2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

my cam sensor read 0 all time on my snap on scaner should i replace it. its 38 bucks truck runs great 01 cummins HO 6 speed

Alright guys, I replaced my lift pump a couple of weeks ago with an Air Dog 100, installed the draw straw V, and big line kit. Everything was going well and I had 16.5 PSI at idle, 13.5 at wide open throttle, consistantly. This evening I was running just below a 1/4 tank and stopped and filled up. Started the truck and had 16.5 psi. I drove 24 miles home and watched the fuel pressure drop slowly to 5 psi by the time I got home. The truck is running fine, and I see no fuel leaks under the truck. My first thought is "bad fuel" and the filters are clogging. I have an extra set of filters for the Air Dog and the factory filter which I plumbed in with the Air Dog. My fi…

I'm thinking I better start looking into a clutch for my truck, and I read Mike you have the Southbend Con OFE. I'm looking at this site here in Canada and wondering did they change it that it's not called the same anymore? All I see close is the OFEK but don't want to get the wrong set up when I order. My truck a daily driver HO with the Nv5600 6spd. Have the Edge with attitude and want something that wont slip but good for daily running. Best to go clutch/pressure plate/flywheel when buying? http://www.peakdieselperformance.com/Dodge_Clutch_South_Bend_Clutch.html

my fuel PSI is 15 Idle 11-13 WOT..meaning on a hard pull it may pull to 11psi for 2-seconds if i get on the pedal hard like to pass something then it snaps to 13psi..I lost a 1-2lbs when i replaced my Fuel/Water seperator w/ the AirDog updated one, .."which is a Luber-Finer' FILTER and i was able to get the # for from "STANDARD LABATORIES" If any one wants it

has a adrenaline and new vp44 fuel pressure is good but it dont fuel like it should ive asked a few diesl shops and no body can tell me what to look for :banghead: so does any one have any info that could help

So, I have been toying with the idea of getting the Dyna-Trac free spin hub kit as I hate non-serviceable wheel bearings, but 2Gs is alot of dough for the conversion. Do you guys think the hub conversion is worth the dough on a truck with 245k on it? I'm probably not going to buy them, just curious to see what others opinions are.

Well I am soon to be rebuilding the trans in my truck. I have rebuilt a couple of NV4500s and a few other manuals but never a NV5600. I keep hearing how the 5600s are hard to rebuild but I don't quite understand why. Anyone want to clue me into why they are so hard to rebuild? And please don't try to tell me I need 100T press to press the gears off. That has got to be the biggest load of crap I have heard about these transmissions. You may have the occasional trans that needs a little extra help but otherwise a 25T should have no trouble getting the job done.

it have to really shorten a story here. pulled my rv for the first time in a while. pulled it over the bluridge mountains at 22,700 total. notice on filllup that i had oil on the rv and the under carridge of the truck. check my oil and i have an extra quart in the crank case. figure i have a leaky injector or 2. been wanting some rv 275's for a while and ordered a set from DAP. GREAT PRICE AT $269 + $100 core. drove to my daughters house to install and sprung a coolant leak just before arriving. spent the day installing the rv's and then dealt with the coolant leak. from the best i could tell it was coming from the water pump. could not see it well enough to tell for sur…

ok about to pull the transmission again ....i think i broke third gear ....looking to see if anyone has any experience in rebuilding a nv4500? i figure that its got to b cheaper than a rebuilt one ...best price i have gotten so far is $3400......also sorry for the long time between posts but between the army and the new job at kenworth truck company I havent had much spare time till now......thanks alot gang

I'm new here so I would like to say hello to everyone first. Looks like a good forum.I have tried two different OEM lift pumps and still getting very slow to climb fuel pressures on start ups. It'll stay at 4 psi for a few seconds then climbs slow to 10. I wait a few more seconds and it climbs only to 11. I used to always have 14 and went up right away after start ups. With my 1/2 inch lines and big draw straw it would always stay on 14 even with the camper on at WOT. I would like to wire the LP to the battery without the truck running for a test to see if the pressure climbs fast like it used to. If I turn on the key to activate the gauge will it send a code? T…

O.K.... Trans. starting acting weired, 3-4th gear hunt last week. i recalibrated the APPS and it fixed it, then Last Night coming down the Parkway cruising at 70MPH it started what felt like either jumping out of 4th Gear or TQ unlocking only for a split second, I MEAN IT WOULD ONLY DO IT SEAM LIKE WHEN I WOULD VERY SLIGHTLY DECREASE PRESSURE ON THE PEDAL. It would only last for a split second...... Done the key trick this morning and got "122 code But here's the thing, I just replaced the APPS with TIMBOS 8-months ago. I remember that at first when i put the volt meter on it following Tims instructions on adjusting free travel my orginal voltage was way high over w…

whats a good brand to buy ? I am in need of the sensor alone there is a gauge and all in the truck just my old sensor on the trans ( oil pan ) got a rusted tip and wire would not stay on there long enough that is a single wire sensor the other option is an aftermarket oil pan but does any of them come pre drilled for a temp sensor ?

With the help from others on a different web site, I'm almost convinced that I need a new injector pump. Have a good lift pump with 22 psi pressure. Recently (today) cracked the fuel lines going to injectors 1, 3, & 4 and got a little bit of fuel. The front line had quite a bit of bubbles. Also have a 1688 code stating that the injector pump controller manfunctioned. Only this evening did I replace the fuel filter. Do I need to bleed it? Does it take long for the fuel to flow properly after replacing the filter if I don't. And finally, what's your take on a used injector pump (money's tight right now and elk season's only a month away)? Thanks

I have "leaky line syndrome" you know where the connectors hold the lines from rubbing each other along the transmission. They have started to rust and are beginning to drip. I called the Dodge dealer and the three lines cost $232.78 not including the little clips (rust starters) that are $3 each. The price didn't sound too hateful but I was wondering if there is another source that has lines with a port for the transmission temperature gauge that I am going to install?I called Geno's who sells them for the older trucks but not the 02. They recommended Goerend Transmissions who said they order them from Dodge and would have to charge shipping on top of that. No good.…

Has anyone ever adjusted the bands on the trans, if so can you notice any diffrence ?2001 dodge 2500 5.9 cummins 225,000 miles

Could someone give me a little info on 0232? What and where to start? Is this due to bad ECM?

Figured I would throw this out there. I have had a funny delayed almost slipping type 2-3 shift the past few months and have been giving the 02 a front to rear service and check over and tune up. I pulled the tranny pan and the last couple times it has been loaded with metal and friction material. been that way the last 3 times actually so I have been waiting for the death of it but it keeps hanging in there with 131K of abuse.Back to the story well I adjusted the rear band all was ok there put pan on filled with new amsoil and then went about the PITA front band adjustment which is when I figured out where all the material is coming from. I adjust it every 30K or so when…

Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come …

tried to adjust my valves today and could not turn the engine using the altenator bolt. i turned it both ways and it slipped either way. i clouldnt figure out a way to put more tension on it with the tools at hand and dont own a barring tool. any of yall ever done it a differant way?

I am going to be changing my Exhaust Manifold in my 99 Cummins and not sure what to torque the bolts at. I was trying to search and came up with 23, 32 and 44 so I have no idea what it should be for a 99. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You