2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Any one got an Idea was this could be? I hoping it's not anti-freeze. The truck sat for about 60 days without being started, it starts to burn off at about 400*F hoping its oil from cylinders from sitting.

I have searched and found nothing on the Hy35 turbo. I had my truck at a friends shop last week for an alignment, while test driving I asked him to run with the scanner on, he first ran with the edge comp on and then with it off. the boost pressure at idle was reading 10-11 psi in both scenarios then went up to 28-29 psi in both scenarios. I was wondering if this is normal or if there is any way to test the actuator on these turbos. the line b/t the housing and the actuator is steel, not rubber. I have had the rod b/t the actuator and the wastegate off and the wastegate moved freely. Thanks in advance, Luke

I am looking to replace my stock fuel filter on my 98 dodge it developed a leak around the heater pigtail harness grommet and I am getting not much help from local dealer one mechanic told me to drill it out and plug it not sure if that's wise any guidance would be appreciated am leaning more towards aftermarket I am thinking suggestions please

I know for a fact the internal voltage regulator is going in my 2001 with all my tests and new parts. Yes, the alternator is new,both batteries and the wires are good, as well as the grounds. I know the regulator is internal in the computer and are contemplating on doing a external modification to solve it, but are unsure. Has anybody done this mod to their truck and have any bad effects? I am looking at the kit at Alternatoparts..com and it looks pretty simple. The part number is ERCKFRM. I am thinking that this is why my automatic has been acting up. It all of a sudden started to stutter. I am sure the signal/voltage between the PCM and APPS is being effected some…

My new truck has a Karr security system in it. I think Karr is out of business, and I can't seem to find a manual and I don't really even know the model of the system, but I want it gone.Any bright Ideas guys? I can upload photos saturday or sunday.

I am going to be doing a lot of driving after I get out of training this next year... and I am thinking of ways to reduce my fuel costs other than buying a small car. I was looking at these systems, or building my own. http://mycngguy.com/product-category/diesel-bi-fuel-systems

If the vp is not tapped and just running say a Edge EZ or comp will it make the vp run hotter. Reason I ask is it is so dang hot down here I dont wont to stress my Bulechip lined with gold vp:lmao2: anymore than I have to.

i cant afford to pay a shop to do it so i am thinking of doing it my self. i know my way around tools and i have rebuilt gas engines but never a diesel. what i need to know is what rebuild kits are good out there? i seen dap offers one. or should i just go to cummins and get one. i found a machine shop in my area that is supposed to do diesel engines so i am gonna go there tomorrow and see what they charge to do the machine work. the reason i am gonna rebuild is i am getting really bad blow-by it even popped my tappet cover i installed and is blowing oil out there. the truck has a little over 200,000 miles on it but i bought it used. any tips or advise would be greatly ap…

Been looking at lockers for the rear diff ever since the Goerend triple disc and accompanying full beef up to the trans. I'm open diff now, no LSD. I live in the dirty south where snow is an oddity. Looking mainly from a performance traction standpoint. The tranny grips hard and the rear is about 350 lbs lighter than it was before. It is fairly easy to break one rear tire loose without trying. Truck is not a daily driver...is only used for fun and for pulling a light boat (2k lbs). So don't care about towing manners or too much about quirky road manners. Just looking to put power through both rears to decrease slippage...and maybe a little mo…

I was looking at the conversion kits for the front hubs, converting them to old school lockout hubs with real bearings....And they are claiming 2+ mpg increase...that is a big gain for these heavyweights. Is anyone currently running these hubs that could confirm this claim??

I was thinking of tying waste gate shut with a turnbuckle, I have the spring thingy but over time the boost is dropping off from 28 down to 24 now. There is no more adjustment in hook w/spring. What U think? Thanks

I was looking at one of these: http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/divid/78/Pickup.Trucks and wondering if anyone here is using one and what their experiences have been with it? Thanks!

Going to be changing fluids and such on my new to me 2002. With only an edge juice is there any need for anything more than a regular parts store replacement paper filter for the air box ? I know most bang for buck would be BHAF. I like the stock look and would prefer to keep the stock box(don't see any cracks in it) If the regular fram filter isn't adequate for the Edge juice i was thinking about the slightly more expensive route of an AFE dry factory replacement for the stock airbox. Thanks

I've been wanting to get the high idle enabled in my truck, dealer wants more than I think it's worth so next option is to get a smarty and plug it in which will enable this feature. I know DAP will "rent" them out for this but you basically buy it then return it which ties up $650+ until they get it back. Figured I'd ask if someone has one I could borrow to get this enabled.

There aren't many guys doing it. Only one guy on the net I can find so far and he had troubles. Ended up just goin back to the PCM voltage regulator. :think:I want to do it because of RFI noises and possible damage to the computer. This is according to a couple electrical engineers recommendations I was reading about .

Was wondering if anyone has enabled the high idle feature in their ecm lately. I know you have to take it to a dealer or find someone with a smarty to get it done. Mainly wondering what a dealer might charge. Thinking I'd like to get this done at some point but a little afraid of what a dealer may charge me. I've been on and off if work lately due to a torn meniscus in my right knee so kinda pinching pennies at the moment.

I like nice OEM style buttons to control things, It could be EB or TC lockup or whatever. Or the dodge version I looks like it might be a pretty easy install. Anyone ever been down this road?

I just bought an 01 2wd daully checked codes this what I got: P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 Circuit, or No Vehicle Speed Reference Signal 1. no clue what to even look at.

I broke my stock airbox top by stepping on it while it was on the garage floor. I shattered the slots that make a hinge with the bottom section. Does anyone have the top half of a stock 24V (2001) airbox that I could have? I'm currently running a BHAF and I'd be willing to trade even for the airbox, however I would have to wait until I got the airbox before pulling the BHAF off. It probably has 10K miles on it or so, and it looks nearly new. Anyway, I live north of Atlanta, zip 30114. Can anyone help a brother out? Thanks, Blake ---------- Post added at 01:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:48 PM ---------- By the way, I can just buy the air…

I can't get fuel pressure to go above 11-12 till an hours worth of driving. I have all 1/2'' lines and tested everything else I can think of. Even tried two brand new AD 150's and bypassed the filter, still the same low pressure till warmed up for an hour or so. And the thing that's strange is you cannot find any problems with Raptor pumps on any google search beyond 2013. It's like they hired someone to keep all searching clean of problems before that year It makin me nuts I have not alternative except to turn up the regulator another 1/2 turn