2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I thought I had this figured out, but is the KDP an issue on the 24valvers?! I've seen a kit fix for it on some website, but couldn't find one on genos, vulan or anywhere else. I thought this was only an issue on the 12v

Update 10/15/15! The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High idle switches are for sale again in the Forum store

I already have the fass titanium 150 but when my truck reaches half a tank it starts acting unlike most post are about the 1/4 tank issue mine is the 1/2 tank issue. I have noticed that with a full tank I get 16 psi on my fuel gauge but once it's half a tank it ranges from 15-21 psi which I have been told that u either need a needle valve or a snubber due to not having either or which is that correct? And would the sump kit or suction tube help my 1/2 tank issue thanks

I am having a problem with the overdrive button. Most times I have to press it numerous times to get it to engage. What's the fix?

I am not the original owner. I didn't install the FASS HD. The pickup looks stock, and I can't see a draw straw. I am thinking of putting one in as I need to replace my fuel level sending unit anyway. Is there any way to tell? After looking through google images and on Rockauto for pictures, I really couldn't tell any big difference. All the photos I see have a 4 prong plug. The only big difference is that some of the in tank pumps have a squat hockey puck looking filter on the top of the pickup.

This is my first post and I have been looking around on here but haven’t found anything like my problem. I'm looking for any help. I have a 99 Ram 3500. Some times when you turn the ignition switch on the wait to start light comes on and the lift pump does not but the truck will start immediately. I checked the voltage at the stock lift pump connector and their is 6-7 VDC until the truck is started then it jumps to 12 VDC. Other times when you turn the ignition switch on the wait to start light does not come on and the lift pump does not turn on and the truck will crank but will not start. After about 15-25 seconds the wait to start like and lift pump turn on and the t…

Hello All, I'm new to the forum, but have used this sites detailed articles quite extensively to learn more about my truck, and to troubleshoot my issues. (A quick thank you to any and all who have contributed to the site, as it is very well put together.) Having said all that, I seem to have run out of road on my own, and need to ask a question for the sake of clarity and specificity to my problem. The truck is an '01 2500 automatic with about 250,00 on the odometer. To go all the way back to my initial issue, I started getting dead pedal symptoms with a P0216 code, and fluctuating fuel pressure (sometimes 15PSI, sometimes about 7PSI depending on time of day and signi…

So I'm not entirely sure if this is even an issue or not but it is something I've noticed. It first came to my attention after installing the high idle mod, although I can't say for certain that's what caused it, or if that's when it started. Anyways, my issue is that I no longer get a 'prime' when turning the key and waiting for the WTS light to go out. Before I would turn the key, hear the pump prime for about 5 seconds, or just long enough to build to about 15-17psi and then cut off, shortly after the WTS light would extinguish and I'd fire her up. I'm not sure if it's just getting colder outside so its harder to prime or what. I did bump it and it ran through the…

So... before I go spending too much more time and money on the truck I wanted to get an idea of engine health. Didn't want to spend the $300 on compression adapter and guage ..... so manometer. My results were 2" at 2200 and 3" at 2800 .... Problem is this I s about NEW engine spec .... so I think some things astray. Most obvious would be too much venting somewhere .... but my front gear vent is blocked off .... And I run a dual billet side tappet.... 1 was blocked. Other was blocked with 15/64 hole. Measured from dipstick with clear tubing .... pics to come. Any ideas of where I'm venting or ....??

Here it goes...first new topic! Well I finally ordered a FASS150 and a draw straw 5 yesterday from DAP! I have a 2000 2500 5speed 4x4 unfortunately with Dodge's intank pump "fix". I'm looking to tap into the wealth of knowledge here to see if anyone has any tips or tricks for the install? Past experience or things anyone may have done differently? Thanks in advance for any advice everyone!

MY 5.9 has had a issue starting sometimes, will crank but no start! If i tap the injector pump with a hammer while cranking she starts. I installed a fass 150 over 5 years ago she still shows good fuel PSI while running. Also installed new injector pump at 85000 miles 4 years ago.

On some start ups it will blow some white/blue haze (smells like oil) smoke for a few seconds as the EGT rises. Also, if I sit and idle for extended periods, like 5min, when i continue driving it will blow the same color smoke as soon as my egt rises above 500-600. Once it burns the oil out, it doesn't come back, and the truck runs the same smoking or not. The truck runs fine, and uses some oil, but not much... Mabe a quart every 2500 miles at the most. i haven't actually measured it. I am wondering if I am getting excessive oil going down my exhaust valves, and coating the exhaust... either from worn guides or worn seals. I am going to have the rock…

Ok i just got done swapping the nv5600 from a early to late model i installed a new clutch and fly wheel from autozone (dont have funds for a south bend) but now the padel is soft till right before the floor then it releases but dont seem to release fully cluth hydros were no opend but hang under truck for a month waiting on new trans could this hace messes them up

Ok cooler weather here and after truck sits for 2 or more days I get a P0122 DTC 3-5 seconds after start. the code is low volt at APPS. I can clear code and it will stay away until the grid heaters cycle after start. I had batteries load tested atl. is good. The batts are 5 years old. All connections are clean and tight. If started and heaters don't cycle then no code.

Have an 01 5 speed , super chips, fass 150 running 15ish psi, 7x10s. Lately it's been running like crap. Smoking like a freight train through all the gears. If I ease into it into 3rd and 4th shifting about 2200rpm it just lays a cloud, same between 55 and 75 in 5th. Never done this before. No boost gauge or egt gauge so I can't tell if there is any change there. I've changed all my filters in the last 800 miles. Turbo has no play and my boots all seem good. My fuel mileage dropped from about 18 to 19, down to around 14 or 15, hand calculated. Any ideas? I've got smaller injectors on the way just because. But I'm not 100% convinced that's the issue.

I've have a 1999 Cummins with 111k and have owned for almost 8 months and temperatures are starting to go down some here in north Texas and I new to owning a diesel I have down all the main things recommended for the 24v. I drive my truck as a daily driver and gave some fun in it and now with the temps dropping I have heard its normal if truck white smokes little to none in the morning when first started for about 1 min and clears up. Truck to seems to run fine and today when setting at Idle I noticed if I normally give it some gas while sitting parked a little smog of black smoke comes out but today it seemed to be white but it's only when I give it some gas while sitti…

2nd gen 24 valve going into a 1967 jeep truck need help with wiring i have the 2000 dodge donner truck it come out of i am just trying to figure out the best way to wire it up

WWwwwwooorrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz! So, last winter, I got this weird buzz from my block heater, and a very high current draw to the heater. Popped a CB in the house. And, like any true American would do, I reset the breaker and plugged that puppy back in! I haven't used it since though. I Ohmed the plug, and couldn't find any leaks and summer was coming so I didn't worry about it. I was thinking of replacing the thing soon. Has anybody had this issue?

I've travelled a total of 255k miles now and been keeping up on my coolant flushing. This batch was over extended and shows it in the bucket the color was starting to shift just wee bit. As for the radiator and block still going strong and very clean! Still using universal yellow coolant and doing just fine. Don't need any fancy orange HOAT. Lookie... No scale build up!!! 255k miles and like a factory fresh radiator. Block is even clean yet and just a surface rust like back from my previous picture shoot.

So I finally got around to trying to fix the 4wd engage in my truck. For the past couple years I just had to pull it out and drain the vacuum actuator to get it going again, but this time the rod that slides the coupler over is bent. I figure, no big deal, I will run over to oreilly's and get a new one. I got there only to get the shock that they wanted $90 for the cheapo chinese one. A quick look online shows a couple for 60-70, but still. So question is do I bite the bullet and just replace the actuator or do I po the posi lock method for $159 ish? I think jegs has one for 109 right now. Anyone been here and done that? Nick