2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My cruise started acting up a while ago. I would set it but it seemed like it wasn't working but if I hit accel a bunch of times it would start to hold. After a while it didn't work at all and when I had time to look at it I found a broken vac line. I fixed that and now I set it and it just pulls it to WOT Any ideas for me? And could someone explain how the thing works?

Hello all. Well I have been getting the turbo over boost code lately my wastegate is not rusted up. I tested to day with low air pressure. All I could hear was air hissing. It was coming from the actuators head. reached back and felt it. What do you guys suggest I replace with? Factory HX35 wastegate, turbo masters kit, banks big head or BD. I have no fueling boxes just stock truck with airdog 100 big line kit 5" exhaust. So blocking the wastegate would not work for me in this situation.Thanks guys,John

I have a '01 Dodge Cummins 4x4 automatic -truck had to go into the shop...being told that the wiring harness has melted together and we need a complete new one to the tune of 1065.00 plus 450.00 labor. It was flashing an ECM code and surging while driving which was the main reason it was taken in. Has anyone else had this happen or know why it might happen, or has anyone had to replace their wiring harness before?

I got one of Winslow's high idle boxes and the truck is awefull picky of when it will let it work. I tested the box with an ohm meter as per Winslow's instructions and it works correctly so I have ruled that out. Soemtimes the truck will start to idle up and then get to about 1000 rpm and just drop back off to 800 or so. Other times it will not idle up at all, even when its in the teens outside it should idle up on its own. The otherday I put the transmission in neutral it it idle'd up right so I thought it was the park switch but then the next day it idle'd up in park. I drove around the pasture loading up round horse panels and put it in park and hit the high idle switc…

Why are there two apps codes for low voltage? 0121 and 0122

Okay guys my next purchase are going to be batteries.... Exciting I know but they are getting weak enough that if I don't have the truck plugged in, the grids pull them down too much and the starter won't spin fast enough to start the truck... Had this happen to me the other day which sucked b/c the folks and I were going to go into town to shop/eat. My question is, what do you guys recommend for batteries? I've had decent luck with Die Hards but I'm not 100% sold on them in my '75 Chevy. I'm thinking about Autozone Duralast Gold top b/c they are well priced and easy to get. Plus they've got a good warranty and I've had great luck with them in my '71 VW and one of the Cum…

Ok guys my question is who is running or had experience with these http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html??? If you are running one whats the install like, op's like, what does the install look like in the cab, etc.? for the price it doesnt look too bad but i would like to hear from you guys.

What's up gang? I've got a simple question for you. What is the maximum reccomended speed for shifting in and out of 4wd? We recently got snow here and some of the roads are covered and some are dry so it's kinda a pita to stop and shift in and out as needed.

I did some tinkering on my truck this afternoon and now it won't start. Got these codes 0123, 1765, 1694. Can someone tell me what they mean or is there a chart somewhere on here that I can look on? The only thing I did that I think could have affected it starting was move the power and ground wires that I had on the battery connections over to the terminals in the PDC. These were power/ground for the Airdog and ground wires for the Suncoast APPS ground; which I wish I'd never done.

Anybody got a turbo timer installed on their truck to prevent from cooking the oil at shutdown? Don't really like having to sit there for a minute or two before shutting her down....or am I the only one doing this?

So it's done it since I've owned the truck, but anyway...Turn the key on: Oil pressure goes to about 40-45psi on the gauge. "Wait a minute.. I haven't even started it.."Stays there, too, after I start it, and drive it. It stays put there, as long as the key is on.. If I unplug the Oil Pressure Switch harness, it goes to zero, so something tells me it's the actual pressure switch?... At the nice price range of $180 (Rock Auto), to $212 at Advance Auto Parts; Auto Zone wants $193 for it.. :nono:Is there something you guys may know about that could be causing this? I mean, something like the 'low oil pressure) TSB, but opposite, obviously.. :)Thanks.

My brakes have been worse than normal lately and with new pads on the front, I knew it had to be the back. My driver side was all sludged with rear end oil so I guess there is a inner seal on the hub leaking.I got my axle out but there is some kind of little lock nut that I need to remove and ive never seen anything like it before. My jeeps never had anything like this full floater and I have never worked on one before so if you have any tips I would greatly appreciate it!

I have looked for info on repairing a 53 block and nothing. I need detail, or let me ask this has anyone ever done it with scucess? I found a motor with 80k and my thought is why cant it be drilled and tapped?

Bad part of this is I use my truck for work "traveling" and I broke it in Indianapolis and live in western Missouri. Has anyone else had this (happen) to them? If so what all did you do to repair it? The stuff I've noticed that is not working on mine is the fuel pump, engine preheat, dome light, the radio, the ABS light comes on and i get a "no buss" message. I realized I had done something wrong when I heard the ABS system making some noise as soon as I had touched the post to the cable. I have found at least one fuse terminal shorted. There is power on both sides and I didn't smell any hot wires at any time.

What do you guys think of this stuff? Those hffr tests or whatever they are kind of go over my head so I'm wondering if someone would take a look at this and tell me what you think of it. http://www.ca40g.com/home.php

I am having a problem with coolant getting into the oil so I am going to assume the headgasket is blown which blows. My oil is starting to get a greenish tint to it and I keep having to top off the radiator. So what kind of damage am I going to be doing if I keep driving the truck as it is? This is my DD as of right now since my car is down at least until next week and it sucks because we are suppose to be getting a lot of snow this weekend into next week. :ahhh:I hate to drive the truck as it is but I really do not have a choice. Sometimes I wonder why I bought this truck as it is causing me more trouble than good so far. All I have done is worked on it ughh! :bang…

OK, I'm finally gonna spend some $$$ and get a cold air intake, high rise intake manifold, and injectors. What I'm wondering is which is best for each. Here is what I was going to buy before asking for suggestions, let me know how good or bad this combination will be. 1. Injectors: DDP 100hp 2. Intake Manifold: CFM 3. Cold Air Intake: S & B The only othe upgrades I currently have is a Edge Juice Box, Air Dog 150, Upgraded Turbo, and 4 inch exhaust. Let me know what you guys think.

Need some help on locating a mass quanity of this plug, does anybody know where to find a supplier for it, it is the same as the map sensor on a 2002 dodge, im looking for the male version of it(same as sensor) here is a pic of the female end. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSWf4nv7FA3qJoTLT2f9XO3HIcF6WZnPIdlwYEOPR3-CmSFFGrT

Last night while going down highway going 70 - 75 my truck started to skip / surge. Watching the tach it would jump a bit 200 - 300 rpm, and felt like the trans was slipping or maybe the TC was. Any ideas on what it could be. A solenoid?

Looks like I will be needing a clutch, getting some chatter in 1st. What do you guys recommend?