2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hi, I have a 2001 dodge 3500 Cummins diesel.I have a dead fuel gauge issue that doesn't seem quite like the others that I have researched,so I could use some help. It reads empty at all times, UNLESS I unplug the batteries for 15-20 minutes and let the truck reset. At this time the fuel gauge will read full for about 15 mins, before it slowly drops to empty again and stays there permenantly. Here is what I have done. I have dropped the tank and I have replaced the entire canister/float/fuel level sending unit. I used an volt meter on the new sending unit and as I moved the float up and down I watched the resistance change. I have done the gauge test and watched the g…

Hi guys, what I got is a 99 Cummins I recently blew the driver side headlight. I have a harness that goes from my passenger side headlight plug over to my driver side but doesn't plug in. I have a hid kit installed with ballasts. My problem is I don't have high beams I only have lows. So I checked the pins, fueses on and on. Then i unplugged the aftermarket harness and put in oem 9007 cheapie bulbs and what I found out is driver side works fine high and low my passenger side though only works on low. and I keep blowing the fuse 15 amp rt headlamp under the hood. I don't know if I have a short or a fuse I'm not seeing or that harness is shot and someone knows where I can g…

Hey all, I got my truck inspected this past Friday and they told me that my hard brake line that runs behind the fuel tank isn't gona last much longer. My dad recommended just leaving the old piece in and fishing a new one through, and I read it quite a few guys doing that on CF. Does that sound like a decent idea? Anyone have any ideas they think are better? Also, I read a lot about this new copper/nickel alloy brake line and guys are saying it's great to work with and doesn't rust. Any opinions on that stuff? And what size are the fittings on that line? I believe the line is 3/16 but I don't know the fitting/thread size.... thanks!

I was just about to replace my sway bar bushings and read on another forum some guys removed the sway bar all together. The front bar that is... Anyone here try it?? I know it's better for off roading etc and i'm certainly no stranger to using swaybar disconnects, but just wondering if people leave them off even for the highway. maybe the Suspension is stiff enough that it will not make too much of a difference?? anyway for the amount of time it takes I'm going to remove it and take it for a little spin and see what I find...stay tuned. P.S- I did have the rear sway bar disconnected, actually I bought the truck with the links bro…

Well half way through my trip up north I have found that my Balls joints are loose again. The moogs lasted 20K The Danas lasted about 15k Not really sure what to do. I would love to just get something that lasted from the factory, but I dunno. Thoughts on what to try? Should I do the dana ones again?

How can I get the quietest exhaust I can?

Beginning yesterday my abs and brake light in inst cluster are stuck on. Fuses are good. Is the problem still more than likely the speed sensor on rear axle, even if speedometer was working most of the time until late today when it seems to have quit completely. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Will I do any damage to my truck if I take out the front driveshaft and drive, obviously no 4x4? I have to check it this weekend for play, but I can afford to have the shaft rebuilt/yoke replaced right now. Reasoning behind this is a front end vibration at speeds. I'm having some new u joints pressed in today for both axle shafts but both u joints seem tight. Front end is new, new wheel bearings last year, ball joints are tight. Guy at the drivetrain shop said the yoke is probably shot...

Well... after finally getting the rear brake problems under control about a month ago.. my front started acting up (noticeably) as of yesterday. When I bought this truck back in September... the previous owner was replacing the front passenger caliper the day I was picking it up. Said it was sticking. When I had the front hard lines replaced back in.. I think.. November... I had the front pads replaced (both sides - with Adaptive) because they were considerably more wore down than the driver's side as the previous owner didn't replace when he did caliper. Fast forward to yesterday and today as I started to hear scraping/grinding and …

Ah, Dodge Cupholders. There are so many classic designs. Remember the old 1994-7 dual action one designed to either flip a mountain dew onto your right inner thigh and knee or bounce it vertically so it spills all down your radio and fills the CD slot with goo? How about the 98-02 model that looks super cool, fits up into the dash, but squeaks... creaks... and you only put one drink into because it is made of paper mache? I decided that I had enough. I went to Genos and ordered the center console cupholder I've always wanted. Let me break it down for you. This cupholder CHANGED MY LIFE! I am not sure what this says about me, my personal standards, or qu…

In this month's TDR magazine...Geno's Garage

I looked at the A/C relay under the hood and pulled the fuse. Engine running max a/c on i have voltage at one wire and with just normal a/c i have power at two wires. I need a diagram to show what wire goes were. I did some googling but i can't find what i need. There's a two wire plug down by the compressor that is broken. The fuse box side of the wireing is intact so i checked for power at both wires and nothing. I swaped relays around but still no power. So if anyone can post the diagram i need i would be a happy camper.

'02 RC 5sp. ....2500 4x4 The transfer case will shift from 2HI to 4HI easily when stopped. Moving, it's difficult. Grinds. Shifting out of 4HI to 2HI on the move is very easy. Any ideas ? Also, could not find out what 'CAD' means in the acronym list. Does this term apply to my situation. Thank you, MM

I did a search but nothing came up. Anyway both my latches are siezed solid and the rear doors won't open on my 2002 2500. I have brand new mopar latches both left and right. Any tips on how to get at the old bolts with out wrecking my rear inside door panels? I am going to tear into it soon just looking for advice.

Finally after all these years I wore out the parking brake shoes and the rear cables are hanging up which doesn't help either. So I pull the driver side apart to look things over and see if I could free the cable up. That was fairly easy just tape a funnel to the cable end and pour a bit of diesel fuel in the funnel and push and pull the cable. This freed the cable up again for now. Closer inspection I wore on shoe down to the steel and just about to make steel to steel contact with the drum. So for about $90 buck I'm getting two new rear cables and set of parking brake shoes for the truck. Explains why the truck would creep off on me. I should have parts by tomorrow...

My brakes just started acting up, the pedal gets hard and can barely stop. I have vacuum brakes and not hydroboost. I pulled the large vacuum line out of the booster to inspect it and when I did you could hear it suck air. This was after the truck had been sitting for 15 minutes or so which means I don't have a vacuum leak. I have no fluid leaks anywhere and the master cylinder is still full. Only thing I can think of is the booster just took a dump.

Yesterday I wanted to clean up my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 after hauling a Common Rail engine to Boise, ID to be rebuild. I looked under the bed liner and it was dusty, dirty, etc. So quickly jerk up in the center and released the bead liner and flip it out of the truck and fired up the pressure washer. There was packed sand in the corners, a few good sized rocked in there, leaves, oil and grease, you name it was in there. After a quick rinsing out here is what a 20 year old truck with a bed liner should look like if taken care of. Fender wells have a few dents after a few years of wood hauling in the bed. No rust, and barely even wore through the paint…

Today I replaced both front rotors,pads,and calipers. I also replaced my passenger side flex break line. Me and a buddy bled the breaks and I still do not have a break pedal. Break light and ABS lights have came on as a result of this. Pedal will get semi hard with the truck off but with the truck in the pedal will go to the floor.

I am interested in a leveling kit to help my 2500 to clear larger tires and look level. I have a couple questions. I have found 2" steel leveling kits and nylon kits. Is steel the better option? The nylon claims it is better because it doesn't rust. Any long term effects from putting a leveling kit on? Any brands or specific products you would steer me towards or away from? Thanks!

After seeing how thin my front pads were the other day I figured I would redo my front brakes. Got new rotors and pads even figured i would replace the soft lines. Get in there and cant ca-lapse the pistons on the first caliper. Got around that and figure I need to just do a rebuild on them. I am ok with that but while spinning the hub on the right front I hear a clicking noise and start looking closer and see the u joint moving. It appears that at least one of the cups has no bearings left in it. Figuring the left probably is no better or close to being gone I get to do both sides now. The thing that kills me the most is that while I am in that deep you might as well do …