2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Just got the truck about a week ago. I will refrain from the steering issues I've had I washed the engine 2 days ago since there was diesel all over (line blew off on way home from purchase) and I like a clean engine compartment. I opted to use a hose with wand power nozzle over a power washer which I use on all my other trucks because I noticed hack electrical work and wanted to avoid any shorting out of components. Well, now I have a cranks but no start condition It started one time for about 15 seconds then died. Did the key on key off deal which revealed the following codes Pcu P1693 Ecu P0236 P0216 P0121 P0236 …

i was under the impression that the 01 and 02 have camshft positioning sensors and the 98.5 thru 00 have crankshaft positioning sensors. are there any years that have both?

Hey guys got a question for ya has anyone ever removed there crankshaft position sensor mine is right between the starter and the stock lift pump? My problem is that upon removal the factory service manual says to twist as you pull to remove it upon doing so the plastic housing disinigrated leaving me with a little quarter inch nub, any suggestions for getting this thing out without dropping the oil pan since I would need to drop the transmission to get the oil pan off, other than that I was thinking maybee drive a screw into it?Thanks in advance

Ok so I've been battling a hard starting issue. When it sits especially if the fuel level is lower and the nose is uphill it cranks alot before firing. I tightened all the connections and don't see any leaks. Can one of you guys video your fuel psi gauge on a cold start up so I can see how your truck reacts? Mine will sometimes jump to 20psi for a brief half second while the wait to start is on before cranking and then it will drop right down to 0. I have started bumping the starter without starting the engine and allowing the pump to prime the system. Then letting the preheat cycle do it's thing. It seems to start better when I do that but not always. This is start…

I have a FASS 95 with 3/8" (I believe) fuel lines.Fuel filters (inline and main filter) replaced about 5k ago.Last week, my fuel pressure started reading 30+. My gauge only reads to 30. As long as I'm pressing the gas, I get a normal reading (15-18, ~14 WOT). When I start the truck, the pressure has always spiked to 30+ for a second, then came right back to 18. It's just now STAYING at 30+..Called FASS and got instructions on how to take the pump apart and check the ball and spring. I'm in the process of finding a mechanic or someone to help me because I'm not sure I can handle it by myself. I also need to check that my gauge is working (It is a GlowShift...) but I can't…

So I'm going to replace X-over tube o-rings and I have conflicting info, Book says torque injectors install tubes torque injector lines, I have read on this forum leave injectors loose (snug but not torqued), install tubes, torque lines, then torque injectors? Is one method better than the other? I understand reasoning, to help center tube on injector. Is the book overly confident that one could put the injector in the proper position the first time? I want to hear from people that have done it. Thanks

Can crossover tubes cause a slightly rough idle in park and occasional hard starts and not leak diesel into the engine? I’ve tightened the banjo bolt behind the head and the T fitting next to it. I park the truck nose down in the driveway no issues starting. Park it on level ground and every few startups it takes extra cranking for it to start. Injectors are fairly new. It didn’t start right after the injector install. Probably a couple thousand miles after. Thanks for any help.

I will be installing new injectors soon and I’ve read conflicting info regarding whether crossover tubes should be replaced at the same time. Proponents (including @dieselautopower) of changing them out say the risk of fuel leaks is much less if they are changed out. Those who say changing them is not necessary advise that if they are correctly installed and aligned with the injector, and have a properly installed o-ring, leak potential is minimal. What is the prevailing opinion here regarding changing the feed tubes? If I change them out, is there any reason to go with anything other than these? https://www.dieselautopower.com/bo…

I have a 2001 Ram 2500, 4WD, 6 speed. The cruise control indicator is always displayed on the dash, even before the truck is started. None of the cruise control buttons do anything. So, the cruise isn't working. I took the truck to auto zone and they reported that the truck wasn't throwing any codes. I attempted to contact dripley because he seemed to have this same problem, but his account no longer accepts messages. My best guess is the clock spring. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

During the day, 1st time using cruise control it accelerates. Set it at any speed between 45-75 and it continually creeps up. Turn it OFF - ON - set it - multiple time and it starts working fine. Anybody seen this and have a solution? No warning lights and no codes.

I was cruising down the highway towing the boat a couple months ago, set cruise on 60 and just started to slow down nice and easy. Since then, it has been out except I tried it yesterday and I feel it trying to take the pedal but it gives up. I am looking for any suggestions on an accurate way to diagnose if it is a vacuum leak or something in the servo. I look forward to your response.

I just remembered I had a weird thing happen and can't explain nor has it occured again. While I was towing my traveel trailer this last trip I had my cruise set for 55 MPH cruising towards Emmett, ID. It was really strange it was like someone lifting and stomping the throttle in a really jerky up down random cycle. Now remember I'm a fly by wire system no vacuum motor cruise. As for error codes there is none I check while driving (Scan Gauge II). As for the APPS sensor it shows 0 while cruise is active there is no signal (Scan Gauge II). I tested my alternator noise once I got to Emmett, ID and it was a normal 0.023 to 0.027 AC volts. After being shut down for the night …

Anybody have ideas on this little problem? My cruise control surges, meaning it will hold speed, but as you are at highway speeds it will vary rpm roughly every 5 seconds. This gets to be REALLY annoying when on a 6 hour trip.... I have not done any trouble shooting yet, just wondering if anyone else has had this. Thanks, Chris

My cruise control light was always staying on, but the fly-by-wire cruise didn't work. After much problem solving, I finally took the 2001.5 Ram 2500 6 speed diesel to the dealer. Trust me, it wasn't my first choice. Anyway, they told me that the PCM didn't know that I ever had a cruise control equipped truck. The tech claimed that part of the PCM hard drive was dead. The dealership ordered a PCM, but somewhere along the line there was a mistake and they received a PCM for an automatic transmission. They didn't install it. Instead, I ordered a PCM from NAPA for about $450. The PCM came in and the dealership agreed to install it, labor free, since they'd scre…

I'm trying to determine where the switch is on the clutch pedal to turn off the cruise control when it's depressed. I didn't see it in the parts diagrams. It's not working. I have to remember to turn it off to down shift while in cruise control :-( Any help with this would be much appreciated.

I recently replaced my ECM with a Cummins Re-Con unit. the truck runs fine and it seems the problems are cured by the cruise control light is on. Is this something that would be cured by having the unit programmed to the vehicle at the Chrysler dealer?

I have removed my cruise servo and before I throw $100 at a new one, I want to make sure this one is actually bad. Ohm meter reads 4.5 between ground pin and one of the others, 8.5 ohms to the other two. I can apply vacuum and apply power to check solenoid operation if needed, does anyone know if it takes a 5 volt signal, or does PCM send 12 volts? The idea of hooking volt meter leads to the truck-side plug and driving over 30 MPH to see if the PCM sends a signal just seems like a last resort. EDITS: I can confirm it takes more than 5V to operate the solenoids. Also, I believe mine is bad because when I applied vacuum and en…

Are they both controlled by the pcm? What about the pwr mirrors?

Well I have been curious just to see what an average EGT range for the VP powered trucks. I run between 600-700 pre-turbo anywhere from 55-75 MPH usually at 0-3 psi of boost. My truck has 100hp(7x.009 SAC) injectors, a 62/68/14 wastegated turbo, factory air box with a modified opening, 285/70R17, low stall converter, done rite valve body and 3.54 rear gears. Like I said just curious to see what people average.

Has anyone cryo'd their input shaft? I'm sure this is a cheaper alternative to billet but someone mentioned it and I'm curious.