2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I thought that I would post a thread just in case anyone ran into the same thing I did. Last week my wife drove my truck to an appointment while I was away on a business trip. She called and said that the truck was stuck in 4th gear and she couldn't get it out. Since I was 4 hours out there was not much I could do. Luckily she kept her cool and got it off of the interstate and into a hotel parking lot. When I got there, I just assumed that it was jammed somehow. No manner of pulling or pushing would free it up. I drove it home in 4th by shifting from 4L to 4H on the transfer case. Pulled the shift tower off to take a look. Apparently the shift tower had worn to the point…

OK guys looking to what you guys have for throttle position percentage reading at 70 MPH cruise with 3:55 gears and 47RE trans thinking mine is a little high from what I can remember but I could be wrong mine is at like 24-25% at 70MPH cruise I thought was usually around 17% before just can not remember??? Thanks in advance reading from quadzilla adrenaline

Today in my work load was my shop owner asking me to replace his water pump. Pretty straight forward. Got to the part of refilling the coolant in the system. I did like I normally do is remove the thermostat and fill when I popped thermostat out and the bypass flap is missing. Now this is the second Cummins thermostat seen fail.

01 Cummins won’t shut off....replaced ignition and still won’t shut off...any ideas?

A couple of weeks ago i did @IBMobile grid heater bypass. Everything worked great with no issues. This morning when i went to leave for work i turned on the grids. Fired up the truck, everything normal. Turned off the toggle switch for the grid heaters while the grids were powered up. Started driving and noticed my digital volt gauge was dark. Didn't think too much of it. It was cheap and figured it just died. Shut the truck down at work and realized my turbo timer was also not working. Checked everything and both volt gauge and turbo timer are fried. Took a little to put it together but i believe a current spike from the SS-581 solenoid destroyed them. I did some researc…

hey guys bit of a long story here but I need some help. my truck started to run a bit rough and losing a bit of power so I checked the lift pump pressure it was at 4 and zero at wot. so I changed it out new pump pressure 17psi, then it started to start hard in the morning and showing a 1693 code. Eventually it died on my way to work and wouldn't start so I changed the injector pump and before I even tried to start it threw a 1689 and a 1693. I got the truck running no problem cleared the codes and took it for a drive and it had low power and died 3 miles down the road and the codes were back. towed it home bleed the injectors and it started again runs and idl…

Wont shift to 3rd or od

Got the high idle switch installed and was wondering about using it in MPG mode with the XZT. I read that in MPG mode the high idle switch alters timing. So does the XZT when its in the 65 hp setting. Any problems using the 2 together?

Previously I discussed ongoing issues with my 47re, including no communication, no overdrive, no tcc lockup... I had already condemned the pcm and bought a junkyard pcm to replace it with. It has the same issues, could I have a bad pcm from the junkyard or is it more likely i have a wiring problem that either stopping communication or frying the pcm? What wires should i check before sending my pcm to be rebuilt?

I’ve checked every fuse known to man....have everything but running lights, anyone have any ideas on what I can do next?...01 Cummins

Ok Gang... I just had a wonderful phone conversation with Rburks this morning and his chasing his problems with his idle well he happen to mention the fact he did the APPS voltage adjustment and I like "OMG not again!" There is a article on the Internet that is wrote up wrong and need to be corrected and stopped. Problem #1 - Voltage on label Everyone is trying to hit this voltage dead on... DON'T! This is the voltage that the APPS sensor goes from ON idle start to OFF idle state. You voltage MUST be BELOW this number. Like on mine the voltage is .519. Don't set the voltage at this set it below this mark say .480 to .490 because as you add …

Been fighting with a really strange issue. I used to have strange power issues and dead pedal and the tach would bounce around and die every now and again. I have since diagnosed the dead pedal back to a faulty factory apps and replaced that with a timbo unit. That actually seemed to fix almost all the issues. Maybe 2 weeks after all that, I went to the dealer and finally had high idle programmed into the truck. The high idle has not kicked on at all, and yes it is cold enough, and I'm sure the sensors are reading correctly, I'm going to double check tomorrow morning. But recently, within the past 3 days, I've had an issue where the alternator will stop charging for a cou…

On my recent trip ran into problems that caused me to turn around and head home Very low power and limped it from Indianapolis to missouri got within 40 miles and died out no restart. Found lift pump hardly pushing any fuel. Got towed to house and investigated. Found in tank fuel pump screen plugged Cleaned and retested- still poor Put another in tank pump and filter. don't have $ for better system at this time My pressure gauge won't read cheap hf kit But definate improvement in flow and pressure No lite on dash But scanner came up with p1689. P0216 and p0382 Did the W-T ground mod and the p1689 went away Still have …

Hello everyone, a while back I installed a bd boost fooler along with a set of RV275 injectors. I installed a boost gauge before this just to see the difference, if any before and after this was done. My truck would build 24ish pounds on a hard pull, same with a trailer behind it. No change in boost after injectors or fooler. I had my scanner hooked up yesterday playing around and noticed my ECM was seeing 14lbs at idle, and when my truck was actually making 20lbs the ECM would show 34lbs. Shouldn't that be setting an overboost code? Was just curious if this was normal with the foolers?

@Dynamic This one is seeking your advice. I can't afford one of your valve bodies or a converter right now so its time for a shift kit. Transmission was rebuilt to factory specs by Cottman Transmission about 25,000 miles ago, before i bought it. Works fine, no slipping or other issues. I use it for a daily driver with occasional hauling/towing, max load of 10,000lbs. I have installed Sonnax accumulator piston, second gear super servo, billet band strut and anchor, Rostra transducer & OD/TC solenoids, Borg Warner pressure solenoid, LPW deep pan, and adjusted bands and TV cable. I do not like how these transmissions shift. To me they shift too soft. I like a trans that …

Seems to be sensor or computer related. Had a 10k machine on leaving a stop light she shudders my eyes go wide and I pull the shifter to first no change. At this point I think it's just slipping with a very light foot I get the load moving with minimal slipping. Ounce going I get 1upshift then lock and I stand on her roaling coal. Hunkered down and accelerating with no slipping. It didnt hit me yet I was starting in second. Get where I'm going check fluid its good shut truck off . Go to lunch later no trailer truck sluggish to move then I realized it's in 2nd. Just for kicks I shut it off rolling to stop light turns green issues gone. Ever si…

Please mention sensors, anything you know to check for. A complete list of things to check is what I'm after...... thank you.

I just got done changing the oil in my truck. This is the first time I changed the oil myself. I used Goofy-Lube the last 2 times (I know, I know, WHY would you do that...). When I went to take the drain plug out I noticed 2 issues, one, the square spot where you put you're 3/8th inch socket wrench was partially stripped (Goofy-Lube) and two, the plug was so tight I had to get a cheater bar to break it loose (I won't be going to Goofy-Lube anymore). My question is if anyone uses any of the drain valves in place of the drain plug. I saw some for sale on Geno's Garage like this one and this one. Just not sure how safe it is having something li…

hey all...I had a stuck injector last weekend so I replaced them with some even bigger ones (220hp vs 175) bc they were the only ones I could find on the saturday of memorial day weekend. Is it obvious with how the truck idles if there's an issue with the connector tubes? I dont know if there is, but the truck idles meaner with the new injectors anyways so a comparison to before isnt fair. The truck appears to be running fine, but it is way smokier than before. I know that could be the injectors just being bigger and smokier. We couldnt find any connector tubes over the holiday weekend so we reused the old ones that have been tightened on multiple times, and clearly over…

So this morning I started the truck and drove to class and everything was normal. Get out of class 2hrs later and go to start the truck and as soon as I do I know something isn’t right. Truck had a miss and. Is smoking white haze pretty bad. Whole engine is shaking and engine is missing sounds like. No knocking or anything like that. Injectors are only a year old. What would cause it to just go bad while sitting for a couple hours? Had the truck towed to my apt and am going to swap in my stock injectors once I get time (currently pouring cold rain) and hopefully that fixes the issue