2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

It's a totally different color now, had it wrapped in gloss amber brown, looks really coppery in the sunlight, also had the windows tinted. The first thing I did with my nice clean truck was make a couple dump runs. A truck can look good and still put in the work.

I am real need of new headlights of some sort but am not really which route to go. I saw the thread about the retrofits of the projectors into the stock housing but and running HID with them. I like the throw of light side to side that the hid have by I can really get any info on what kind of distance I will see with them. Is there anyone that has gone the sport light conversion route then switch over to the HID and projectors. Just trying to get best bang for my buck.

A Robin is obsessed with looking at himself in the black shinny paint, mirrors and ss rocker panels on my newer truck. He won't stop poopen on the bed rails when he sees himself in the mirrors. He even attacks the reflection of himself. And since there is another good perch next to my truck on my wifes car door handles, he leaves a good one there almost ea. morning. My CO2 BB gun leaks when I go to put in another Co2 cartridge. Does anyone know how to stop that? Maybe a small 'O'ring or something? Funny, it's only a few years old and won't charge up at all. Thanks in advance I have big guns but don't need a hole that big in truck if a m…

Had the truck since January, been using Valvoline 15w-40 dino since, and the oil pan leaks and leaves a couple drops in the driveway everyday, no big deal. Did an oil change in prep for cold weather last week, used Rotella 5w-40 synthetic, and now she leaves puddles. Once winter sets in I plug the truck in at night anyways, so should I switch back to dino or wait it out till I replace the oil pan gasket (unkown date)...I'm dreading pulling the motor mounts and what not.

Well I have my dashboard patched. I use the Goop again. I worked it in the crack with a razor blade.Let it set up overnight. Then I used my dremel with a soft nylon brush to remove the excess goop off the dash.I drilled through the end of the crack on the front side of the dash to stop it from cracking any farther.I then used a dental burr ( same one I used on my fender ) to open the crack up some but not go all the way through.I used my finger to fill the crack up, and a little above. Then used my razor blade to level it off, and the dremel to smooth and remove the excess on the last part of the crack - well its a break actually.Smoothed it off and then I put a coating…

I wrote earlier this week about my oscillation/uneven braking. The manual states the following concerning turning the rotors on a lathe. Can someone please tell me what this means? Is it something a machine shop will know when I go in there and tell them what I need, and, does this imply that the hub needs to with the rotor for turning? Thanks. The lathe must machine both sides of the rotor simultaneously with dual cutter heads. Equipment capable of machining only one side at a time may produce a tapered rotor. A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is recommended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.

Hey guys, new to the site.I am having some issues with my electrical system and and getting really frustrated. Problem: After sitting for more than a few days battery is pretty much dead and truck wont start.After I bought it, I let it sit for like a month and then bam---nothing. So I figured bad batteries, I'd try to drive it more often. Its our 3 vehicle so I just was using it to head to the mtns to go snowboarding and to the beach (throw the surfboard in the back) and for camping --we have a cab-over shell on it. Anyways, I have the batteries checked---Autozone says one battery bad, Alt OK. I replace both batteries and cross my fingers. Starts great for about a week…

I'm selling my 1998 12v Extended Cab Automatic. Mechanically it runs just like a stock 12v should. The first time I washed it I ended up with a different color coming through, it's called primer. Then I powered washed it and of course it made more of the primer color shine through. When I first got it the AFC box came out from Power Driven Diesel. I bought one with the gauge on it along with injectors and CVs. Still in the box in the closet. Is there any point putting them on to try and get a better price or just sell these parts separate? I can put a paint job on it for about $350 but it's not going to cover any or much body work (small places). Maybe just cleaned up rea…

Hey was wondering if someone knew which pin was the hot for the dash lights?I'm tearing my dash out tomorrow and want to finally get this issue fixed. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Ok here is the problem i have. The last owner of my truck installed or built, which i am not sure, a gooseneck hitch. IMO this thing is somewhat overbuilt but hey it works. When doing so he welded it to the frame, and to the bed sheet metal. So in other words the bed is not removable. I have flirted with the idea of removing the hitch all together but that is somewhat difficult at the moment with no access to air tools. Besides the hitch seems to have been used a lot and doesn't look like it ready to quit so why replace it with a something else that would require repairing or replacing the bed. Any way as i said earlier i have no access to air tools. I do have a f…

I think I screwed up. I was replacing brake pads/rotors and thought the brake fluid could use refreshing (old & dark). I sucked out all the old fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster & refilled it with new fluid. I was alone & don't have a bleeder bomb so this is the process I used. I attached a clear vinyl hose to the rt/front bleeder, ran it uphill about 18" then down into a container with the end submerged in fluid. I opened the bleeder & pumped the brake pedal (engine off) to the floor about 10 times, not closing off the bleeder in between pumps, occasionally checking & replenishing the reservoir. Slow, deliberate strokes to the floor, remov…

I was at a junkyard today looking for a grill for my truck and i spotted a 1997-1998 (guessing) Ram 2500 that had an overhead console with temp readout. I started tearing it apart and got the hole wiring harness and console. Anyone know if this will work in my 2002 ? I am hoping they used the same harness for things like this in all those trucks, my trucks in the bodyshop so i can't look at the plug connections. One thing it was missing or at least I couldn't find it..was the temp sensor , and I haevn't got a clue where it was or where it would even hook in to it, anyone help me with some info , and if I wasted my time tearing this out

Traack bar is destroyed again, 3rd one in 8 months. Anyone know of a 3rd gen track bar kit that will work with a 5 inch lift? All I can find are for "up to a 3 inch lift"

I mean, they're everywhere (ebay, amazon, etc.) but 99.999% of the ones out there, like Recon, are for 03-08 body style.Is the roofline/curvature that different between the two body styles?And anyone know of a template out there for 2gen trucks? Anyone here installed their own cab lights on a non-oem cab light truck?

Hopefully this is in the right section? Move if need be... Was looking for anyone in my area that would be willing to help me activate my high idle and change the tire size thing as well.Would be willing to pay for the trouble. Or if anyone trusts me enough, borrow theirs to do it?...I know, probably a long shot...

OK. Just went to one of our venders...Rock Auto. They sell the Moog Problem solver Track Bar for $81.79. Cant even do the rebuild kits for that. "Moog track bars are forged from premium materials for strength. They are equipped with powdered-metal gusher bearings that provide a smooth, durable wear surface that extends service life. Moog gusher bearings have grease grooves that allow grease to flow through the bearing to the stud. They also are equipped with Moog's patented pressed-in cover plate, which eliminates excessive play and allows for tighter tolerances". Seems like for this price you could replace it every year or two and be money ahead. am I missin…

Hi, I'm looking for a single 1/2 Bulkhead fitting and some 1/2" corrugated fuel line. (ALL items above bracket in pic, less, washers, male QC, clamp and ties. ) Any one know of a source for fittings besides Vulcan? [Note: Nothing against Vulcan, they are great to deal with, extremely helpful, I can't say enough good about them. I'm just looking for source closer to me given Christmas mail delays etc..] Thanks. Leaky

Was checking front end before making an appointment for alignment and noticed LF wheel has play with hands at 12 and 6 O’clock but NOT at 3 and 9 O’clock. I really have to put some effort into it to feel it, but it’s there. Wheel spins both direction with no noise/grinding (All the bad stuff.) nor do I hear anything at Highway Speeds (If that is possible with a Diesel.) I was hoping it was a Ball Joint, but I see no issues. Any advice? Thanks Leaky.

I noticed a little growl out of my power steering pump today. Checked the fluid and it was low and added some to it quit the little growl I was hearing. I have also noticed it growl a little on start up in the cold part of the winter. It always went away after warm up. How do you check the pump to see if it is going bad? I have also noticed some oil driping from that area and was thinking the seals are going bad. When I get home I am replacing the tappet cover gasket and will have that side of the engine pretty clear. Since I am going to be in there that deep I would not mind doing what ever I need to wile I have it apart.I have seen mentioned here before about a rebuild …

This question is not for me but I am not far from having my pads changed. Someone I know is thinking of putting Ceramic pads on his truck. I used to think a middle of the road set of disc pads always worked great, not the cheapest or the most expensive, At times when things were tight the cheapest. Do ceramic work better or last longer?