2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Well... after finally getting the rear brake problems under control about a month ago.. my front started acting up (noticeably) as of yesterday. When I bought this truck back in September... the previous owner was replacing the front passenger caliper the day I was picking it up. Said it was sticking. When I had the front hard lines replaced back in.. I think.. November... I had the front pads replaced (both sides - with Adaptive) because they were considerably more wore down than the driver's side as the previous owner didn't replace when he did caliper. Fast forward to yesterday and today as I started to hear scraping/grinding and …

Well it's time for a new track bar. Just wondering what you guys would recommend.

Alright, so me being an ex-GMC/Chevy owner, I was all too wary of how Dodge went about doing their door hinges and pins. So far, they seem to be a pretty stout setup. Although, I have one qualm about their system. You can;t service them! Their pins are pressed on the ends. I have no idea how I could ever seperate the door from the hinges unless I were to destroy the pins. How I could ever get pins to work again is an idea I can't wrap my head around.My reason for getting on the soap box is because the bushing for the door limiter arm is shot to the point that my door creaks upon opening and closing. Does anyone know how to remedy this and/or has someone come out with an "…

I have to wiggle and giggle the key switch so the dinger dont stay on all the time, even with the key out. Same dinger as when you leave the lights on and open the door. Any ideas?

Just thought I would post up real quick about an issue I was having with my tow mirrors. First off, my truck is a non power truck so needless to say I did not purchase power mirrors which have more "stuff" behind the mirror part and do not vibrate as bad. Anyway, like I said, I had a lot of vibration sitting at idle or traveling down the road, so I decided to take the mirror apart and sound deaden the back of the mirror to absorb some of the shake. Took me about 1 hour between being anal about it and shooting the bull with my bud that was changing his oil...Here is what mine looked like off the base after I placed the "Cool It" acoustical suppressor mat on. …

I suddenly have no sound from front or rear left speakers. Any ideas before I tear into it?

I'm about ready to address some typical steering sloppiness in my 02 before it gets worse. Who here has installed a red head steering gear box and can provide some feedback? All comments I've read on various forums and videos I've watched are favorable on these boxes. Also heard about Blue Top as another provider. Thanks

What are those two wires/ cables going down to the front of skid plate for? Under the trans they are attached to the skid plate. I came down my road with my clock and radio station display not showing. So I noticed ice build up on top of the skid plate with two wires also surrounded in ice. After carefully removing the packed snow, I turned on the ignition and the clock /station display sort of fisseled back into action. Anyone know what else they go to? Not a very good location for grounds if that's what they are. T.I.A.

Was driving the other day and noticed my overhead console display going haywire. I've had it on the fuel economy display lately & was pleased to see my mileage creep up with the warmer temps (got up to 19.7 mpg). Suddenly the numbers started to increase rapidly, about 2 tenths every second, then more like 2 mpg per second. The number kept on spooling up until it hit 99.9 then it stopped there. While it was spooling up I scrolled through the different displays & saw the miles to empty reading spooling real fast too. A few moments after it hit 99.0 I did a reset while I continued driving: it came back down to 2 mpg and then started to increase again but at a much s…

I got off work drove to School to pick up my kids and now it will not start. turn on ignition for the wait to start engine light but no display on dash. no dash lights, radio as well. heater fan works and comes on as well as the Chime. Can call me at 503-522-6462 my name is john

A friend of mine came across a brand new, in the box, Borgeson Model #800120 quick ratio steering box. Is it worth getting without the steering column or pump to go with it? Will it work with stock steering column and pump?

so i finally found a use for my old electric lift pump. using it as an oil extractor for oil changes. works like a champ, tested it on the bmw. got all of it out (6.5qts) in about 5 minutes. so no more back breaking “get under things” to change oil.

So I picked up a Revtek 2" leveling kit last night and now I want to get some air bags so the rear doesn't sit lower than the front with a load on. What brand are you guys running? I like the look of the Firestone 2220 no drill kit. But I found a Airlift kit local that is new in the box for $300 obo. The only issue is it is an outboard kit between the frame and the tire and is a smaller bag than the Firestones, I just want the best ride possible for the least money...lol Not asking for much am I?

My power steering pump went out, started to loose braking power on wadsworth, pulled over and power steering was gone! I have my small tool box with me but need any help I can get! Call me at 970-531-7137 Thanks Sarah

Pretty sure I’ve narrowed it down to the window seal leaking and thats how water is getting in the cab. On the back seat and window. But only when it rains hard. ive resealed the 3rd brake light and cab lights with silicone, new door seals, window seals, windshield seal, cab seals, and quad cab door seals. has anyone removed the window? I found a seal online but have no idea how to remove and replace.

Has Any one use these? https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B01FI6IKG6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1515103297&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=wire+splice+12+gauge+butt+connectors&psc=1 Ive seen the crimp kind that you can heat shrink seal after you crimp. .

Hi.. I have factory fog lights installed on my truck that didn't have em. I have them wired to a toggle. I'd like to have them wired to my headlight switch if it's not too complicated. It seems I have a connector under the radiator that I'm guessing would go to the fogs. Is this correct? And.. I would need the push/pull switch. If I got one... would it be plug and play? What's involved in swapping the switches.. do I need to dismantle the entire dash? Would I need a harness and switch specific to my year? I'm adding another set of fogs to the front and lights to the back and would like to keep toggle switches to a minimum. Thanks in advance...

Hi Guys, I noticed that my four wheel drive light is always on but dimly lit. The 4wd drive actuator and switch are fully functional. I have provided the wiring diagram in the following link. The 4wd is switched on the ground side of the circuit. I have power after the switch but loose it before the abs sensor switch and at the 4wd light connection to the dash. i believe that i have a leaking ground, broken wire, or bad connection either before or at joint connector no. 3. does anyone know where this is located? Thanks. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/antilock-brake-system/4w-abs-2.jpg

02 2500 CTD. Dealer replaced the front brakes (calipers and rotors I think) before I bought it. My first impression was that the pedal felt firm and the brakes were smooth and responsive and 99.5% of the time they are. It seems like the ABS is kicking in on occasion under heavier braking. Not knowing the ABS feel in this truck, I would describe the pedal as getting harder to push, downward pedal motion becomes jerky, there is more of a grinding noise than the ABS whir I am used to, and decreased braking performance. I have to try some more things to reproduce it but it seems that being pointed downhill, first brake application after start up, braking when making hard…

I recently inspected my ball joints & they are toast. All the boots are torn/missing, the lowers have about 1/4" play, and the uppers aren't far behind. Not sure if they are OEM, but all the aftermarket ball joints I have seen come with a zerk fitting & these are sealed units (190K on the truck). I can't afford to pay a shop to do the job so I plan to do it myself. I have a fair ammount of experience in auto repair, replaced ball joints on smaller vehicles, and have some front end experience with this truck; had to replace the front rotors/hubs when I bought the truck - yea, those 100lb cast iron lumps! I'm pretty well tooled-up (jacks & stands, air tools, 3/…