2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I just got done installing my high idle switch. I went to try it out, but nothing happened, I waited for about 10 minutes on each setting as I know it's not an instant thing. I don't think it is the switch as I have a scan gauge and it shows the IAT and ECT values change with each twist of the knob and the TPS voltage was also reading 0. I took the truck in 2 weeks ago to have the TSB for the high idle unlocked, they said to bring it back if it didn't work, but is there anything else I should check before I deal with the dealership again?

Wanting some opinions here on the rusty door problem our rams have. I'm about to drop $1000 on Omni plus paint to put a new paint job on my truck. I have a great body man who is helping me do it right. I'm doing all the grunt work. So my question is what would you do to repair knowing you are trying to put a quality paint job on.

I've noticed on my 1999 24v that the WTS light takes a while to come on. All other lights have come on and off before the WTS light comes on. And there is no cranking the truck without that light coming on. My 12v is not that way.

I ordered the Daniel Stern rik-ram kit, and am trying to install it today, but I'm now too confused after reading so meany threads on so many forums. Question no. 1. The DS upgraded wiring schematic shows a general one with truck with only 1 battery. Shouldn't I use both batteries? My Rik-ram kit came with a bag o parts. 3 relays not 4 like other homemade kits. 2. Is my truck a ground switching system or not? (I pull the knob out to turn my lights on). If yes/no, do I still follow that schematic? 3. Do you know/have any pictures of a built harness that I can follow? I would really appreciate a "Chinese Blueprint". Pictures go a long way for this guy... any help would be g…

So I'm on my 2nd full tank of diesel in my new to me 1999 3500 24v. Each with a bottle of Diesel Kleen (40 gal treatment quantity) and I must say the Diesel Kleen really seems to have quieted the clackety clack down. At $8-$10 per bottle I don't think I will be doing that at every fill up for much longer, but will continue sporadically. I'm certain the previous owner NEVER ran any sort of additive or "helper" fluids so I'm trying to do what I can to get her back in to shape. I am subscribing to what I've read, that 2 cycle oil with TCW3 added to the fuel will help to keep things lubricated, including the lift pump and will hopefully extend the life of it. It makes…

Rust! Yeah, this winter I've not been able to keep up on washing the truck as much as I wanted to. I knew I had a few paint chips in the tailgate from the old canopy. So I'm doing some fix-up work to keep the R word under control. Need to pick up a can of gloss black paint tomorrow when the hardware store is open. The black of the tailgate liner plastic will blend right in with the extended black paint line. You can see I had it paint once with flat black but that is porous.

So this problem has slowly been getting worse, Little run down, beginning of all this. so every time ya go to turn, it makes a squeaking noise, left or right doesn't matter. As time went on, it got a little worse, then when you started turning left, ( still makes the squeaking noise) the steering wheel would tight up, not alot but enough to notice in the wheel and got really annoying, it wouldnt tighten up turning right, normal as could be. Well now it's getting bad, if you go to turn left, it'll pop out of drive into neutral, go to turn right it, it wants to pop out of drive and has, also the gear indicator has been funky, When you go to put into park, the in…

I'm planning to put a 5", turbo back, muffled pipe with a 6" tip on my stock 3500 qc 4x4. I've read the Donalson muffler is the way to go so I'll probably go that route. I'm not looking for loud just like the deep diesel sound. I haven't decided if I will buy a prefab bolt on, or take it to a local muffler shop. I definitely do not want droning or obnoxious loud. Do I need to do anything else or is this a good set up?

After my new paint job is complete, sometime early spring, I'm going to move on to the dash replacement. I've decided I am going to replace dash versus a dash cover glued on. Since I am going that route, the heater core will be accessible. Should I go ahead and replace it too even if it's not leaking? Wasn't sure how widespread the leaky heater core problem is. I have 108k miles.

So my seat swap was a success, but not without a hiccup. The drivers seatbelt will unwind about half an inch and lock. That's as far as it will go! I tried shaking it, beat on the back of the seat, and stuck my pinky finger in trying to find a release. Any ideas on what to try next?

Is there any reason I couldn't/shouldn't switch out my manual seats to power? Need to replace mine and all I've found is electric. Any chance the plug under the seat provides power? I know I'll have to put in a realy/fuse in fuse box, but is there anything else?

So @KATOOM wants to know more about my mystery clunk. When unloaded I have a pretty nasty clunk/crash that can be felt in the floor. Steering doesn't seem to be effected though. It is directly related to when you unload the front suspesnion. From the drivers side it feels like it is coming from the passenger side, from the passenger side it doesn't feel as bad. Before we get into what I have replaced we need to look at the history of my truck, the PO must have broke the front axle as i have a 1994 d60 under the front rather than the 2000 that I was supposed to have on the truck, Things I have replace that made no diff…

Anyone know the colors of wires I'm looking for? I'm hooking up a backup camera and a backup light on my canopy. What's the wire color going to the trailer plug that's reverse lights? Is there a better place to tap than the wires going to the trailer plug? Tap connector and liquid electrical tape to make the connection?

I replaced my door panels and the window motor on passenger side of my 1999 3500. Now my power locks don't work and I can't figure out why! Any suggestions?

Well the other week while poking the passenger side overhead light it broke and would not click on or off anymore. Beings I had a lot else on my plate it seemed pretty insignificant at the time. So last week I went for the drivers side and bang it came apart. So this weekend I pulled the console and put them back together. All the parts were still in the console and it seems that the switches had just come apart. I glued them back together with RTV since that was all I had and hope they stay together. If not I will super glue them the next time.

Well guys my keeping a eye on the nv5600 didn't work it failed after only 10k, so my question is what are s one of the common mistakes company's make rebuilding these I'm just sorta curious what they could of screwed up

Just finished installing new headlights from SAP. These are the ones from the link you supplied. First picture is before second is after. Headlights were good quality and came with bulbs. Even better my Brother box works with them.

OK guys can some one guide me to a post or give my some help, my wipers will randomly park in different places when turned off or on intermentet what could be causing this.

Ok so I pulled the door panels this morning to replace the door handles as they were old and getting stuck in the up position causing passengers to slam the door without it shutting. As some of you probably could have guessed I broke just about all of the door panel retainers. The stealer ship and most online places want 5-6 bucks apiece...i need 26 so that is not a viable option. Part number is 6505878AA...anyone know of a good replacement, substitution or where I can get them for a better price? I found part number 6503709 that looks like a good replacement and can get 50 each for 6 bucks.

Looking for the name of the dash piece that is in a manual trans truck that where the cup holders are in a auto trans truck. My cup holder broke and I want to replace it with that panel. Can't seem to find the part anywhere but i can find the diagram with the part.