2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

flatbed progress pics: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9117-flatbed-is-bolted-down-getting-close/ And of course, when I took off the old box, I just cut the whole harness... figured I'd sort out the wires later! uggg. Anyone have the schematic of rear body wiring?

Installed the Raptor yesterday and it was running fine at 18 psi until this evening when I took the truck to the car wash.. after pulling out I noticed the fuel pressure gauge was reading 16 psi.. 5 minutes later.. 15psi.. by the time I got home it was down to 8psi. Got underneath the hood and noticed one of the fittings was leaking a bit.. figured that's where the pressure loss was coming from, but I took it all apart and re-did the teflon tape.. put it all back together again.. dry as a bone now, but only reading 7psi. Turned the screw on the pump up.. but no change in pressure. Any ideas? I can't imagine a pump that sits on the frame of the truck wouldn't be able to …

I built a mpg/high idle for my truck a month or so back and I am having a problem and hope that I can get some insight. When I turn on the high idle I get a temp reading on my Scangage 2 of 137 water temp and 31 iat temp. If and when it starts the high idle as soon as it hits 1200RPM it goes to 3 cylinder. I have a 3 cylinder switch that will make the iat read 13 degrees but it makes no difference. This has worked this way except once when the outside temp was below 32 degrees. I tried to have a dodge dealer check this and they said that I have a 12v ( manufacture date is Feb 1998 ). I know that it has been flashed for the high idle buy the PO but he didn't know that it h…

I'm give a bit of a spoiler to the members here. I just called Eric over at Vulcan Performance and talked to him. First off I told him Thank You for creating the bracket for me and it worked out awesome. Then I told him some of selling angles like remote mounting of the senders gives easy access for testing and sensor replacement. The Eric told me about how they are getting the design cleaned up a bit more for production. I told him what I use for materials and fittings as well as lengths of tubing. He added there might be a test schrader valve added as well. He also told me that he really hates to have anything more mounted on the engine and rather have everything r…

Geez... When it rains it pours. I just lost my pyrometer this morning it quit working. So I did my phone shopping at work today since it was slow. Called around and once again my buddy Eric at Vulcan Performance did the best price. I'm just beside myself of taking either ISSPro EV's or ISSPro EV2's. The EV's are all mechanical gauges. Now Eric tells me the EV2's are electronic and using now solid state pressure sensors that are rare to fail. I'm considering on jumping out on a limb and trying the EV2's. What do you all think? http://www.isspro.com/page.php?page=Performance_Diesel_By_Product_Series#tabs-1 Once again thanks to http://www.vulcanperformance.com

I installed my heated leather seats but still haven't wired the heating part of them. The seat is out of a 2001 gas truck and mines a 2002 diesel so the harnesses are different. I'm just wondering how aftermarket heated seats work in relation to I believe you just wire a power source to them, but what tells them to shut down after reaching a certain temperature? I'm wondering if I can in fact just power the heating element and not worry about it burning up if it's not wired to the computer of my truck? Would make it a heck of alot easier if I could just do that

So I just moved to a new place that's located exactly 1.7 miles from my parking spot at work. (Good and bad I guess) I am thinking of buying a new vehicle, but that's not really what id like to do.. With winter coming around, is this short drive there and short drive back going to hurt my truck? I've always got my truck up to operating temperature before shutting off, but now I have no choice really. Should I buy another vehicle to drive on those short trips? My last question is this: how often should I drive the dodge if I do buy a new vehicle, the dodge will be the 2nd driver. I'd like to keep miles off of it, but a car payment is just not what I need right …

Anyone know of a fix for broken glove box hinges or where I could find a used one for less than 75.00. That seems to be the going rate on Ebay. Tried the junk yards around my area but no luck so far.

Hi everybody, it has been a while since my lasts post. i am looking at getting new shocks for my truck but i am having a hard time determining what equipment will fit my truck. i believe from what i have found is that i have a leveling kit in the front and stock supsension in the back. My question is to any of you that also have a leveling kit in the front. what shocks do you run? any info would be greatly appreciated.

So to make a long story short.....a long time ago I wrecked my truck and had the frame repaired. For whatever reason I still feel weary about the frame situation because of who did the work. I recently found a guy who has a 2001 dodge dually frame and front axle. I have pictures of it but his front end setup is more or less a solid front axle with no differential and it has coil spring towers on the frame My current pickup a 1997 dodge 2500 single wheel 2wd has the old control arm coil spring setup. My question is is one or the other a better front end ? And if I could score this frame and stuff would all my 97 stuff be able to be swapped to that frame?

Once again its time for new seat covers. While I was last down in Emmett, ID I stop in Autozone and pickup a new set of seat covers. So far my factory seats are doing fair to OK. The driver seat is finally getting a tear on the outer edge from hauling my tail across it. The lower back of the seat is getting a bit thread bare. Passenger side is still good. But after getting the seat covers on and trimmed in looks good. Kind reminds me of a Ford design.

Hey guys, Long story short.. bought a Raptor 100 last year.. mounted it to the frame, but then never finished the install. Stock lift pump died recently, so I need to finish the install. Went to connect the fuel lines today and realized I need to mount the pump in a different location.. unbolted the brackets fine, but I also need to reposition the pump on the backplate (put the spacer in). When I attempted to unbolt the pump from the backplate, I realized the bolts are seized. Instead of being patient and giving it a good soaking of PB Blaster, I tried to force the issue and stripped the bolts. I have a feeling I'm SOL at this point.. I've tried mounting the…

Ok, So I'm almost done setting up my truck, getting ready to fabricate a tow hitch setup & I realize I don't know the towing capacity for this truck! it's a 2002 2wd 3500 quad cab dually 6 speed & HO. Dana 80 axle has 3.55 gears It has factory helper leaf springs, and firestone "ride rite" air bags So does anyone know the towing capacity for this truck? I'm wondering which class hitch to setup. I will always use 5th gear when towing as it's 1.00 ratio straight through. Also, I've installed a service body on this truck so that rules out gooseneck/5th wheel style towing. Thanks!

Warning Rant ahead lol So am i the only one who feel's the price of used diesel trucks has hit epic stupidity level's??? I know they last longer and seem to be better equiped to certain job's but, I'm seeing stuff that looks like it's one day away from the scrap yard selling for $5000....when it's really only worth $500...The older they are the higher the price i mean i seen today a 91' model dodge 3500 single rear wheel truck 4x4 reg cab with dents, ding's, hole's, and rust EVERYWHERE... 500,000 mile's leaking fluid's from every orfice possible while the only good piece on it is the $800 set of Stacks and there asking $7500 with a rebuilt title....wth??? why is this …

My driver's side ABS sensor is bad and I'm going to replace it next week but, I seem to remember Michael saying you need to replace both front sensors at the same time or the ECM won't recognize it. Replace just the broken one or both?...they're $50 a piece.

My stepson in Chicago tells me this foum has the smartest people on earth for trouble shooting. This is the 3rd forum I 've asked on so it must be the charm. No shift, trans torn down 3 times, electrics replaced 3 times. this is long details This is the ongoing No shift issue of 3 months continuing teardowns and parts replacements today's TPS wires show wrong voltage unplugged. results next paragraph. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ight-help.html which is also copied below. This morning I decided to follow JL12valves advice and check the TPS again. Put i pin in the middle wire ( orange) and got 5 volts at idle and 5 at WOT. I think is should have…

I replaced my heater core I had to unplug PCM and now my key dinger is ringing. It must have restored all the old settings. How do I go about turning it off again.

It started out with a leaking water pump then a belt then a alt. then a heater core then and fan motor. Take it from me, when you buy a water pump get it from Cummins. The parts store suc. When they sell you one for 59.00 at Oreillys and cummins is 153.00 there is a reason for that.

Anyone have the part number for the rear axle nut and wedge on a Dana 70. Or better yet a part number for the old style double nut system?

Had my 02 now for 7,8 years and never been able to stop the rough road squeak coming from the steering column. I think that's the source, but, difficult to pinpoint except that the squeak slows down/ almost goes away when I push forward on the auto trans shift lever. I think this is why this truck was available/ very low miles at the time of purchase. Squeek did not bother me then but now seems like my ears are on auto focus.