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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

1st Generation Dodge

This is a discussion forum of the 1988 to 1993 1st Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins Turbo Diesel power train and driveline system. 

  1. Started by Me78569,

    Hey guys, I just wanted to give you a heads up that we have created a parts lookup tool using the new articles section! This will take a few minutes to load for the first time, but once it does you should be happy with how it works. You can use the drop down menu's to browse through the sections. You can also use the bookmarks function in the main window to jump around in the document. Let us know how you like it!

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  2. CHECK ENGINE Light Diagnostic Mode 1. Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever through all gear positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on, then off (if equipped). 2. Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn ignition on, off, on, off, and on. Record 2-digit fault codes as displayed by the flashing CHECK ENGINE light. 3. For example, Code 23 is displayed as flash, flash, 4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause, other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. 4. Once CHECK ENGINE light begins to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. If you lose count, it will be necessary to start ove…

  3. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    1. Ensure battery connections are tight and not corroded. Ensure 60-pin connector on Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) is fully engaged and retaining screw is tight. Check for pushed-out connectors and bent terminals. SBEC is located in left front corner of engine compartment, near horns on left fender. 2. Ensure electrical connections on intake manifold heater relays are tight and not corroded. Intake manifold heater relays are mounted on inner wheelwell. 3. Check for loose or defective electrical connections on starter motor. Ensure electrical connections are installed on charge air temperature sensor and air temperature switch and wiring is okay. Charge air temper…

  4. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    Here you go gang... The engine layout of the 12V VE Pumped Cummins engine... I know the image is a bit poor but its better than nothing... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71&stc=1&d=1260577188

  5. Started by SV13,

    All. Need some advice. I just put a 93 engine into my 90 truck. Engine sat for 4 years. I’ve got a steady drip from the top of the pump where the throttle shaft goes vertically into to the pump. There is a bit of play back and forth. What can I do to fix that ? Is there just an O ring on there? I believe it’s also sucking air as when I start my engine it wants to race. photo attached

  6. Started by SV13,

    Where is the oil pressure sensor located? I think it’s infront of the fuel filter in the block on an angle , but not sure if that’s if. I put a 93 into my 90 truck and I’m not getting pressure while cranking. would like to know if the sensors are the same for 90 and 93

  7. Started by SV13,

    I’m putting in a 93 engine in my 90 2wd auto pickup. I accidentally removed the torque Converter from the trany. I for the life of me can’t get it back on. I’m pretty sure I’ve moved the splines on the input shaft. Do I need to get an alignment tool. I’ve been at it for three hours now. 🥵

  8. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    I've got a local gent that wants to sell his truck and asked me to give a shot at finding an owner for him... 1991 Dodge 250 5.9L Cummins 1st Gen 5 Speed GetRag transmission 4WD Approximately 300k miles.

  9. Yeah, I know this is the same vehicle as the clutch switch but I wanted to split these two topics up for explanation reasons. Now I will tell you that if you have a problem keeping the voltage regulator and they just don't last very long like in the case of this truck the first regulator failed just about instantly. The second voltage regulator failed after about 5 minutes and fail with overcharging. Now my client admits he bought an Amazon Alternator. I was smart and had the alternator test before installing the regulators in the first place. I ohm test all the electrical with a DVM. All good. The problem is that even though the alternator passed the test the only thing …

  10. Just aheads up if you are looking for a clutch switch, these switches are ranging from 150 to 180 dollars. Very spendy. In my case the switch was still good but who ever installed the clutch master cylinder forgot the backing washer for the switch. The clutch switch was sliding into the head of the master cylinder which prevented the starter from cranking. Mark, he found out a Poweraid cap would fit perfectly and now the switch has a backing washer. Correcting the start up issue.

  11. Started by Mr1970fj40,

    Hey all, so I just recently purchased a 1991 W250 12v (non inter-cooled). It has the worse electrical gremlins a guy could ask for. My issue with the truck is there is constant power to the dash and to the ve pump, even with the key off and also with the entire ignition switch taken out. The truck will start with the key but won’t turn off with the key since there is constant power to the pump, the plunger stays open so I have to use the kill lever. My old man and I have tried looking for a short and don’t have any luck. Replaced the voltage regulator and alternator thinking that was the issue but still constant power to dash and pump. Anyone else encounter these problem…

  12. Vehicle Nickname: Ram D350 Club Cab Dually Date Added To The Garage: 2022-01-11 Garage Link: Ram D350 Club Cab Dually

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  13. Started by CumminsRunner67,

    Hey guys, looking to purchase my first 1st Gen and would like to get an idea of the do's and dont's that I should keep an eye out for. Thanks.

  14. Yes the problems of the rear ABS system. The ABS unit tends to dump too much brake fluid pressure into the accumulator. When backing the vehicle and applying the brakes the pressure is dumped into the accumulator. This happens at such a low pressure in the accumulator phase that the rear adjusters will not function. So you basically end up with rear brakes that are so far out of adjustment that your brake pedal goes to the floor boards. And you're breaking ability at all speeds from the rear axle is decreased. And when attempting to come to a stop at low speeds on icy roads. The engine is allowed to produce power through the rear wheels and p…

  15. Started by NIsaacs,

    Looking to replace my 20 year old 50hp Bully Dogs. Getting the blue/rich idle haze, plus they have always been smoky. I understand I need the 145* spray pattern for my '91.5 intercooled truck. Looking at these with new Bosch bodies: https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-brand-new-performance-injector-5x0-012-vco-145-up-to-50hp-15293 https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-brand-new-performance-injector-5x0-012-sac-145-up-to-50hp-15297 I would like to stay in the 50 hp range, it seems to do really well at this level. I have no EGT's or coolant issues at all, just too much smoke. I have a rebuild kit on order for my '01 HX35W, it is…

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    • 7 replies
    • 3.4k views
  16. OK, I bought what I believe to be 2014 or newer leather Laramie PR seats with memory at the NATS last year. (This is based on the name "Laramie" is tooled into the back.) I had no problems with the passenger side but I can't quit get the drivers side to work. Every once in a hile it will twitch, then nothing. PR lumbar works. I've read that the memory control module needs to be powered up for it to work. If so which wires power it up? Has anybody tried this or know a trick? Thanks

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  17. Started by Butterbean150,

    Hi guys, I have a 93 Cummins with an auto tranny. Evrything is stock. Expressed as a percentage, how much torq converter slippage is common for these trucks? 8% 10% 15%??

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  18. Started by Relentless70,

    I am in the process of making my own intake horn. I'm too cheap to buy one, and I have the materials, the time, and the equipment to do it. I will also temporarily eliminate the grid heater until September or October. The intake tube will be 3" OD, made from driveshaft tubing from a 1985 Dodge 3/4 ton truck. The first pic is the flange that bolts directly to the intake manifold. The center hole in the flange is to make it easier for me to torch out the 3" circle......it gives me an easy starting point.

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  19. Started by capj,

    I finally broke the 23 mpg mark with 23.2. Not bad at all in my book ............. :thumbsup

  20. Started by Tymatthew,

    Alternator checked out good...by a couple young kids at oriellys so maybe I need to go somewhere else but anyway it checked out good and the battery I’d brand new....so my volts go from 14.5 to 11.7 while I’m driving on the highway for a minute or two at least 3 to 4 time on my way to work which is 70miles one way...anyo e got any ideas? I disconnected my grid heater and it seems like it does it less but it still does it...

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