2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

Hey all, Well after reading and contributing to this thread, http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/256272-Air-Filter-one-dirt-road-and-the-minder-says-Now!/page2 I am curious if anyone has a collection of data on various filters that conclusively shows which is best? Does anyone have oil analysis while using a BHAF? Anyone have a comparison between Donaldson BHAF and OEM filter? I know some of you must....I know I chose the Donaldson BHAF for a reason but I don't remember actual ratings anymore..... Thanks!

Hi all, So I want to replace my trailer connector plug and clean up this wiring. Now just throwing on a new plug would be no big deal, but I want to figure all this out and clean it up. I know that whole bunch of wires thats hanging on the right was installed to run up to the bed for a gooseneck connector. Im planning to leave that as is because I may pull a gooseneck in the future, unless someone can suggest a better way of wiring that? What I don't know is, what is that short white wire up at the top thats capped off, and what should I do with it? What is the long black wire thats capped off? What is the lighter gauge wire with the red one …

Hi all, Just wanted to share my first experience towing with my cummins Being in the military, and not owning a travel trailer or anything, I don't get the chance to work my truck very often. I don't know exactly how much weight it was, and there was no scale nearby, but I know the tractor is between 3500-4000 lbs, not sure on the trailer. You more experienced guys would probably know better based on the pic. Anyway the tractor is a 47hp, 3 cyl, gas, Ford 3400 from the 60's i think? My Dad is gradually working his way into a small scale farming operation and was able to borrow the tractor from a friend to see how it worked to run his 6' brush hog. Our who…

So I am ready to upgrade my lift pump but I am torn between electric and mechanical.... Electric pros are slightly lower cost and I can run pre and post filters on the pump The mechanical pump I like more but it seams you can only run the stock filter housing and I'm not to comfortable with that idea.... What are your thoughts are there different filter options out there that I am not seeing for the mechanical? I'm looking at the gdp fuel boss if that changes anything

Alright guys, I need some opinions on two mirror options. I'll start by saying I'd really to get the 4th gen mirrors from 1aauto but as of now, i can't convince the wife to let me spend that much on mirrors! I'm going to start towing more often as crab and salmon season just opened up, I usually volunteer to tow my friends boats so I don't have to own the money pit! lol but I'd prefer to tow safely aka be able to see my trailer and other cars and things around me! Are there any cheaper alternatives? Or should I just start pulling in the early Christmas present excuses and get the mirrors?!

I currently am working with a manufacturer to have an additional BHAF filter option. This filter uses Donaldson's Powercore technology and has a capable flow rate of 1300 CFM while filtering the air down to a micron rating substantially better than stock. I am currently in process doing heat soak and IAT temp checks and EGT checks at WOT runs, cruising, part throttle acceleration and transient boost speed from cruising to passing acceleration. Next tank of diesel will be a fuel economy test to see if any improvement exists. I will do my best to keep everyone up to speed.

Ok guys could use some input. My truck is y2k 24v auto with a fass 95 lift pump and an reman vp44. If I parked it up hill it has to be reprimed in the morning . (Starter bump type) I put in a check valve on the discharge side of the lift pump by the tank which solved the priming/drain back issue, but I don't know why the fuel was draining back. I have no leaks and no smell and run 14-16 psi on the fp gauge. When the truck is at lower rpms under load light or heavy I can feel a little bit of surging like a miss. All of the return lines seals have been replaced already . If there's is a leak how can I find it and could it be in the injector pump check valve. Thanks for t…

so after having surging for a month or two after startup, I finally found my air leak. problem is, its on the top where the two wires come into. how do i fix that? can i pull the rubber boot off of it and replace it? then re solder the wire on the inside? is there a special type of solder to use? i dont want to solder it and the stuff comes off and goes into the IP, ( not good at soldering) or am I screwed and im buying a new one, is there anyway that i could block it off> what does the wires do exactly on this.... i grabbed a pic offline to show where its at.

I blew my head gasket on my 12V'er over a month ago, and have been shaving away at the head since. I'm not going to pretend like I know what I'm doing, I just want to document what I've done. Some of these pictures arn't up to date, I'll update them as I get new ones. Taking pictures of this stuff have proved to be challenging. First things first. Now, here's a look at the factories handy work. Notice the difference between these two cylinders. I can't do any worse than that! Also note the horrendous lip around the inside of the valve seat blocking much needed air flow. Plus there is an excess of material around the valve guide. …

Hi all, I was wondering if we could start a good fuel additive thread, something that covers 2 stroke in depth as well as other conventional, off the shelf stuff. Also, what adding cetane does, and how sulfur factors in and parts per million and emulsifiers an all. I bring this up because I was part of a recent thread on another forum where a guy was asking for opinions on Howe's Diesel Treat. I commented that I would just stick with 2 stroke unless you are somewhere really cold, then I would add PS white bottle too, in the appropriate amount of course. Anyway someone chimed in claiming that 2 stroke is mostly just kerosene, and that he had the MSDS to prove it. Same…

I ended up trading my edge comp for a smarty. I received a boost fooler with the trade but haven't installed it. Not sure if I really need it. I don't seem to have an issue. I have only pushed it a couple of times to see where it would go... and it seems to be around 30-32. I do throw a fueling code tho. Should I install it just to avoid the code? Will it void it? Will it do anything else for me?

So not sure exactly what's going on right now, but I don't think it's a bad thing. I filled up my last tank and up until yesterday I thought my fuel gauge was stuck! It FINALLY dropped off the full peg and is starting to get under the first tic mark. I'm currently sitting at over 100 miles on my trip counter. The only thing that's changed from this fill up from previous is I set the smarty to fuel mode. Does it really cause this big of a jump in MPGs?

I am working on a timing for my 00 24v cummins. The goal is to be able to achieve increased- or retarded timing by varying the temps read by the ecm. I spoke with Mike the otherday, and was just wondering if I am the only guy that has taken this approach?

So I got 4 inch dp to back of cab then up to a stack I want to put an exaust on it with a muffler the drone is crazy so opinions on 4 or 5 and diamand eye mbrp farm boy diesel what one I'm up in the air I take the truck on every long trip so it has to be able to sneak under the radar so to speak all abiding laws aside

This past weekend was the first camping trip of the season... and first hauling since a lot work was done over the winter. First thing.. With new track bar and Redhead.. It was such a pleasure to not have 2 inches of play in the steering wheel while pulling the camper! Secondly, the deep trans pan and gauge is a nice addition. Although I have no idea what the temp was before.. the temp never rose above 135 towing and it's nice to be able to monitor it. Third.. I am finding this Smarty to be an improvement for my application over the Edge Comp Drag. Where I could easily/quickly see high boost and EGT temps with the Edge last year... not…

My DPP died and they no longer service the Power Puck that I have. So, I am in the market for a programmer/ Tuner. I am looking hard at the Quadzilla Xzt or adrenaline. I would like any suggestions or feedback on those products or something else.

Anyone else experience boost fluctuation with a smarty catcher level software tune while using cruise control? Saturday I was cruisin at 72mph and the boost gauge would bounce between 2 and 10psi. It was more gradual, like it would catch a gust of wind every 5 or 10 seconds. Made driving with the cruise annoying.

As you may or may not know.. I traded my comp box for a smarty. I am happy with how the smarty works for daily driving but miss the get up and go of the comp. So.. I'm thinking about picking up another comp box and trying a stack. What do I need to know? I know about running the smarty on even numbers. What would be decent settings to run both together? Is it hard on things?

I'm moving to Eastern Idaho in the very near future and was wanting to upgrade my stock injectors for a little more "I think I can" power, for the Teton mountain range. I talked to a fellow at DAP about some 7x0.0085VCO injectors and he said I would be fine with stock HX35. But if I wanted to upgrade the turbo he suggested a Screaming Eagle 62/68/12 turbo. I've done a few web searches and all hands back his statement that I'd be fine, even running my smarty. For those of you who live in the mountains what are your opinions? I'm open to suggestions, as long as its not BD parts. I don't anticipate towing much over 8000 pounds.

Is there a way to make the stock oil pressure gauge show the actual oil pressure instead of being a dummy gauge? Truck in question is a 96'.