2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Seems to be sensor or computer related. Had a 10k machine on leaving a stop light she shudders my eyes go wide and I pull the shifter to first no change. At this point I think it's just slipping with a very light foot I get the load moving with minimal slipping. Ounce going I get 1upshift then lock and I stand on her roaling coal. Hunkered down and accelerating with no slipping. It didnt hit me yet I was starting in second. Get where I'm going check fluid its good shut truck off . Go to lunch later no trailer truck sluggish to move then I realized it's in 2nd. Just for kicks I shut it off rolling to stop light turns green issues gone. Ever si…

We riding home the other day in 10 degree weather and the fuel pressure gauge decided to put on a show. Running only the pump the pressure will stay at 15psi. If I start the truck the pressure starts out at 15 psi but as the charging systems stops wiggleing the amp gauge and it runs with out cycling the alternator the fuel pressure goes up to 30+and stays there. Performance is good and trust me im glad it went high and not the other way but this is silly.It seemed like maybe something was getting in the line up to the sending unit, ice? So its in a heated shop now and the same condition exists. The wiring is all good and turning the screw into the Holley Regulator s…

OK guys I may just paranoid but I seem to have a excessive fuel knock until at operating temp, I know its gonna be noisy when cold its a Cummins with 197k on it but this knock seems to come in recently, could this be dirty injectors or just over thinking it

So latley when the temps get below 5 to -5 below, my fuel pressure is showing about 2 to sometimes 4 psi greater. It normally idles at 18 psi. now its at 20 when I first start it up and has went to 22 once. This morning I left in hurry at 6 a.m, temp at negative 6. I only let truck warm up for 10 minutes or so. temp not even registering on gauge yet. I figured Id just take it easy going down road till it started climbing. I got about 4 miles and temp was lucky to see 160 and fuel pressure was showing 22 psi. then it started dropping all the way below 10 psi. so I stopped to try to build more heat.

Hi Guys/Gals,Im working on a 2001 dodge cummings 3/4 4*4. auto. The truck starts great will idle but if you drive before its at operating temp it just tops out at 1100-1200 rpms smokes black/ blue then holding full thottle will slowly start picking up rpms then all of a sudden around 3000 rpms just runs great like a champ wont happen again untill a cold start. no codes. doesnt burn oil/coolant. fuel psi great. I have checked everything I can think of. any ideas? Thanks a bunch.

Hello I’m wondering if you can help me out. I have a 2002 Dodge Cummins 24V. Cold start issue. I checked fuel pressure going into injection pump and I'm at 16psi. Wide open throttle it drops to 11psi. So all good there right. What the issue is at -10 celcius it won't start but if I plug in and leave over night it starts no problem. My intake heater is working as the intake elbow is really warm. So it's a cold thing. When I tried starting at -10c without being plugged in I cracked fuel lines at injectors and no fuel would come out. But... next day when I plugged in she started right up no issues. Seems like when the eng block is warm it seems to hold prime but when it's co…

I have a vintage 2001 24 valve 3500 ram with a 5 speed manual trans. When the temps outside get below 40*F the truck is hard to start. The colder it is the worse it gets. However, if the truck has been plugged in over night, it will start fine. The other evening the truck was cold (about 45*F) and had not been plugged in, so I used my wifes hair dryer in the air box to supply hot air (it worked previously), it tried to, but no start and the batteries ran down trying. So I tried to pull start it. As soon as I let off the clutch in 3rd gear it started! I have tried new batteries and my fuel pressure is 15 psi at idle and 10-13 psi at WOT with a FASS DDRP lift pump. I …

First, this problem only happens after it sits over night. If it sits 10-12 hours during the day it starts right up. Second, I have no codes, cleaned the battery terminals and used dieelectric grease on the the fuel pump electrical wires. Third, checked the 40 amp fuel fuse at the PCM.Fourth, fuel pressure is 17 psi at idle and driving and 15 psi at WOT. This problem is on a 99 2500 4X4 auto with an Edge EZ and a Raptor 150 pump. I believe it is an electrical problem. Here is the problem: turn the key in the morning, pump energizes, start the truck up and it runs for approx. 10 sec., shuts off, turn the key off and then back on- you don't hear the pump energize, turn the …

So I went on vacation this weekend and had to leave the truck at the airport. No way to plug it in. I have known for a while that the batteries were getting a little weak but like a :banghead: I figured I could squeeze one more trip out of them. When I got back last night it was a toasty -7* F in Fargo, ND. Batteries didn't have enough juice to crank her over. Had a guy give me a jump and we finally got it started after a couple of times worth of cranking a few seconds, let the batteries recharge, run the grids. Now the check engine light is on. Gonna go by a autozone or something and use a scanner. Ill post what I find. I got some new batteries today so I shouldn't have …

I am new to Dodge diesels. I have a 2000 model and when you start up at below freezing, there is a howl like a banshee coming from under the hood. It changes sound when you either turn the steering wheel or step on the brakes????? Can anyone tell me what the heck is going on??? After 15 minutes driving, it gets to be less of a racket but as long as its below freezing, it continues. Oh, and the temperature guage never shows over about 130 degrees. I have a new 190 degree thermostat to install when it warms up outside. :confused:

First off, Merry Christmas, second off I would like to say thank you to TFAORO for helping me get the truck running while off grid in -10 degrees Fahrenheit I had a 10 mile ride on a wheeler just to get a form of cell reception then for Tyler to respond quickly was awesome . So long short this is her first winter back on road 99 24 valve 5.9 4x4 auto with 320k on the clock basic mods and hybrid turbo, full frame off restoration... because of that I'm not ruling anything out yet. The facts Outside temp was -10 dropping to -14f blowing 20mph Truck was plugged in on generator power for 6 hours tested for good voltage to find it present...…

-27° C yesterday morning, and -28° C this morning. Without the wind. Both my diesels are dead, even after being plugged in. I hate winter.... Yesterday morning we weren't at home so the truck wasn't plugged in. The forecast was -18° over night and it got to -27°. Was pretty sure it was gelled up so I got some fuel de-icer, got a very long extension cord from the hotel staff, plugged in for an hour or so, and fired up alright. This morning, after being plugged in for hours, I can't seem to crank enough until I need to wait for the batteries to charge... Ugh.. My 2003 Jetta TDI has similar issues. Poured a little bit of de icer in that too just in ca…

Got started on my Big Stick III install a couple weeks ago. This cam is comparable to Hamilton "tow" cam 178/208. Mine came out of my 96 which I Colt reground. Pulled it at 494,400 miles, but they said it was good to go and gives me the mechanical lobe if I decide to convert to mechanical lift pump. During the project I did a couple things on the side- installed a block stiffener from Cummins, modded the water pump, and threw in a different set of injectors. The block stiffener is one they use on their Tata engines in India (Tata Cummins are a bit of an amalgamation of Cummins parts, built out of 2nd Gen 24V blocks with early CR pistons and VE injection pum…

HeyDriving today on highway - and around 60mph the truck starts to 'buck' gently like its missing fuel ?? Pressure gauge says 14 @ WOT and 16-17 regular.Me and ISX just put the old injectors out and put the oem ones back in (for the stall issue). It doesn't idle rough or appear to be missing (assumming missing in a diesel would sound like a rough idle/egnine etc).Not sure - Might stick some 2 stroke in it tomorrow - could one of the injectors be plugged/partial blocked ??

To start I have a 99, 2500, Auto, 2x4, 211,000, Lift pump in tank with Relay, 275 HP Bosch Injectors. I am the second owner & got the truck in 2001, IIRC it has 15,000 on it. To make a long story short, I just finished doing a bunch of things I have been putting off for too long now. Recently replaced (in order of installation): Vacuum pump (http://www.fixinrams.com/) PS Pump (https://www.genosgarage.com/) & Hoses (https://ormebrothers.com/). Brand new Bosch 275 HP Injectors (Had Edge Jammer Stage 1's & wanted to see the difference) ECM from https://carcomputerexchange.com/ (Lift pump was not turning o…

I recently had my stock lift pump go out, I was told to go with the DRRP because it is wasn't not chipped. Well now I am wanting to put a Edge Comp box on for Milage increase as well as a little increase in power.Will it work? My truck 99 cummins 2500, quad cab, 4x4, short bed, K&N cold air intake, looks like three and half inch straight pipe, Hx35 turbo wastegate not plugged, It does have bigger injectors between 40-75 hp not sure though. Tranny rebuilt 22k miles ago triple disc torque converter.

Currently dino diesel here is $3.179 a gallon... Then B2 Diesel is $3.259. So now if I was to fill up my truck (35 gallons) tank it would be (3.179 x 35 = $111.27) and Bio diesel is ($3.259 x 35 gallons = $114.07) that is a expense of ($114.07 - $111.27 = $2.80) extra. Remember I'm going to lose MPG so I'll be buying more fuel more often... Now I buy a gallon of 2 cycle oil and it cost about $8 bucks. It will cover 128 gallons of diesel. It will cost me (128 ozs / $8 = 0.06 per ozs.) So if I fill up with dino diesel at ($3.179 x 35 gallons = $111.27) then add my 2 cycle at 128:1 ratio. (35 x $0.06 = $2.10) so my total bill will be ($111.27 + $2.10 = $113.37) which …

I recently lost the motor in my 02 H.O 6spd truck. Right now Im researching prices and avalibility on just a drop in junkyard motor. (Gonna build the snot out of the original). Do I need to find another H.O. or will any 24 valve work. Mostly worried about the computerized end of the deal. Any experiences will be greatly appreciated.

I can't imagine this is a common problem but I thought I would share my story. I developed a driveline vibration at cruising speed so on my first day off I pulled it in the garage and sure enough the U joint by the rear axle was bad. When I checked the other joint and it was fine, but I happened to push up on the driveshaft and when I did the whole transfer case moved up and down with it! Upon further inspection two studs that hold the t-case to the trans were gone and all but one were backed way out. Also because the one stud was tight the t-case pivoted off of it and put a pretty good crack in my trans tailhousing. It's not leaking and I got everything tightened up with…

I am going to be doing a complete fluid change on my 01. I am looking for a recommendations on what fluid you guys are running or what works best in these 24 valves. I will be doing coolant, engine oil, atf fluid, and rear diff. Should I run any additives? Manual says to run something in the rear diff. Truck has a little over 80,000 miles on it and is an auto trans. It is a tow rig 75% of the time but not a daily driver. Looking for good quality stuff that is affordable and readily available. Is there anything else I need to do while I am doing all this??