2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I have one of the 50 gallon aux fuel tank/toolbox units in the truck. Got it used off of Craigslist and really like it.Now one thing is that I still have not gotten around to hooking the electrics up on the critter. Does anyone know if there is any way to bypass all the electronics that come with it and just put power to the pump and pump the fuel into the main tank? We hooked up the fuel tank lines when installing it but frankly had spent enough time under the truck already when doing the Raptor lift pump and did not get into the wiring from the fuel level sending gauge on the main tank that the TF computer needs to work. Everything else appears to be pretty straight for…

I am considering using Luke's link to rebuild my track bar and tie rod ends. My criteria as always is, the best possible improvement for the money. Is anyone A where of a better solution when compared to the cost. In other words, buying all new components such as a track bar for $300 may be a better solution, but certainly not as frugal. Besides the Luke's link appears to be a permanent solution whereas a new factory or aftermarket track bar may be a temporary solution.

The weather is soon going to be hot here in the low country of SC, and the inside of my cab won't be any cooler. Here's the issue: Most of the time (95%), my A/C just blows hot air regardless of where the temperature control knob is. If I have been driving for a while, especially on the highway, the A/C might start blowing nice cold air. I never get too excited because soon after that, I will hear a single pop noise under the hood and the air gets hot again. This pop noise usually occurs when I am slowing down. I'm not sure if that is just coincidence, though. I know nothing about a/c systems, but it is killing me not even knowing what is causing this. Any an…

My front shocks are worn out and I plan on replacing them with fox 2.0s and was thinking of coupling them with either thuren 2"or 3" coils. Not looking for any crazy lift, just a little more travel. My front end sits 3" lower than the rear and the thuren coils spec to 2.75" vs 3.75". Anyone have experience with those coils with a ranch hand brush guard on the front? Figuring it will take it down an inch Much appreciated

As the title says all my heat and ac are going to defrost. My vacuum lines are all connected and I have vacuum at the pump, at the 90 on the fire wall and at the 90 that turns into the firewall to the hvac. I do not have vacuum at the switch. I cannot seem to find a pin out, for lack of a better term, for the connection to the controls. I am assuming the black tube is the one supplying vacuum to the controls. Not sure that matters since I can feel no vacuum at any point on the connector. I am seriously thing of capping the line at the passenger side firewall and just bringing a new one thru the driverside straight to the connector. Does any one know if that supply line co…

So I just moved to a new place that's located exactly 1.7 miles from my parking spot at work. (Good and bad I guess) I am thinking of buying a new vehicle, but that's not really what id like to do.. With winter coming around, is this short drive there and short drive back going to hurt my truck? I've always got my truck up to operating temperature before shutting off, but now I have no choice really. Should I buy another vehicle to drive on those short trips? My last question is this: how often should I drive the dodge if I do buy a new vehicle, the dodge will be the 2nd driver. I'd like to keep miles off of it, but a car payment is just not what I need right …

Hey guys. Sorry to write another thread, but I'm needing to get some things fixed and need a little help. 1st: powersteering pump. So Genos garage has a new, not rebuilt borgeson steering pump for my truck. I believe its 800328. I've thought about just resealing mine, but there is more going on to it than I think a re-seal will do. Fluids smell burnt, its leaking, and it whines and groans prett bad, especially in the morning. 258k miles I'm sure it's about done. They have the same pump on amazon, but the reviews arent pretty. So I'm not sure what to do here, I dont want to take a risk and buy a piece of crap. While it's out, I'll be …

I am working with my local stereo shop to map out installing a complete stereo system. Back in the day I was really big into car stereo systems. At one point right after high school my Toyota Celica (Early 1990's) had 8 12in sub, a pair of Orion HCCA amps, Zapco 18 band eq, etc....Needless to say it would rock and produce some db's..I think it measured 143db.Anyway, we already installed a pair of new 6x9's in the front doors...What a difference a quality speaker makes. I used the PR series from Memphis Car Audio. This coming week we will complete the speaker upgrade with some 6in in the quad doors. Future plans a downward fire box under the rear seat that hold 2 10in subs…

I bought a set of 2014 18" take off alloy rims w/tires off craigs list. I thought they would be a nice upgrade from my steel wheels with bald tires. I understand the lugs wouldn't fit, but thought the rims would. To make the rear fit, they need to be spaced out for the rims to clear in the rear. Anyone have any advice on the size of the spacers I need and where to buy them? Thanks again, Philo

Anybody have air bags? What my problem is truck weight is almost 10k, (welding truck) and it is heavyer on one side than the other. Will air bags help? I am afraid they wont straighten it up leaning on one side.Any thoughtsThanks

If you are looking for gauges for your Dodge Cummins truck, you need to decide what type that you want. Do you want mechanical or electronic. Both have their good and bad points. You are the one who needs to decide as to what type of gauges that you want. You can ask for opinions as to who likes theirs the best, yet you are the one purchasing the gauge set. The necessary gauges needed for a stock truck are: Fuel Pressure, EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), Boost, and for Automatic Transmission owners, Trans. Temp. FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE A gauge that goes from 0 – 30 psi will do fine. Is using an electronic gauge, you need either a snubber hose and or a needle…

my owners manual calls for 75w/90 gear oil for the front and rear diff. is there any reason that you cannot use 80w 90 gear oil insted. the reason i ask is 80w 90 is plentiful. i can get it in gallon jugs, quart bottles whatever. 75w 90 only comes in quart bottle here and finding 5 in one store is almost impossible. just wondering what you guys think.

Like the title says, has anyone ever done or heard of this being done? I have to change out speed sensors which are hidden under the rotor which is behind the unit bearing............:banghead:. You get the idea. I sure wish mine were like the later models.

Howdy I understand there is a screw that will tighten up the play in my steering. Anyone know where and what the proceedure is? It gives me just enough play that driving it is not as relaxing as it should be, im always always all over the road. thanks Mark

I compiled this video to better explain how to check U joints. Think I pretty much explained everything in the video. If you take them apart, use a dead blow hammer, NOT a regular hammer, you can bend the yoke and then the U joint bearings will not line up. Sometimes it becomes necessary to use a regular hammer but be extra careful where you hit! Make sure you put threadlocker on the 8mm bearing caps, mine have come loose on me and I have heard reports of the same thing happening to others. I found a very detailed website if you want to learn more about all the driveshaft components. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/ http-~~-//www.youtube.com…

Hi all I redid my terminals last winter and conversion to Military terminals. Now the Batteries are showing their age. Time for replacements. West Coat Central Valley TIA Michael So looking online Amazon offer Optima's for $199 720 amps Batteries plus 750 CCA Group 27 for $149 + 20% off and a $10 mail in rebate. Kind of answers my question. Thinking of selling and getting along wheelbase.

Last week switched to defrost now I can't get the A/C to come out the dash vents, air is all directed to the floor, When on A/C I checked the actuator that's behind the glove box, it has vacuum and draws the vent closed. The actuator toward the firewall also has vacuum and works, the lower actuator that has two vacuum lines has no vacuum. Any one know if the lower actuator should have vacuum and to which line?

I hope someone can shed some light on this issue for me. On my 99 3500 2wd last year I put all new brake hardware on the truck. Rotor/hubs, calipers, pads and this weekend had to put a new drum, wheel cylinder and shoes on one side in the rear. What happens is that just recently the truck started shaking, bouncing when applying brakes from a speed above 50 or so. Yesterday I pulled the front wheels and checked the rotor runout and the passenger side is only about .001" but the driver side is right at .007" runout on the face. Also looks like some hot spots on both rotors also. I put high end pads on the truck. Will the cheaper pads run cooler? Is tha…

So its been busy this weekend...ball joints Friday and Saturday. First time I've ever done them, wasn't horrible once I figured it out, but having to take the hubs apart to get to them was a PITA!!!! I want to know if a 2001 outer knuckle will fit on a 96 axle....Then, the Redhead steering box showed up on Saturday. I really didn't want to jump right back into it after dealing with ball joints for about 15 hours total, Friday and Saturday, but since losing my brakes and steering due to vacuum has become a daily occurrence, I dove into it today. Replaced the steering gearbox, rebuilt the vacuum pump (twice, since I put a seal in wrong the first time, replaced the lowe…

Ok gang... I've got a good one. My interior light in the center of the cab is out and so is my power mirrors. Now everyone is going to jump and say to check fuses. Been there and done that the IOD fuse for that circuit is fine because the glovebox light and the overhead console (map lights) and cargo bed lights work. When I pulled C203 all the light went out. So power is good to that point. Now I'm trying to find S310 but the FSM lists S310 as N/S (not seen). What is weird the Cargo light in the top of the cab work. So the only thing I can figure is the S310 splice has broke loose and dropped the dome light and the power mirror on me. Is it possible there is this G304 in…