2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm replacing my transfer pump the one on the truck is not the original one,I bought a FASS DDRP 02.The suction is a different style fitting,it seems like a stainless tubing with a quick connect,did anybody ever experience that,to adapt the FASS pump I need to cut the stainless pipe and adapt some kind of a fitting ,in my package they sent me 2 banjo fittings /filter/rubber hose.Not sure what pump they had in there,the suction tubing must have been replaced that quick coupler seems like a good set up,it would be a waste to remove it.:duh:How can I attach pics to my thread

I bought a front seal from cummins and not totaly sure of my self. Is the way I have them stacked the way it goes together? The middle ring is like a seal also, I figured it helps hold the top ring in place while you tap it down. Should I use a little oil on the crank to help it slide on?

This thread over on CDF Q asked what causes ring breakage? I'm not sure how true it is but one reply states that engine oil cools pistons but fuel lubes upper cylinder / rings. This is interesting in light of fuel lubricosity of ULSD vs ULSD + TCW3. I just wanted to bring this discussion to everyone's attention.

Should I get the kit to resleve or just new seals? Also any videos on the subject?

I have pulled my valve cover about 3 times in the past several months trying to track down where a ticking noise is coming from. I think I have narrowed the tick down to the very back no.6 exhaust valve. I don't think it's normal to be able to hear this sort of ticking from inside the cab when applying the gas. I noticed this tick around 25,000 miles on the truck & right now it only has a little under 40,000.This last time that I pulled the valve cover I found the valve to be out of adjustment & so I tightened it up. Before I adjusted it I pulled up and down on the rocker I was kind of surprised but there seemed to be a small amount of movement between the roc…

I am assuming you can't pull the vp and the vaccum out at the same time?

Which way does it turn? If your looking at it from standing in front of bumper.I have done this several times and it does not want to turn.

What should I beware of when removing this cover? I have a leak back there and have never had one off. Do I need special tools to remove pulley? Cant spell harmonic balancer:doh:

Hello Everyone! I am new to the cummins motor so bear with me! I purchased a 2002 dodge 2500 with 80 k on it three months ago and now its time to upgrade.... I have purchased a Airdog 100 fuel pump and Quadzilla XZT+ programmer.... Now with being new to the cummins motor I am unfamiliar with the location of the map senor and data link... If anyone could point me in the right direction i would certainly appreciate any help!

Anybody got any fan wrenches I could borrow?

I'm getting ready to channge my wheel bearings and front axle u joints. What size socket is the front axle nut?Any other pointers for doing this job would also be appreciated. Thanks

2000 dodge ram 5.9 cummins, manual trans, stock except the air cleaner. Starts and runs fine 99.9% of the time and then 4 times in the last couple months it cranks but will not start. Put the tow rope on it in third gear let out clutch fires right up and runs good. I put new batteries,new ign.switch. There are no codes. You don't know when it will do it again until it happens. The fuel pressure is 10 to12 psi. It started this since it got cold this winter. I live in AK. Any ideas. Thanks 3 of the times the engine was farely cold once the truck was hot shut off for fifteen minutes and come back wouldn't start. Thanks

Truck started not only hard, but funny,(like having to crack 3 injector lines),but would'nt catch after lines were closed. Checked codes,P0602 came up,cleared,no problem since.What could have caused this?:banghead:

I went to the codes section but these are not listed over there 0628 0529 0541 0483 I was just told that all this # start with a P so I guess they are pcm codes

Time to replace all of my battery cables. So my question is where is the best place to buy new battery cables? If I can find someone around here that makes cables what is a good size of cable to replace mine with? I dont like replacement ends so I want all new cables. Thank you in advance.

It's using a quart about every 40 miles right now. The whole underside of the truck is oiled and when I'm stopped I can see dripping around the inspection cover. I'm thinking pump seal. Is there something more common that I'm overlooking? The other kicker is that I can't fix it til I get home, and that won't be for like 12 days. I'm also going to be towing my 34' 13,000 pound 5th wheel home... Another question: at the rate it's burning through fluid, can I just dump cheaper DexIII/Merc in there? I'm going to be putting in a new converter when I get back, and doing a full fluid change.

I was given an 02 QC 2wd. It sat under a carport for 2 yrs due to the young man that it was given to not having any interest in it. We pressurized the fuel tank and got fuel up to the VP44. I cracked the return line and ran the pump until fuel ran out of it. Then I cracked the 1, 3&4 injectors. With two hot batteries she turns over with authority, but no fuel reaches the injectors. I am used to working on 12v engines, and know little about diagnosing the Vp44. Could the electronics be bad in the IP? The truck was running fine when it was parked. Thanks in advance for your help!Chris

I was bring it home and the only way I had was to lay it on the passanger side on tires. Now I have oil everywhere in the trailer. I know it is leaking from the oil filter because I can see it's coming from the top where the seal is. At first I thought oh crap it's leaking passed rings and coming out the exhaust, but I started thinking its going to be on its side all night. So you think it will leak passed, because I am thinking if it does I am going to need to pull injectors and blow out each cylinder.

I got a guy that has been in touch with me by email and been trying to figure out his CCD Bus problems. So far nothing I suggested works. Currently he can see the 2.5 and 2.4 vold bias voltage at the OBDII port he's only got the ECM and PCM plugged in to the bus all other modules (Radio, ABS, AirBag, etc.) are unplugged to try and isolate the problem. But still it will not communicate... The engine will start and run... Tachometer functions but all other gauges are dead. No AirBag or ABS lights... But unable to read error codes at all. I'm hoping one of you might have an idea...

99 Dodge 24 valve. Had the lift pump changed to teh tank about 5 years ago. Threw a Injection pump code and intermittant flat pedal and put in a new injection pump just before Christmas...HoHoHo. The code returned along with the flat pedal and the shop says my fuel is antifreeze green and my level is down in the radiator. Apparently the fuel return goes throguh the head and there it is picking up antifreeze? I have had this truck 7 years, bought it used. I am meticulous about watching the temp, and have never over heated it, and do not over rev it. Now I apparently need a new head? Only 125,000 miles. Ever hear of such a thing? Any options out there? Color me f…