2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,278 topics in this forum
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okay first an update on the clutch ....so far so good ..no problems out of the new south bend ..other than it seems a little more nosy than the old clutch ...kinda chattering ......still hard to go into third unless its double clutched.......i also am wondering if any one has heard of exhaust brakes being hard on the engine?....i know they help save service brake ...but if they wear the engine unnecessarily it doesnt seem worth it to me...finally (sorry)...how difficult is a p7100 pump change i had the pump gave to me for free
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Now that it is warming up my truck seems to stall when it is warm. First thing in the morning it is fine but after a 10 to 15 min drive it will stall when put into gear. It also has a bit of a lope after starting when warm. No codes no change in fuel additives. Replaced vp44 2 years ago with no problems after. Any ideas?AkFred
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I got an 01 2500. Want to know what front axal I have?
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Has anybody come up with a way to direct air at vp. When the fan is turning it pulls all the forced air to the right side of eng. I am thinking about some way to direct it on the pump. What yall think, waisting my time or what?I got it, cut a hole in your hood and put a vp scoop on it. I know most of yall are laughing but if you been through as many vps as some of us it is starting to sound pretty good.
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Can the idle speed on a 24 valve 2nd gen cummins be adjusted? If so how? My truck idles at 740-750 rpm, I would like it to idle around 800 rpm so it don't die when shifting into drive. The truck has a Low Stall TC and it is causing the truck to die when shifted into drive. If I hold the rpm to around 800 it don't stall. Does it warm or cold. Yes, fuel pressure is there (17.5), CKP was replaced 15 months ago, IAT and MAP are new, grounds and batt connections are clean and tight, batteries are well charged, alt is putting out 13.58 volts at the batt. See this thread for history: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1584-Problems-Stalling-when-shifting-to-d…
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Well gang... Mopar1973Man is down... I had a air system failure yesterday about Council, ID climbing the grade and passing a RV and heard. BOOM! Psssst.... As I let off the throttle the noise stopped. Get back into the throttle and boost might climb to 5-8 PSI, pyro going like a rocket, lots of black smoke and the noise returns... I stopped in New Meadows, ID for a moment to look and can't see the leak... so I stopped at the hardware store to pickup the stuff to build a boost tester. So I'll be fixing 2 leaks now A/C and boost...
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I am going to start saving for some injectors but don't know much about which ones to choose, I have seen that there are different horse rated ones. I want something that I don't have to change the turbo asoon as I upgrade the injectors, but I also want to have enough power injectors for when I do upgrade the turbo. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks!
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lost injection pump at 129,000, bought special x from blue chip, installed with no problems, fired it up and idled perfect, let it warm up and took for a test drive and it was cutting out at all rpms except at idle. now when i say cutting out it would just die for a milisecond and come right back, perty violently. called chip and he said it is a apps problem cause it doesnt do it at idle, only when the apps goes into closed loop. he suggested i check the connections, i did and they were all good. problem went away i thought until i took it on a 400 mile trip and it did it about 20 times cruising at 75 mph. next day no problem again. about 2 weeks go by and it is back at a…
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So anyways I fired up my rig this morning to go help my buddy put a lift kit on his rig. About a mile from my house the check engine light came on:banghead: it was bugging me all day. Got home and scanned it and it is a p07020. Output speed sensor is what it said. Where is it at and is it an easy fix. Can I get this part at NAPA. ????Thanks in advance.Luke
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well guys iv got a 99 dodge 3500 4x4 and between 40 and 50 and sometimes at 55 to 60 it seems like it is coming in and out of lock-up sometimes it will jump rpms once or it may do it 5 times in a row before it desides to stay locked in. what could be the problem and how can i fix it please it gets on my nerves lol
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My vp is going.I am driving it once in a wile.It surges bad.Today i have dead pedal every 1000 ft.It is giving me 117 and 122.The temp is fine and the apps check out good.( new timbo)Can the vp computer just freak out?The ecm seems fine nothing wierd.Have to park it until i can get new pump.My thinking here is the computer on the vp is trying to get info from the ecm and it does not compute because it is bad. What strange codes did you ever here of with a bad vp.Thanks.
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I have my boots that were torn taken off and waiting for new ones to get here, am I going to hurt anything starting and moving my truck in the yard without the boots on? Getting my truck redy to go for paint next week and need to move it in and out of my building and load it on the float, alot easier to drive it on if it wont hurt anything
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I was looking at getting an exhaust brake and was pretty disopointed at the cost to get one. Has anyone ever tried making a homemade one with success? I run a auto and I was thinking can I just use the pull cable style to engauge and disengauge the brake? Sceems like that would be eaiser if you remember to disengauge it. I have already got the TC lockup switch. If anyone has done this maby you could share your blue prints on how you did so and what parts you bought. Thanks Tim
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I am going to be running an AirDog 150. I'm going to retain my stock fuel filter due to the fact that I live in the norther states and a fuel heater really helps. my questione is i can get a Big Line kit from Vulcan from the fuel filter to the IP, it comes in 3/8" or 1/2" lines, I'm wondering which would be better for me? I'm thinkingthe 1/2"?
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Hey everyone. I just need a little guidance on my truck, an '02 2500 QC/LB, H.O. w/ 6-speed. I haven't been driving it much lately, took a job in another state and I'm driving a little Dakota to keep the miles down on my baby. Anyways, I went to start it this weekend after sitting for the better part of 3 months and found the batteries dead. I had the key on long enough for the heater grid to cycle off, and when the voltage didn't come back above about 9 volts I shut the key off and put a trickle charger on the truck for about 14 hours and tried starting it the next morning. It fired, and ran fine for the three-minute heater grid cycle while I moved some items ar…
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Last night i install a fuel psi sending unit in my vp44 at the check valve, i remove it from the vp and installed a banjo bolt then the psi snubber, then the sending unit. When i went to start it, i bleed air at sending unit to get it to start, then back up parked until the morning to finish the inside stuff then. Once i was finish it would not start. bleed again, but did'nt get any fuel. remove banjo at back of filter and i did the crank-no-start thing for the pump to start and it was but nothing coming out of the banjo at all. Was on a slope driveway and I had 1/4 tank of fuel, went and got 5 more gallons, still nothing. I then went and fired up the air compressor to pu…
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Anyone tried this in their truck, added to the fuel that is? I had an extra quart the other day so I dumped it in when I filled up so it would be right at 128:1. I got .5 to .8 mpg more than I ever have before! Anyone got any thoughts or explanations? There was no 2-cycle in the tank at all, not even a trace! As I understand it, ATF+4 is fully synthetic.
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have been noticing a drop in power and loud engine noise from the drivers side under heavy acceleration for a month or more and started digging on the weekend. I found my boot coming off the intercooler on the drivers side has about a 3 inch slit in it caused by the inner fender. Could'nt see it until i started pushing on the boot because of the road dirt build up on it.Now just to figure out where i'm going to buy a boot
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Hey guys Ok - onto next part of the equation. The TC and VB are ordered - and should be here in a around 1 week. Thought I would ask for advice on dropping and reinstalling the tranny as well as the TC/VB replacement. Any thoughts or guidelines from experience. ?? I have heard the TC and the cross members can be a pain ...................... Any special tools or techniques help ? Things to watch out for ? thanks John ---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 AM ---------- Oh - and yes- I am getting some help also hahahaha - thought I would beat W+F telling me to do so *joke*
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Sorry it's so long, and it dose not start getting bad till the end. If you can see the tack you will see it surging up and down. http://jlweldingtx.com/JoesTruck/truck.html
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