2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Snow is forecast so of course the truck is on the fritz. It's about 40 degrees out. Turn the key, "wait to start" light doesn't come on and grid heaters obviously not working. I have a Quadzilla tuner and if I just leave the key on long enough I can see that the IAT is reading 40 degrees so I know the IAT is working. Even if the relays or grid is broke shouldn't I still see the "wait to start" light coming on for 10 seconds? Is there something obvious I'm missing?

I recently had problems with my airdog turning off on me. I would un plug the relay and plug it back in and it would work fine for a little and then turn off again. I changed the fuel filter tonight after more miles than I'm willing to admit and its feeling a lot more responsive. Now the thing that's weird though is when I get around 7 lbs of boost it sounds like the airdog is spoiling along with my turn. I'm guessing it's because it's under higher fuel demand than when at idle. It's an Airdog 2 4G 165GPH. I put a WIX 33627 filter on it. It's been fairly quiet until now. Anyone have any ideas as to what it might be?

Looking to get a little more power, probably all I need is a little more boost. Anyone know anything about Turbosmart wastegates? Another option was a boost fooler but heard mixed reviews as how much they actually do. Also was looking at upgrading Turbo, Borg Warner makes a drop in K27 that it says has better low/mid range response. Not sure I want to upgrade to more performance electronics like Quadzilla or Edge. Any suggestions?

My profile explains everything. I am a “diesel dummy” but need a little help to finish diagnosing. I want to check the harness from the ECM to the injector pump. I see where it connects to the injection pump then the harness goes into a main loomed harness. I have probably over looked the ECM but where is it so I can check the connector and pins. Any pictures would be a great help. Thanks

I recently fried my second ECM. It died in the same way as the last one. Stumbled will cruising around town and then died completely. It felt like the lift pump failed but the VP44 kept trying for a bit and then it stopped too. After getting it towed home I could get both the Fass lift pump and the injection pump to run (and the truck to idle) by bypassing the ecm but got no voltage signals from ecm to either lift pump or injection pump when trying to start the truck with e dry thing wired normally. After reading the article here by IBM mobile about proper lift pump wiring, I believe the ecm failed because the relay that was used in the lift pump wiring didn’t…

My truck all the sudden takes a good 3-5 seconds to crank over, as well as the fass fuel system pumps for a good 20 seconds once the key is turned, is that a good sign if the vp44 going out?

Can’t seem to find any answers so I’ll ask you guys. I have a 98 Ram 2500 24v Cummins automatic tranny. Have problems with it going into drive and stalling no problems with reverse. But when I engage my torque converter lock up switch while switching into drive I have no problems. So could that be a torque converter problem or a problem with the switch.

So, I was driving home and the truck was running great after having replaced the Governor Pressure Solenoid in the 47re and then suddenly I lose power, truck won’t go above 1500 rpm and Check Engine Light rears it’s ugly head. I limp home and start looking into it. At first I would get no code at all, truck starts fine, idles well at 850ish but touch the pedal and it shoots straight to 1500 RPM and stays there. Let go it goes right back to 850ish and idles fine. I eventually got the damn thing to give me the code P1689....not what I wanted to see form what I have read. So, I changed my fuel filter, checked my connections to the VP44 and made sure t…

I have narrowed down my power issue to I hope what is the ECM. I get a lack of power at consistently 35 mph+. The guy who did this swap used the ECM from the manual 2001 and it had some sort of tune on it that no one seems to know. Just trying to find someone to flash it back to stock and start my troubleshooting from there. My local dealer said they do not do any electronics like that for my year of vehicle.

As some of you know I just had to replace my VP. Install when wel except the installer forgot his head was not just for putting a haton. Got thru that,all is running well. The truck runs a good bit smoother and quieter idling and cruising. It's still a 24v so accelarating thru the gears is another matter. The main reason for posting this for the purchase thru @dieselautopower. When I ordered the pump I asked for and paid for overnight shipping. It came to me Fedex ground in 2 days. When I realized that it was not overnighted the next I contacted DAP about it and they said they would look into it. I left it alone since there was not much one could do about it at the…

I am a newbie to Cummins diesel trucks so bare with me and my questions. I changed my fuel filter today, once the old filter was out I noticed debris in the bottom on the filter housing so I cleaned that out best I could. I had to drain the housing so it took a few key cycles to prime again but she did restart. While doing this I noticed another inline filter before the LP that I'm sure is not factory. See pics below, before and after cleaning out the debris, last one you should be able to see the inline filter down near the frame. Also, there is what seems like a larger line from the LP to the filter housing. Is this just an adapter or is it what is con…

I'm new to the site and wanted to say thanks in advance for any help given. I had a shop diagnose my trucks issues, and they said its got a bad ecm "2002 dodge 2500 5.9 cummins six speed". I decided have my ecm sent in for repair. My Chilton repair manual doesn't mention anything special on the reinstall. They did talked about grounding your self to the vehicle and using a anti-static pad. I don't have a pad. It sounds like plug in and drive. Let me know if i'm wrong.

I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 I’ve replaced the lift pump and camshaft sensor and these codes keep popping up and making the truck run rough. Please help I need it back on the road again

I haven't had my truck long only done a few upgrades. Got a few questions I have been slowly replacing my vacuum lines after finding them with holes. My question is why does sometime I have more blowby then others and yes its warmed up sometimes it's nothing coming out vent tube and sometimes it steaming pretty decent. I did the cap upside down test and it doesn't move and it doesn't tea kettle. What would cause this? Next question is I changed my oil with 15w 40 delo 400 after driving 1000 miles the oil is still clean and clear I'm use to diesel oil being black soon as u crank it and check it. Is this ok or something wrong? Last question is I had a intercooler boot cut I…

A week ago my wait to start light would flash when i turned the key on but would not power the grid heaters. I replaced the relays and the IAT. Now the truck is throwing codes P0382 P0380 P0237 P0341 P0113. I know what the codes mean but I was hoping someone had experienced this and could help with the diagnosis. Truck is running rough intermittently, at idle it is pretty rough and when driving it is hit and miss. I started the truck about an hour later and now the check engine light isn't on but it is still running rough. All help is appreciated. Thanks.

My 01 started running a little rough intermittently. It did it once and quit. Hell I thought it was a glitch but about 3 weeks later it was running rough again. I changed the fuel filter with no change. Then I changed the lift pump and it ran better but not good. I wasn’t having any issues with it starting at all, just randomly would get loss of power. At this point I was still driving it to work but it was getting worse. You could turn of the key going down the highway and boom it would run good again, maybe for a minute or the rest of the day. It finally got to where it would take a few minutes to start so I went ahead and changed the VP44. It ran perfect for 2 days and…

Does the plastic radiator drain plug only turn 1/4 turn to open? Or does it screw all the way out? My fluid looks clean ad green but 1/4 turn it doesnt drain..... I tried blowing air into it to clear anything . no luck. Does it screw all the way out or just 1/4 turn... Dont want to break it... Dont remember this issue last time I replaced my coolent any tips PS does it turn 1/4 turn then you pull it straight back / out? Thanks

A little background on the truck. I have owned it for about a year and the first thing was dead peddle issues, it wasn’t bad just some hesitation sometimes then the crank sensor went out so I replaced it and eventually put a Timbo apps in it. It has always thrown the P0222 since replacing the TPS but ran fine. I developed a bad oil leak around the vacuum pump. I removed the bolt holding the wiring harness to the side of the block to pull the wiring back for better access to the pump and have been getting the following codes ever since. My tach will go dead all other gauges are fine and the truck will lose power but not die. Usually after I drive it for about 20 minutes it…

Installing a new deep oil pan and filter decided to replace all the solenoid and the 3/4 spring. I want to install the new overdrive and tcc solenoid without removing the valve body. Can this be done if I just remove the zip ties and reuse the original harness? Or am I missing something?

Yup, Friday the 13th and a full moon has struck me... Got the transmission and clutch done went out for a short test drive and came back check for leaks or issues. Sure enough the driver side tank blew out started leaking just above the drain cock. Redneck fix. I cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap. This will allow the pressure to escape the radiator and not build pressure. I made 84 mile test drive and no issues. I've got a replace radiator in Ontario, OR waiting for me. $282 dollars for a replacement radiator. Oh well... Radiator lasted 392k miles and header tank seal failed.