2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am getting tired of listening to my squeaky clutch pedal Every time I depress the clutch it is like fingernails on a chalk board. A few months back I put some 3 in 1 oil around the pin that the pedal pivots on, but that was short lived. Do I have to disassemble the assembly to adequatly lube this? Someone has to have a trick to share.

OK so I recently rebuilt my 47re and have just over 1000 miles on it now . right around the 800 mile mark I started getting a pretty noticeable 2-3 bind up and I've been chasing my tail trying to catch it ever since.when I rebuilt the transmission I originally put in a superior front servo, the one with the sleeve and 2 o rings that restricts the release oil flow. I thought that was my problem so I swapped it out for a new billet double ring, double spring servo with billet cover. That didn't cure it either. I'm all ears at this point, everybody I've talked to says go with the TCS servo and there 4.2 lever and it'll go away. But I'm not ready to drop the trans to change t…

I have some oil leaks in some usual places such as the tappet cover, vacuum pump, and maybe the front cover and /or the front main seal. The other day I noticed some oil coming around from the rear of the engine. I thought it was from the valve cover but upon further inspection it appears that it is coming from between the head and the block. I looked at it with a mirror and can see the joint between the two has a wet oily line. the oil is migrating down and onto the block. About 4 months ago I blew my radiator climbing the mountain and briefly overheated the engine(my fault), could this be a by product of the incident and I almost blew my head gasket or could there be a…

Just bought my truck in May, 2002 3500 quad cab, it's the first diesel I've owned, so I'm on a definite learning curve here. Truck runs great, starts right up every time, pulls the 27.5 ft 5th wheel no problem. But here lately in the afternoon when I get off work and crank her up to go home, she'll idle out of the parking lot and when I get to the street and hit the throttle...... nothing happens and she just slowly creeps into the roadway. This will last for a couple of minutes and then all the sudden she'll take off and run great all the way home. I read some earlier posts on how to read the codes and so I read them this evening, here is what I got: P0500, P0460, P1693,…

I went to the dealer and had them activate high idle but it doesnt work. I used a 56k ohm resistor that Prowelder sent for testing purposes and the water temp was down around 100 degrees. I believe the resistor is doing its job at fooling the truck into thinking that its 32 degrees outside because the grid heater took along time to go out in 60 degree weather. MY ultra-gauge shows me that my tps reads 0.00 for the most part but every now and then it will jump up to 0.39 for a few seconds so im thinking this could be the problem. I have a Timbo apps thats only about a year old and I never really could get all the readings to line up like Tim told me to but he said it reall…

Last night on the way home I start detecting a vibration occurring when the driveline went slack. Kind of knew at that point the rear driveshaft was going to be the trouble maker. I found a way to change the rear most u-joint in under 1 hour without pulling the driveshaft. I grabbed the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press and began to press the old joint out. Finish the job and rolled it out of the shop in under 1 hour.

Alright, so not only do I have steering components to replace, now I may be facing a 2nd replacement of the AD pump! I went and got fuel the other day and dunno if that is the problem or not. We had a good cold snap come through before I filled up and put some diesel 911 in just in case it got colder than the formula for the fuel. They were telling us to expect -20 with wind chill at the time but the coldest we got with wind chill was -7 I think. It did not last long, but I did not want to risk getting stuck somewhere I shouldn't. The fuel was rated for -10. During this time, pressures were good. It was not until after I filled the tank and put more 911 in to tre…

Help! I'm trying to install my rebuilt NV4500 with the bellhousing on the engine. I'm on gravel, and can only raise vehicle on jack stands, the fork and the throw-out bearing will NOT stay in place. I've removed the bellhousing and zip tied the open end of the fork, where the hydraulic rod goes, and tried to put it back on the engine. Is there a clip or retaining ring on the other side of the fork I'm missing? If I attached the bellhousing to the trans, that would solve this, but is there another way? I do not have a lot of room for the bellhousing and I 've just moved the cross member down enough for the trans to clear I have my teenage kids to help, but t…

So my grid heater ALWAYS comes on when I start the truck. It doesn't matter whether the engine is warm, ambient is warm, etc. Example today: 78* ambient temp Engine temp 180 Intake air temp 175 Charging voltage (once moving and grids shut off) 13.6V. The lower charging tells me the battery temp sensor knows it's warm out, so that's pretty much ruled out. Is the ECM just mad because it can't see a VP??

I can get my NV5600 to shift if i am creative enough but it always wants to grind on upshifts. Notably worse between 1st and 2nd, 2nd and 3rd, 4th and 5th. 6th has never ground on me, and rarely a 3rd to 4th shift will. It never grinds on downshifts though. Also there is a rattling sound when idling second, usually when i am turning slow speed through a parking lot...but no rattling when accelerating while going straight. I am positive the sound is coming from the transmission. Any clues? :confused:

I'm looking for a little more h.p,how many more h.p with the HX,I have the stock injectors at 340,000 km probably good time to replace them what size should I go with the HX 35 turbo

Truck has a new injection pump and lift pump. Injectors were replaced last year. New CPS... has fuel to injection pump but very little to injectors. Injector lines to 1, 3, and 4 are cracked open. Number 3 gets a small amount of fuel, numbers 1 and 4 get none. Borrowed a good ECM and still just cranks. The injection pump was tested and it is good. Has a brand new air dog raptor 100 lift pump. Truck has 17 psi to isspro gauge when you turn key on... when cranking it has 12 psi. RPM sits around 250 when cranking. Injection pump has 12.2 volts to connection. Overflow valve is good at 13.5 pounds. Not sure what is causing the problem at this point need help.

Hey gang, Pulled with my 2 week old (to me) 2002 today. Took my 78 ford on my tandem car trailer 50 miles to a paint shop today with mixed highway, 2 lane driving. First, I was surprised as to how much it was taxing the engine, until I pulled of a ramp and smelled brakes burning and found my drivers e-brake was hung up. After that I could not believe this motor. Pulling my 78 with ease, up grades at 65 mph light pedal would not even be a fantasy in my old 08 super duty. I got 15.5 mpg round trip today, temps in the high 20's. So, what I'm here to ask is if my power curve is normal. My truck is an auto, and is shifts great. Truck pulls out fine, and when the conv…

OK.......... I have a Superchip Programmer, it came with the truck. I put the truck back in stock mode and had the high idle turned on at the dealer it worked fine while in stock mode. I put the tuner back on the truck and the high idle didn't work. Figuring that the tuner screwed something up and already paying $90 for the dealer I just gave up on the high idle.Fast forward to this winter. I decide to just go and have the dealer re turn the high idle on. I make an appointment for this morning and head to the dealer.The service manager comes back and gets me to show me the "flash" has already been done. I tell him yea I know it has, I had it done here. I also tell him tha…

What are yalls opinions on opti lube I have been using it and seems to smooth out idle and motor seems to run better than with just the 2 stroke oil I have run in the past. It is little expensive but has better lubricity results from past studies

Noticed today that when the clutch is engaged (foot off the clutch, "in gear") in any gear or neutral, there's a screeching/screaming noise coming from the transmission I can only assume. Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throw out will be 2 this September/October and if it's the throw out bearing this will be my 2nd one that started by screeching before taking my clutch out. What could it be and if it's the throw out bearing is it too late to save my $1000 clutch or would it be something simple like a slave cylinder? I so think I need a new one since engages and disengages are a little rough...

As of lately my truck has become hard to start. It requires about two ten second cranks to fire but then runs great. I have checked for fuel leaks and tightness of fuel components. I installed a lift pump and new lines 9 months ago. Also the tach doesn't match the speed you are driving. At light acceleration the rpms will jump all the way to 2k and on the highway at 60 mph it usually stays around 2700 rpm. I am not sure if it would be the crank sensor since I have no codes. The hard starting just happened out of the blue a couple weeks ago. Any help would great.

Well, the Cardone unit I put in 18 months ago is leaking like a sieve. The output shaft is loose. I noticed it was pretty wet when dismantling the front end last week. After disconnecting the pitman arm link, I can wiggle the shaft about 1/4 inch, and fluid is pouring out. Anyone recommend a GOOD rebuilder? In the Rockauto site, the "Lares Corp" unit has a little 'heart', meaning it's popular. (cheapest too) Should I try that one? They offer ATSCO, Cardone, ACdelco, and Mopar rebuilt.

I have been looking around at all the million ways you can do this and I came up with another way that seems pretty spiffy. Here's what I have come up with. First off, in the cab you need 3 single pole single throw switches, which are the simplest form of a switch you can get. Here is a pic of one. You install all of those, and hook one side of each switch to a good ground inside the cab. Now run the other side of each switch all outside into the engine bay. One switch will fool the coolant, one switch will turn on high idle, and one will turn on 3 cyl idle. The positive side of each relay is "always on" positive, so you can jumper from one relay …

This was copied from Chevron Web site... Come to find out it illegal to mix WEO/WMO in diesel fuel in California. Also once again even Chevron mentions that putting WEO/WMO in diesel fuel is a common preactice but suggest away from it. Being of the same problems I been talking about... ASH CONTENT (Ash cotent is to high!) Ash - Minor - Can damage fuel injection system and cause combustion chamber deposits. Causes damage in the long term... CARBON RESIDUE (Blow by gasses / carbon) Carbon Residue Minor Measures coking tendency of fuel; may relate to engine deposits. Causes damage in the long term... SEDIMENT (All the wear metals/debris) Water and Sedimen…