2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My rear brakes (drum) have never really grabbed much. I recently replaced a leaking wheel cylinder and for a few brake applications they worked awesome. The rear abs actually activated. By now I'm back to the previous laziness. What can be wrong? It's a real pain having only front brakes at icey intersections.

Yeeeep... DAP 75HP Injectors! :hyper:Its raining like a cow pissin' on a flat rock! :ahhh:Stay tuned! I'm gonna post up about the install and let you guys know how it pans out!

Hi Folks, I want to preface this by saying I searched this site and many others without finding satisfactory answers. The issue is that my clutch does not appear to be disengaging when I depress the pedal. The symptoms began yesterday with a sporadic increase in effort to get it into gear when shifting. Today, over the period of about an hour of mostly easy highway driving with a few of stops, the symptoms persisted and worsened until the clutch would no longer release and I had to start the truck in gear to get moving and float gears to shift to get the truck home. What was weird to me is that it was inconsistent in the behavior, mostly the clutch…

well... i just dumped $1500 in front suspension..... put in 100hp injectors ran fine lots of power. running out of funds to dump in this truck. Now that i had her running the way i want, i lost torque converter lockup. Im not the greatest when it comes to transmission department. but i dont feel the kick any more after 40 mph. and at highway speeds i have very little power on my 5x5 setting . i thought maybe my air filter (AFE pro dry) could be restricting becasue i noticed it has a few kinks in it like it imploded. washed it out and dont feel any difference. I have had locking/unlocking issues before and was advised by moparman to remove the noise filter..…

Does anyone have the dimensions for the VP44 gear puller? I want to make one for almost free rather than paying $40 + for one.

Hi guys, first post! I have a 2000 Ram 2500 5 speed. Runs great for the first 5 minutes in the mornings then she's having what I would say a miss at idle and rpm Fluctuating between 800 to 1000rpm. Once I hit the throttle the rpms stay at about 1100 and will not come down until it's in gear. Also when I drive it, and coming to a stop, the idle is high and makes it harder to stop. I had a map sensor code and got that cleared. I changed injectors (oem) thinking that was the issue but nope still there and does the same thing. I did replace crank & cam sensors. (I was playing the guessing game) I did notice when unplugging the cam sensor that no check engine …

Time to change all of the fluids. Oil, rear end, trans, coolant. Everything else seems to be working fine. I might change out my apps because i am shifting a little late. I am hoping the late shift is from a small loss of power from a faulty apps. If not it is probably a weak pump.

Hello everyone! I have a 2002 ram2500 with 6spd in it, I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder about 24,000 miles ago. It's hard to shift into any gear from a dead stop, it shifts fine when I'm moving. Is this signs of the clutch master cylinder going out? I have no leaks anywhere and the reservoir is full. If it is the clutch master cylinder that needs to be replaced can I just replace that and not the slave? I'm a little tight on money right now and trying to save as much as I can. Thanks for any helpP.S. I wanted to add the reason I replaced the slave cylinder, I was driving home from work one day and in the midle of shifts it would not go into any gear I was …

Anyone tried this in their truck, added to the fuel that is? I had an extra quart the other day so I dumped it in when I filled up so it would be right at 128:1. I got .5 to .8 mpg more than I ever have before! Anyone got any thoughts or explanations? There was no 2-cycle in the tank at all, not even a trace! As I understand it, ATF+4 is fully synthetic.

So I have been mulling over a way to pull fueling when smoke is being blown out the tailpipe. This is going to take a few revisions, but my basic plan is to put an arduino between the apps and the ecm then read input voltage from the APP's while watching for smoke out the tailpipe, then adjust the APPS voltage to the ECM to reflect less TPS input if smoke is detected. couple of issues, 1. keeping the sensor clean 2. version 1 won't work at night, since there is no natural light 3. placing the sensor at the end of the tailpipe may cause too much of a delay due to the time between stabbing the throttle and the time it t…

Carter Campaign Pump 4090046 Cummins Part Number $63.00 Dodge OEM Pump BSAAL6429X Mopar Part Number $209.00 Napa OEM Pump NFPP74213 Napa Part Number $179.99 Carter Fuel Pump (Generic) P4601HP $99.50 Carter Campaign Lift Pump This is a redesigned lift pump for the Cummins engines. From what I heard it was design for the Buses more than anything. But I found that the Campaign pump is exactly identical as the Dodge OEM pump that was supplied at manufacture. Just much cheaper in price! UPDATE - November 24, 2006 The campaign pump is doing fair with a stock engine configuration. My fuel pressure have slid a bit and now it idles at 13.5 PSI, Cruise at 12.5 PSI, and WOT 1…

Ok I am fixing to change my oil for the first time. What filter and oil does everyone run? I was thinking Mopar Filter and Rotella 15w 40. Are these ok if not why?

Everyone claims the stuff is great, except for a few pages i found on the internet. They also really have a lot of websites for this stuff. Seems like Mary Kay or Avon for men. Does anyone actually have any proof this stuff works? I would still be worried about running any oil 25k without oil analysis, which adds even more to the cost of the oil. Do you guys think it would be worth it? I am currently running Valvoline Premium Blue @ $12.99 a gallon, so approximately $33 a fill. Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel is $75.15 for 2.5 gallons.I read an article where a guy ran a 12-valve for 1 million miles and it was still going good but a little worn out on nothing more than off…

02 3500 nv5600 2wd quad cab. 233k. I've been as diligent as possible regarding preventative maintenance, but you know how it is, entropy is a ***** and things go wrong. Now getting ready to put down some serious miles - long distance cross country driving soon, multiple times this spring and summer from NJ to Florida towing a haulmark 20ft car trailer (approx 7,000 gvwr). Here is a list of the repairs i've done, as well as some pro-active maint in anticipation of major highway miles. Is there anything else I should do? Thinking I've got the major failure items covered.. Is there anything else that's know to fail on these 2nd gen…

I have a 2001 3500 w/independent front suspension,is there any way to test the front ABS sensor w/a voltmeter/ohm meter?

Hi Guys, I was directed here from BigFish over on the cumminsforum.com My 01 won't start at all. For the past few weeks it was not starting back up once HOT. I pulled the fuse to the lift pump to see if it would then start when hot, to eliminate the possibility of a diaphragm issues in the vp44. It would not start. It did start the next morning and threw the code P0118, coolant temperature sensor. I replaced that sensor, and everything seemed fine. IT would start back up when hot after replacing that sensor. Then a week later at the diesel station, it did it again. Would not start back up when hot. I waited 20 minutes, and she fired right…

Alright only a day before i take my big Camper on her first maiden voyage(with us that is). While in town cashing my check and getting Diesel $100 worth... I felt the clutch pedal was sponge like and pushed to easy compared to normal. shifted the same ran the same. Till i got home pulled in to the drive and started to back up but couldn't get it to go back in gear. Shut the truck off put it in first pushed the clutch in fired the truck back up. Let out the clutch truck rolled forward as normal then stoped repressred the clutch and wouldn't go back in any gear. Let the truck sit and cool for 3 hour's came back and it's back to normal now. Called a trans shop talked to him …

Really cold here in Arizona last night - single digits - truck started, let her warm up a few minutes, went on down the road and died - believe it might be gelled fuel and need guidance on best course of action. Any help appreciated. Thanks. --- Update to the previous post... Forgot to mention I had it towed home and is sitting in garage right now.

My son has a 2002 Ram 2500 HO 6 speed manual. About a week ago, the codes p0112 and p0237 showed up.We took off the Edge EZ otherwise the truck is stock.Cleaned the IAT sensor. Did not look that dirty.The MAC Scan tool (determinator) was unable to read the IAT or MAP voltages.Not sure if this is a limitation of the scan tool or an ECM problem.We cleared the codes but they return immediately when the ignition is on. We checked all the grounds and cleaned the battery terminals.The batteries were both at 12.7 volts.Measured resistance from the IAT gnd terminal on the connecter to engine block and got 0-0.1 ohms.So I think the grounds are ok. Measured the voltage of the IAT …

Hey guys, I got a rebuilt tranny job not too long ago. The guy put a tow/haul valve body in for me. It shifts later than stock to get the engine to rev higher. He said something about the OD button, but I can't remember. Would it still be ok to have my OD or should I still turn it off when tow/hauling?