2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

19psi while running yesterday, around 10 cranking, plenty of fuel coming out when I loosen the return banjo. Nothing more than a slight trickle out the back/at the injectors while cranking. Tries to start on ether (grid delete, sprayed through the boost bolt) but since there's no fuel it's unsustainable. First VP went out at ~130K while towing. I replaced it with one from a truck at a friend's shop that he had owned since new but had a cracked 53 block, and I've been running on it ever since. Last night, after driving all day, I went to Daytona to bring an engine crane to a racer friend who's running the SCCA Nationals, and shut it off so we could hang out for a bi…

So I installed a bd super b 57/65/14 (s300g) a couple weeks ago and have put a couple hundred miles on it so far. Towed a dump trailer this week put some good highway miles on it, it wasn't a huge improvement over my holset wh1c 58/60/14 non gated. Spool is a litter better, fuel economy is a little better, it whistles louder and pulls a little better. The biggest gain is the drop in egts, dropped a couple hundred degrees. I still like it and it is an improvement but not what I was hoping for. The 60mm cover and wheel on my wh1c lit faster and pulled harder...but surged like crazy, hence it being sold. I'll report back this weekend after I abuse the super b this weekend, n…

Well after leaving my truck parked for a couple of weeks now. I fire it up and now I can visibly see oil smoke just a puff at initial start up and gone. If its parked in the shop you can smell hang in the air. As for driving there is no oil smoke under normal driving conditions. Now this might be park of the last bout I ran the exhaust brake and would see it after a long down hill run. I'm starting to wonder if the valve seals are getting sloppy? There is no blow by.

I guess I'll be changing a IP next week so I have been reading over manuals to see what I'll need. I don't have a gear puller, I found this one on Geno's http://www.genosgarage.com/product/cgp010/tools. Is there any reason it wouldn't work? Something better? Also, I figured that I'd put in a fuel pressure test adapter since I don't currently have that option. Maybe it will come in handy. Thoughts?

So I've been battling this 01 into a 99 swap on my weekends for the past month or so. (Didn't know I bought the wrong Year) Got her runnin. No tach. Bought the destroked kit which BTW is not made for this swap. Slotted the holes so that the missing 36th tooth is 60deg BTDC. Drilled out the sensor bracket to fit the stock crank sensor. Soldered in some more wire for length and viola. I now have my tach working but I'm blowin white-ish smoke. Unplug the relocated crank sensor and no smoke. I'm thinking that my crank sensor being about 120deg from where it would normally sit in the block is fudgin me up. I'm sure the tone ring is lined up right but I guess the ecm needs to s…

So I'm going down the interstate in my 1998.5 24v and noticed 0 (zero) fuel pressure. Pulled over as soon as I could and shut down. My FASS usually makes noise. Now it is silent. It's dead. Here is what I know: - Its getting electrical current. Upon bumping the starter, the test light (at the lead that goes into the pump motor) turn on for a bit and then goes off. So the wire to the pump it hot. - It's not a fuel line clog. The truck does run after all. In fact, I didn't notice anything wrong such as lack of power or stumbling. And I'm towing a largeish RV. The gage was the only thing to indicate problems. - Tried the loosing of the three bolts at th…

I've realized that part of doing business is accepting whats available. Such as the nearly impossible 2nd gen 5 spd Trans on a fair priced truck. I found a very clean 2nd gen one ton dually, nearly perfect, it is priced right but, has the automatic trans. My question is... do the one tons come with a better built trans? More reliable? It has 177 K miles. It's a 1996.... are the front end problems the same as the 2002 trucks with trac bar and tie rods and BJs'? I might add, it was a power company truck so it was regularly maintained and will check fluids, and how she runs in the morning.

Hi all, 1st time poster but been viewing for a while. Good site Mopar :thumbsup . I've got 3 qts of this Valvoline Marine dino left over from the summer (for the boat) and I was thinking of burning it up in the 6.0. It has pretty decent looking specs. for a dino and the description of its mixability sounds good too. What the heck right? Gotta use it in something. http://www.valvoline.com/products/Outbo ... MMA%20(BIA)%20Certified%202-Cycle%20Engine%20Oil.pdf Anyways what do you all think. snoboy

Anyone running one of these?

Rookie post even though we've own this thing since 2005. Often herd there are no dumb questions, well here is one Our Trailer and stuff in bed of pick up is about 12,000 pds loaded. 2001 truck is stock with 47re with a 4:10 rear end. When going up long mountain grades, I make it point to not go over 1150-1200 on my pyro. On long upgrades I usually end up falling in line with the big trucks and just chug up to the top about the same speed. But not unusual to be passed by other people pulling about the same weight, sometimes like I'm standing still. I understand newer equipment has bigger horsepower. I don't care if I'm not the first one to the top of hill or not.…

I recently went through the whole T/C lockup problem and found it to be a bad ground. I fixed the issue and no problems until today. It started going in and out of lockup in 3rd and 4th but not like it was doing before. Before it was at steady throttle now it does it at different throttle positions. Also I just got a P0336 code. My question is will a Crankshaft Position Sensor cause T/C lockup issues or am I getting the code because of T/C lockup problem?

I took my Edge Ez off a little over a year ago and forgot about the edge elbow. Should I put the stock elbow back in or is there any advantage to the edge elbow?

Truck belongs to a good friend of mine. A couple years ago, he had an overcharging problem. Since the PCM (I think) controls the charging, he wanted me to throw an external voltage regulator (EVR) on it to 'get by for awhile'.. Well, it worked fine for a year or so, and now he told me yesterday that it'll peg the voltage gauge and ding the check engine chime. the fuel gauge, he said, will often drop to empty for a few seconds, then return to normal, but doesn't seem consistent with anything else.. Are we at a point where he should look for another PCM? Or has anyone seen this type of issue before? Thanks, all.. …

Finally got a comp for my 02. I'm reading the directions and I'm having trouble deciphering where and what wire to tap. " Top wire closest to engine block". Anyone know what color this one is? Stock VP the engine is an H.O. Also, the instructions say nothing about the ground wire, can this go anywhere? Where did you guys that have one put it. - - - Updated - - - Never mind, ten pages into the search someone directed me to the Juice installation page from Edge. Alot better picture than the Comp page.

I know this has been discussed often on this forum. Pertaining to the oil that can be used and how many quarts. And forgive me if this is common knowledge. How do you actually go about the draining and refilling? It’s pretty caked up in 17 years of goo. Didn’t really know what to look for as far as drain plugs and where you pour the oil in. And if the recommended service interval is 50-60k. I’m only 260k overdo at this point. Let that math sink in lol

OK so i need some help understanding the waist gate function. On my truck in my sig i have been running a Smarty S-03 for about 2 years and I have had the waist gate both hooked up and un-hooked with a 1/8 plug in the hole on the turbo. Egt's are much lower with the waist gate disconnected. I thought lower EGT's is better? I guess my Question is what is the harm of disconnecting the waist gate?

Bought the thermostat and a gallon if coolant. What's next?

Long story short, truck hasn't been ran in 3 months. Changed head gasket before It was started, took it on a test run and about 1/2 mi from home #6 intake rocker plastic retainer had enough. I'm guessing it broke, then pushrods shoved it up pushing the bridge off the valves. When the rod came up it also pushed the rocker far enough over to lodge it into the bolt which didn't allow it to rock anymore. Got home and found a few others where cracked/brittle so I ordered new ones. Turns out cummins has a newer updated style, ordered them on Saturday. I'll let y'all know how then are when they get here. Pics of #6, and stock photo of the new style…

Anybody have a good memory? Someone posted a pic of a brake airline they used for their low fuel pressure gauge. I can't find it now. The pic had name printed on the hose. I would like to track some down. Anybody remember the post or know what line to use? At my NAPA I asked for 1/4 inch airbrake line and they wanted to sell me what's listed below. After looking up what they sell I don't want to use it. It's not even brake line and I've hit the "bold" to show where I think it is lacking. Or if anybody's used this, is it good enough? Maybe just me but I was thinking there must be something better. Thanks for any response. …

I've been ignoring this project for a few months, but I recently made some progress. So I'll share some pictures. If you ever have a hankering to rebuild an engine harness, this is your future: After several failed attempts to untangle that mess, I kicked the Camry out of the garage and set up some tables. I finally got a chance to re-wrap the harness this weekend. The coiled wire is the "computer" ground that connects to the passenger-side battery. I will cut it to length and crimp-on the end after the harness is installed. This entire ground-wire node was rebuilt from scratch using new wire an…