been to this site many many times. It is a great site, and the search functions work great. However, now I am in need of help, and the search function did not tell me much. So here is my story.I drive a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 with the 5 speed manual. An edge EZ is my only known mod (I bought the truck when it had 250,000 on it), I added fuel pressure and boost gauges (based on opinions from this site). 260,000 miles. I am moving my wife, 10 month old, 2 dogs, and a cat 1900 miles from MT to PA for a job, so I got my trusty dodge loaded up and am hauling a 16 ft flatbed loaded to the gills with all my worldly possessions. I am driving down the …

I had an issue where my truck wouldn't move when put into gear until it warmed up. Someone here said it was a seal or pump. Well, I had it rebuilt and got a good deal ($850) from an in-law. After a couple of weeks, the problem is back. I usually warm up the engine so it hasn't bothered me especially since it works fine once warm. The question is whether or not it will damage the transmission as long as I warm it up? I'm reluctant to take it back since I got such a good deal.

Hello, i am a brand new owner of my 1st Dodge truck, Ita a 1999 2500 diesel, and i am very excited, looking for any and all sugestions on fuel ecomoney and the best general preformance tools avalable, i have alot of automotive experience so i hope i can be some help as wellTxnotny

Hey guys you know how or where I can get wiring harness for a Edge Comp for a 2002 Cummins. I have the unit but the wiring harness was misplaced while moving.

On the way into work my check engine light came on then turned off and I saw that the alternator voltage was low, around 12.5v or so. I tested it running at work and it was about ~12.5v. I then noticed that the positive battery terminal has melted on the cable coming straight from the alternator. Would an alternator going out cause this? Bad connection? Low battery electrolytes Any ideas? The alternator has never been replaced. Thanks!

Today I was heading home from work and when I turn hard left or right the trans acts like it is not in gear, if you let off the throttle and get back on it, it kicks back in. What would cause this? I just put a new rear speed sensor and output sensor on the tail of the trans. i do have a new neutral safety switch to install yet.

I'd like for my Quadzilla to show fuel pressure. Can I tap into one of the three wires I have coming off the sending unit for my ISSPRO fuel gauge? There's an 3 pin plug coming off the sending unit to my gauge and the quad has a corresponding 3 pin plug that matches the ISSPRO sending unit. I wouldn't mind keeping my pillar gauge and having the Iquad showing pressure as well.

i was checking thru some old threads looking to see if anyone had dealt with the problem i am having. i saw a thread that smokey posted to about his cruise back in august. so if your are out there smokey let me know how you fixed it. my cruise light is lit whenever the truck is on and none of the controls function. the controls all seem to be working mechanicaly(easy to push and you canffeel the swithces operating as they have for the past 9 years). i replaced the clockspring while trying to diagnose other problems i had in the past. i even went back and reverse the wires to the controls just in case i had them backwards. no change. the only code i have is P500 and from w…

I posted a question about my fuel gauge reading higher than normal last week. Sounds like the sending unit in the tank is bad. Today my engine temp is reading about 25* low. Pretty simple and cheap to change thermostat, in fact I have one one hand. Then probably looking at the temp sensor in the head. But now I'm becoming skeptical about these two conditions happening at roughly the same time. About a week apart. Engine operating normal it seems. Just wondering if these two conditions could be related in a weird way?

Hey folks, This is my first winter with my Pacbrake. It had run flawlessly until ambient temps got down to around 10 degrees. Then it stopped working on my way home one night. The next morn. after I warmed the truck up for an extended period, it started working again. This cycle went on for a couple of days, then my 30 amp compressor fuse blew. I replaced the 30amp with a 20 amp. ambient temps are now around 32 and she's back to working reliably. My compressor is located by the passenger side battery as directed in the pacbrake instructions. I routed the air intake filter to the firewall behind my Bhaf. I have not yet remote mounted the actuator piston vent that pacb…

Hey ya'll,i am back with an update.:banghead: So after a year of having no symptoms since 1/28/11, i am having symptoms again. Not really sure what is going on. I have not gone thru any of the routine troubleshooting steps just yet. I am back for some more schooling!!!! So now the situation is that i am having dead pedal above 70 MPH. I can punch the gas on the highway, tranny goes thru its automatic gear shifts, than if i try to accelerate above 70, nothing. --- Update to the previous post... please read other thread!

I have a rapid clicking noise that sounds like a relay coming from behind the glove compartment. It mostly seems to happen when I’m making a right hand turn.

I've just had a vac pump seal kit and a steering pump from Rockauto, arrived in the UK in 3 days so really good service from Rock BUT the vac pump seal kit which is a Dorman 904335 has the most useless main seal in it to the point I'm going to reuse the old one as it is better, good job I didn't remove it from its carrier, the old one has the oil scraper lines in the seal area to move oil away from the lip, the one in the dorman kit is just a sharp lip and some of the lip is malformed, barely see able but oil would find it. £34 and the main seal is going in the bin Mopar kit is not a lot more... my own stupid fault

Hi guys, been a while. I'm having a problem with my truck getting up to temp. Unless I'm towing. But on normal driving edge on 5x5 it stays about 140 degrees. Any thoughts?

Starting back in the beginning of 2023 winter I opted to play with 200 degree Cummins thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins. Now as winter got to the coldest of minus 7 degrees I was happy to keep a warm cab and engine. I watched over the winter time and as I was able to keep temps above 80 degrees in the intake manifold (IAT) I noticed an improvement in MPGs because cold air does rob the engine of ignition quality and more heat energy is not wasted to the coolant jacket. Now fast forward to now. I made a trip to Lewiston ID for monthly supplies and food. Still running a 200 degree thermostat in 90 degree weather. This is a Gates Thermostat and seems to hold steady …

I just had to replace a pressure sending switch and thought I would share the differences. The old dirty one is from a 3500 I am working on. The other is one I ordered through Amazon that crossed referenced with the stock one, but Wow what a difference! It seems to work like the old one when I first bought it in 02 though. Lol I know some of you are going to say, “put a mechanical gauge in it”. Rest assure I intend to, but it is a waste unfortunately because none of my employees will watch gauges. Lol This is why I like the stock dash gauge because at least they hear the chime going off and then see the indicator light on the dash. Then they just complain to me the s…

I am relatively new to the forum but have heard of Moparman and used his wiring maps for a while. They are very useful. Very good job. My throttle surging issues are caused by varying voltages to, and subsequently from, the APPS. I have the same issues with the alternator and/or PCM disconnected. The issues are as follows: -Truck starts right up but idles erratically -engine idles fine with ECM data lines disconnected from VP44 (wires removed from connector) -engine idles fine with APPS disconnected (no fluctuations in incoming voltages) -40 HZ (or thereabouts) "signal" in power and ground with and without alternator (oscilloscope screenshots ava…

Not too worried in fact I kind of like it but I'm wondering what causes my problem. My TC doesn't unlock when I let off the throttle. Go on the brakes and it works OK. when it gets down to about 20mph (in 3rd) it unlocks by itself and sometimes if I blip the throttle it will unlock. It's like having a free ATS Copilot. It did this awhile ago and then cleared up for a year and now it's back. Shifts fine otherwise. I'm thinking APPS or something throttle related. Any idea's?

Kind of an odd issue........ Went to start the truck, was kind of cold, ran the grids and truck started no problem. Drove a short distance (@1 mile), the engine stumbled just a bit (maybe 1/2 second), and check engine light lit, then it ran normally. Ran a couple miles, stopped and scanned it, threw a code for the crank sensor (I think it was 0336). Erased it and restarted the truck, drove @6 hours with no issues. Couple days later, another cold start, moved the truck maybe 150 feet and shut it off to load up. Restarted it (no grids this time), a short stumble and got a check engine light. Moved it maybe 200 feet, shut it off, fueled up. Scanned it, same code, cleare…

I believe I am having issues with my 6 speed manual... i have a good size rear main seal leak... 6 speed manual... lately i've noticed.. my fuel milage slipping... but it gets better after about 2 or 3 hours of hauling a medium load.... i don't get it...ill be towing a trailer and albeit i know 6s isn't a pulling gear after about 1900 rmps it will pull okay when you ask it too... but not the first 2 or 3 hours of my voyage... anyhow... i've had a few back yard guys look at my truck and they are all suggesting... im getting oil from my rear main seal to my clutch??? Is that even possible? Truck has been a hwy truck since 50000 km where i bought used ... back then it had a…