2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I don't know if anyone is running an enviroguard breather out there, but I just picked one up, and I need to figure out how to get the unused dipstick plug out to install the oil return line. I understand that different plugs were used over the years. Mine appears not to have a lip on it at all, and is just a cylindrical plug pressed in. Any ideas how I should remove it?

I have been experiencing dead pedal some times it is as soon as I take off other times I can drive for 30 min before any bucking happens. I have already replaced the APPS with a new one and it worked fine for about a week or more then it started again. What could be the cause of this to make the sensor keep going out?

Hi Cummins Mopar Fans, Just wanted to give an update on my auto to 6 speed swap. I couldn't be happier. First off, I had everyone on here giving me things to try over the last eight (8) years to help me get my automatic problems solved, gear hunt fix, something like 6 altenators, ground cleaning, let alone hundreds of hours researching trying to find a cure. I want to thank Whie98Lightning for suggesting a swap after he sent me a diagram for the TC lockup switch. Mine even wanted to hunt w the switch on. Like he told me & I agree, that (the switch) was the only thing I could do to keep driving the truck. Also, all the deap pedal issues are gone, the truck seem…

What size Tube or pipe do I need for connecting BHAF to the TURBO Boot?? I've been running it for years without one and just soft clamping it over the lip on the BHAF but now i don't think that such a good idea after my latest turbo compressor wheel issues. Compressor wheel was pitted and DAMAGED BY WATER as was told to me by ATS.

Ok, so I bought this truck a few months ago. It was about 4 hours away so I had it shipped home after I went and looked at it. I got a great deal on it. The transmission was completely gone so I ordered a Firepunk Street/Strip trans. It also ended up having a burnt valve which was unexpected. After comparing pricing with machine work and/or just purchasing a new a head I went with a new loaded head from Promaxx. I swapped out the stock valve springs for Hamilton 103lb vavle springs and used ARP Head studs in place of the factory head bolts. Everything is good there. So now after the transmission, head, starter and wheel bearing were all replaced I'm having an issue with …

I had to put OEM filter box back in... mice promptly moved in, trashed filter element. So today I screened the filter with aluminum expander metal & self drill / self tap screws Long ago I used SS pot scrubber behind the hood hinges... where the cowl drains are. Water drains just fine but mice can't get into the heater.

Ok my 2000 nv5600 just died it has a broke gear and what looks to be broken syncro pieces laying in the bottom, the fluid was full and i was not towing i was in traffic at a light and it locked up, now i have a choice to make do i put $3000 in for i 5600 or convert to a nv4500 if i convert i know ill need the trans and bellhousing,flywheel, clutch and drive shafts. My question is will the 4500 bolt in place and will my tc bolt up and where can i find cheep drive shafts they are hard to find here

I'm sick of my isolator that goes to my ispro fuel pressure guage. Every so often I get low readings and I have to push back the rubber thingy in the isolator and fill it back up to get it to read right. Would it be safe to eliminate the isolator and have diesel go all the way to the gauge?

2000 with Raptor 150, Edge JWA, full 1/2" line from tank to VP, S&B intake. After sitting, she cranks and cranks (5-12 seconds) before starting, and then billows white smoke. I haven't noticed missing coolant so I don't think I'm losing compression via a bad headgasket. Had a bad starter that I replaced and oddly enough a bad vp ground at the same time but this didn't fix the issue. So this leads me to believe I'm losing prime since vp issues typically manifest when hot, not when cold. But my lift pump is tied into a toggle switch on the dash. I can turn on the pump and instantly be at 20 psi right before the vp, so even if I had a small leak, i'd push …

So I'm going to replace X-over tube o-rings and I have conflicting info, Book says torque injectors install tubes torque injector lines, I have read on this forum leave injectors loose (snug but not torqued), install tubes, torque lines, then torque injectors? Is one method better than the other? I understand reasoning, to help center tube on injector. Is the book overly confident that one could put the injector in the proper position the first time? I want to hear from people that have done it. Thanks

ok fellas.. ... i searched for kick down threads and i would think there be alot of threads but no... My main issue is i have to kick the overdrive out to jump out of my lane and pass a car. or getting on an onramp once i pick up speed it shifts to soon unless im really pedal to metal. so when its on the last gear in overdrive there is no going back. I dont like hot rodding all over the place but if i want to pass a little honda its embarassing sometimes.. just put in 100 hp injectors, adjusted bands at trans... replaced intercooler boots.... its got power just not going very far at 1100 rpm... thnx guys for ur help

i have a 1999 cummins with 109,956 on it. The truck starts runs and performs awsome and holds its oil pressures and temp perfect, and it doesn't ever smoke no white blue or black. MY issue is that it has a straight pipe on it and its only 3 inch due to the muffler and cat rotted and removed due to lack of funds to replace them, and now the truck has what sounds like a tick that comes out of the tail pipe. And mostly only when idle. the motor bay is quite with no ticking or knocking anyone have any clue. ps this is my first cummins so i dont know what it should sound like.

While bleeding my rear brakes in the spring I noticed that the back of my muffler had rusted out and the section of pipe going over the axle was dangling by the hangers. I bought a 4" Diamond Eye w/no muffler and a FTE 4"X30" Resonator. I also bought a few preformed band clamps from FTE, I wasn't sure how many I would need, I ordered 8. The old system came out easy, I sprayed the bolts securing the downpipe to the turbo with PB Blaster a couple of times before starting the install. And I had no problem getting them out. The exhaust kit was great, all of the hangers in the kit were correct. The resonator does come with band clamps on each side, I didn't re…

This is my first time reaching out to a forum for help. So please be patient with me. My 2001 Dodge has me stumped. Sorry about being long winded. My truck right now so underpowered it is unusable. 2 years ago noticed a significant loss of power. The truck threw the VP44 code. I bought a remanufactured VP44 from alligator performance in ID & changed out the lift pump. I put on about 100 miles and everything appears normal. I then loaned my tuck to a friend to tow some stuff about 800 miles. During his trip, he received a stellar deal on some fuel from Mexico. From looking at the fuel filters I guessing it was mud mixed with a little diesel. After suspect…

I have to pull my head, and the hoist I had lined up fell through. I can either a new or used 1 ton HF hoist, and am wondering if it will reach our motors. I'm only using it to pull the head, as it's just me, and there are no handy trees around me to help.

Okay, so I have been having trouble with the truck recently. If I let it sit longer than a day, I have to cycle the lift pump to prime to get the truck to fire. Takes a couple tries before it will fire too. If I drive it daily, no problem. I've posted recently about this sort of problem. Today, I primed by cycling the lift pump doing a bump start. Cranked and tried to pop off once. Every time after, no go. So I primed 3 times no go. Then I cracked the injector lines and primed multiple times, no go. I've done everything I think of to try to get it to fire. I have fuel supply to the injection pump, but anything after the pump, dry. Scan gauge show no codes.…

So, the truck runs, but not great. I get the puff of black smoke when it first starts, but under acceleration, I start seeing big black smoke I've not seen before. the truck is stock, with the exception of an Airdog 150, and has about 340k miles. the injector are stock, and I've lost power recently. I'm not sure if the power loss is due to the injectors being worn, or the fact that my RPM will go to zero, and the pump misses, like an ECU connection issue. when the RPM gauge is working, the truck has power, when the RPM gauge goes to zero, and hard acceleration makes it almost roll coal, with no power. I'm hoping that its a bad connection at the ECU which puts t…

I have a 2002 HO with 241K miles. It has been sitting for the last year or so as I haven't been able to get it running. Was driving along one day and it shut off, never to run again. Overhead reads ccd after about 10 seconds. No start, no wait to start light, no transfer pump. My generic code reader doesn't indicate any codes present. I have messed around with it on and off for the last year or so, trying about everything in every forum I've found. As I'm writing this, I have every module disconnected (except overhead) and no difference. Initially I had around 1 volt to ground on each of the bus terminals. At the moment, it's up to about 2.5v on each terminal. …

So I've decided on the 4in DE exhaust. I've heard nothing but good things and buying from a local and US made product is always a good thing IMO. A couple questions... When the exhauat says it comes with a "muffler replacement" is that the equivalent of muffler delete? Also I'd rather not use my stock exhaust clamps, what are some good clamps I could get and how many would I need? Thanks in advance!

Im reinstalling my turbo and O-Ring on Oil inlet fitting ( one that braided line from oil filter housing connects to ), is shot. does any body know what the size is or is it OEM Specific .. this is the oil inlet fitting on the center cartridge of the Turbo.