2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hey, I have a 2nd gen and the driver side e-brake Return spring has been worn from not being attached within the drum.Just got off the phone with Dodge and they say they do not make this part and the parts store says the part is dealer only.What is it actually called and what is the part number?Where can I get one?

Does anyone have a parts breakdown or diagram of the vacuum lines? All of my vacuum line fittings are dry rotted and I want to replace all of them. I'm going to call the dealer today but in the past they always seem to be a little lost when it comes to the diesel trucks.

Geez... I'm not getting break here. Well just finished my gauge project and now found my first crack in my dash on the passenger side of the truck. I was doing a bit of surfing the forum and links of dash providers seem to of gotten old so I'm going to ask all you what you used for dash replacement, caps, etc.

Ok guys this is starting to drive me nuts. When I use the keyless remote to unlock my truck it occasionally sets the alarm off (3 long honks). It doesn't do it all the time but of course usually at 6:30 am when I'm going to work. It's not like the short honk when locking it but 3 long ones. Has anyone experienced this or know why? I thought it might be the remote but it does it with both of them. I have taken the remote apart and put tape over the contacts for the panic button to disable that and it still happens. Not happening all the time is what has me baffled. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thx D

Hey guys sorry to bring this up again! I have searched and haven’t found answers to my questions! So I would like to upgrade my stock headlights. I have ruled out hids because of price and all. I think I would like to do the sport light upgrade. I need someone to post a link to lights they have bought and love!! I’m looking for smoked stockbstyle headlights but don’t have to have them. Now my question is if I do this swap is it completely plug and play? If inget a Geno,s Britebox is this goin to work well with this setup? Thanks guys!! I found a sport wiring harness and britebox together at Genos has anyone used this ? Is it good quality? If I get that all I w…

Picked these up locally last night for $400. Came off a 2012 with under 10k miles on them. Been looking for a while and have not had any luck locally until these babies showed up on Craigslist on Monday. So after working 13 and a half hours yesterday I jumped in the truck and drove an hour and a half each way. He had someone coming to look at them this morning and I didnt want to chance missing out on them. So my question is can I use my lug nuts on the new wheels? What are you guys with 4th gen wheels using?

I'm curious if anyone has a picture of a steering column mounted gauge on a 2nd gen truck? I'm wanting to add a drive pressure gauge and think that would make a good place to mount it but I'm a little worried it will block my view of the speedo?

Ok my son and his friend and I where talking stacks and I said the single slant cut looked good and I was informed that I was,let me see- old, out of touch,senile, that it would'nt look good on my wheel chair. Ok now I am pissed so what do yall think.

Recharged the ac last week got everything up and running fine. On the way home the air went from 40* to 80*. Made a pit stop got back in fired her up and she worked for about an hour or so then back to 80*. Upon further inspection I see that the clutch is turning very slowly and a little jerky like the clutch is fried. What can I check to see if thats the case or just maybe the pressure switch.

I'm not really a fan of seeing a big tip on exhaust or seeing the exhaust pipe at all. So.. a few weeks ago I cut the last few feet of the exhaust for an axle dump. What I didn't realize was how much louder it would be and how much drone and vibration would come as a result. I had a hanger/support installed but its a couple/few feet up from the end. So over the axle.. there's no support. I don't mind it being a little louder but the drone and vibration is driving me nutz <--- no pun intended. Do you think another hanger near the end would help alleviate this.. or no?

Hi, I have a 2001 dodge 3500 Cummins diesel.I have a dead fuel gauge issue that doesn't seem quite like the others that I have researched,so I could use some help. It reads empty at all times, UNLESS I unplug the batteries for 15-20 minutes and let the truck reset. At this time the fuel gauge will read full for about 15 mins, before it slowly drops to empty again and stays there permenantly. Here is what I have done. I have dropped the tank and I have replaced the entire canister/float/fuel level sending unit. I used an volt meter on the new sending unit and as I moved the float up and down I watched the resistance change. I have done the gauge test and watched the g…

OK, I had issues with alternator for awhile. The voltage would be at 10 volts when starting and slowly drop to 8 volts after running. Figured alternator because when when measure withm eter at battery, was only reading 12 volts and it would slowly drop. Tested alternator and tested bad. Replaced. Ran good for week, then same thing. Another bad alternator. Replaced. Checked codes, 1682, 0622,0500,1765,1693, 0501. Figured the pcm isn't seeing whati t needs to see to turn on alternator. I installed the external VR to the firewall, after sandig the paint off (good ground). Wired the blue wire to the Vr, top post, to a switched hot when key is on and added a wire to run to the…

Lately I've been wondering if possibly I've got a problem with my IAT sensor. I haven't gotten any codes but my grid heaters cycle at weird times & I also seem to be getting pretty bad gas mileage. 13-14mpg in town...Sometimes after I drive the truck for a while & it gets up to normal op. tmps I can shut it down, wait 5 minutes, start it back up & my grid heaters start cycling again....Shouldn't the intake manifold have already gotten warm enough that it wouldn't need to cycle the grid heaters again? I live in Alabama too, so it's not like it's cold or anything.... I've already pulled the IAT sensor out & checked it & cleaned it....It wasn't even d…

i am a little confused by this. everything that i read says that my truck should have a 36 gallon tank as standard equipment. but i have never put more than 26 gallons into an empty tank. was there an option for a smaller tank? when the fuel light comes on surely there is not 10 gallons left? i am curious if my guage/sender is reading correctly.

For those that don't have projector headlights, this looks like a fantastic option for LEDs. Even shoots the heat into the housing to melt snow and ice! https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-2-stroke-2stroke-h11-led-bulbs?quantity=1 Drat, wrong link. Here's the 9004/9007 version: https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-2stroke-2-stroke-9007-led-bulbs?quantity=1

Has anybody figured out why track bar failure occurs? This will be the 4th or 5th one that I have had to replace in 170k.... The end that attaches to the cross member is quite loose... If I recall correctly, the last one I replaced was in 2016 at about 160k . It is a Quick Steer brand made of "Forged Steel" according to the manf. Thanks and if You Guys have a recommended unit to buy this time, I am ready to try a different brand. Ed PS: I am a much more mellow driver in my advanced age (53) than I used to be!!

Has anybody installed this without removing the steering column on an automatic? http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ Looking for instructions and feedback.

Ok Gang... I just got my replacement evaporator core from the local NAPA store. (Lifetime warranty - No cost) So when I go to pull the dash out I'm going to grab the video camera and record out the whole affair. Show you that pulling the dash is really easy on a Dodge Ram!

Currently I have a 2" leveling kit installed that consists of 2" steel coil spring spacers and add-a-leafs in the rear. I'm not happy with my ride quality and will be changing some things up to make it right. First up is building a pair of shackle reversal brackets and shackles. This will accomplish two things: 1 - Converting from the stock tension shackle to a compression shackle improves ride quality without sacrificing load capacity. 2 - The added lift will allow the removal of the factory lift blocks and add-a-leafs, resulting in less axle wrap and a smoother ride. A couple of things to take in to account is that as you drop the rear spring mounti…

So my truck runs empty 99% of the time and I would really like to eliminate the "rake" in its stance. When I got the truck it had spacers in the front springs and 35's which as everyone here knows took its toll on the front end components. So I have read that as long as the front spacers are 2" or less that it doesn't have too drastic of effect on front end geometry so hopefully less wear on the track bar etc. But I am contemplating just a shorter block in the rear and maybe adding bags for when I do have a load. I would love to hear everyone's thoughts and ideas on this. I wouldn't mind the rear end being lower for easier loading, etc.