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2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1994 to 1998 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
514 topics in this forum
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https://trackeasy.fun/usps/ https://showbox.tools/
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Replaced 5YO Isspro Gauge due to it reading 3.5 PSI higher - when compared to VPMAX liquid filled gauge from Vulcan. Both readings were taken at top of OEM Fuel Filter housing. I have a direct custom made 1000# tested line with JIC fittings between Cab Gauge and OEM Fuel Filter housing via a New Isspro R7798 Snubber connected to Needle Valve, going into Fuel Filter housing. No Isolator. Only thing different in new arrangement is the new Isspro R7798 Snubber - with pistons. (Correct Diesel Piston is installed) Previous Set up had the simple brass small hole Snubber and Needle valve, needle valve set so gauge responded exactly like Moparmans video. …
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Friend just bought a 97 2wd and I've been helping him get it in order. Just completely rebuild the front end, found a boost leak, got dash straightened out... ect. The previous owner claims to have partially installed a leveling kit. said he installed it on the rear, but not the front. Friend wants to get rid of the leveling kit all together. I always thought a leveling kit only went on the front of a 2wd? Moral of the story, I just looked under the truck. I do not see any non factory parts, other than some worn out rancho shocks. Do you guys see anything non stock?
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Pulling a trailer through the pasture the other day and hit a muddy spot. started slipping so I put it in 4Hi, 4x4 light came on after a foot or two. Rocked tried for a minute or 2, both directions and no luck. Moved back and forth about 10 feet, spinning. Put it in 4Lo and the truck pulled right through with no issue. Coming back around a bit later with the same trailer I experimented a bit. In 4Hi, the front wheels were not getting power. Played around a bit, nothing. Truck would come to a stop if I turned the wheel, rears spinning away, fronts doing nothing. 4Lo, same as before, pulled right out no issue. Fronts getting power and spinning even turned. …
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EVERY $5.00 SPENT ON ANY GEAR BELOW WILL GET YOU ENTERED INTO A GIVEAWAY FOR ONE (1) OF THE FOLLOWING ITEMS: 1. 6.7L Nozzles up to 300% with free install, balance, and flowsheet 2. DAP Screaming Eagle SX-E Turbo up to 72mm with turbine housing 3. Dodge 5.9L Cummins DAP Reman 50hp or 100hp Injectors 4. Quadzilla Adrenaline for iPhone or Android, Valve Springs, and Up to 7x.014 injectors 5. 3k/4k or 5k Governor spring kit, Delivery Valves, AFC Kit, Valve Springs and Retainers, and up to 5x.018 Injectors Save up to 20% off DAP Products! Overstock Clearance List over …
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I most likely lost the head gasket again from the stupid idea of having 6 pressurized oil slots in a head gasket. I did pressure test it and I also know a trick for telling the difference between the head gasket and the oil cooler, it’s simple actually. Anyhow, head planed, Mahle head gasket, 40# boost, ported head, injectors, Governor Springs, 20* timing, Hamilton cam ect. Any thoughts on an MLS gasket or just silicone the hell out of another gasket and try? Only other thought is cracked head but I doubt it.
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Hi, i bought and install a governor spring kit, installed it on my truck, and here is the part where im confused... The kit came with 3 spring, if i understood correctly, for a 3k kit, i dont use the small spring. Here is the issue, my pump as already been tampered with, when i took all the spring out, except the largest one on the outside, it only had 2 spring,ther was no small spring. Is it because one is missing. Or for a 3k install, there is no small spring at all in the pump? I install all 3 of them anyway, with a auto transmission, do you think it will shift at 3k or 4k? Im asking cause the valve spring are still stock. thx for your time
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I most likely lost the head gasket again from the stupid idea of having 6 pressurized oil slots in a head gasket. I did pressure test it and I also know a trick for telling the difference between the head gasket and the oil cooler, it’s simple actually. Anyhow, head planed, Mahle head gasket, 40# boost, ported head, injectors, Governor Springs, 20* timing, Hamilton cam ect. Any thoughts on an MLS gasket or just silicone the hell out of another gasket and try? Only other thought is cracked head but I doubt it.
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I just got the head back from the shop. Measure 0.007 of warp, no cracks, 6 bad valve guides (all exhaust), and the #6 exhaust valve was bent near the keepers. The bad, no smoking guns as to why the gasket failed. Any ideas? Maybe I didn't get the head torqued correctly? It lasted about 10,000 miles before it failed. It did not mix with oil or get into the cylinders. Unfortunately, I did not grab a picture of the gasket I pulled off, however, I have a doodle of the new gasket as to where it failed. The red is where the gasket failed, the blue is the path of the coolant. It failed near #2 and #5 and was starting to fail on #3&4.
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I most likely lost the head gasket again from the stupid idea of having 6 pressurized oil slots in a head gasket. I did pressure test it and I also know a trick for telling the difference between the head gasket and the oil cooler, it’s simple actually. Anyhow, head planed, Mahle head gasket, 40# boost, ported head, injectors, Governor Springs, 20* timing, Hamilton cam ect. Any thoughts on an MLS gasket or just silicone the hell out of another gasket and try? Only other thought is cracked head but I doubt it.
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Hello All. My P pump is shot. Wondering where I should get another one. Truck is a 96 5spd with 375k on it. My camper stays on the truck most of the time and I tow a 12’ single axle trailer maxed out. I want to stay with the stock turbo. Currently I have a BHAF, 4” exhaust, SAC 5x.011 145° injectors from power driven diesel, delivery valves(I think the marine ones but not sure), timing at 16.5 and my clutch will handle 350hp. My thoughts were a pump with 3K governor springs timed at 18° and whatever delivery valves make the most sense. I am in Moab Utah. Thank you very much. cheeseberger
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Hi, everyone so I have problem and I can’t find anywhere online with the same problem. I have 97 12v Cummins 2wd automatic i notice that my engine was missing a lot of oil almost no oil at all, so I change the oil filter and added new oil to the engine I went on a 200 mile trip came back it was night time so I waited till the next day to take a look at oil dip stick and again the engine had tiny marker on the dip stick of oil left, i add more oil told my wife to rev up the engine to around 2000 to 3000 rpms and after 3 mins of that my Breather tube was gushing out oil found the problem but don’t know what is the solution I don’t know if is a piston or head gasket want to …
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I recently changed the oil pressure sensor and must have broken a wire in the harness because the gauges were all dead and wait to start light was flashing when i got done. The local diesel mechanic decided it was a broken ground wire in the harness and instead of tearing the harness apart, just added a ground wire to the tps sensor plug. Its a manual truck so it doesnt have a tps. Everything was back to normal and worked great. A few days later the ac quit cooling completely, like i flipped a switch. I saw that it had a blown fuse so i replaced and swapped relays and it popped as soon as I turned the ac on. I unplugged the compressor from the harness, put in another fuse…
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Hi, i modified the fuel pump, p pumps 7100 bosch 2nd gen, on a 5.9L 12V and noticed that the diaphragm that is control by the boost pressure is cracked... does anybody know if diaphragm from 93, first gen, are the same? im asking because they sell some on amazone. if not anybody knows where i can find one. thanks
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I have a slight knock/ping to my motor that has slowly developed. Fuel pressure is 16 at idle, 19 running down the road. Slight black smoke at throttle increase from idle. Noise can be heard bouncing off structures. Not really feeling a power decrease. Uploading a video. It sounds like an injector but quieter than any videos I have seen/heard. Going to crack the injectors unless you guys think of something else to stop me. Going to be taking the truck on a 600 mile trip soon. 20200629_205502.mp4
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Good evening, I am a new member and this is my first post, so bare with me please. I am running a 1994 2500 Cummins 4x4 with the NV 4500. It has a 3000 rpm governor spring, slightly larger delivery valves and 5x.013 injectors. I pull a heavy RV trailer and am looking for a low rpm, high boost turbo that will keep some control of my EGT'S. I had a 58/67/6 for a week that I absolutely loved, but it blew the front bearing out of it. Any suggestions of a comparable turbo out there would be VERY appreciated. Thank you in advance!
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So, I keep going on forums, asking the same questions I feel like, but I just want to make sure I am making the right decision before I dive into anything. 1996 12 valve 5 spd, 325K miles (got sold to me saying it had 25K on the rebuild, love being lied to). I had some sludge looking stuff in the oil, took a sample, sent it in and got results of high potassium and sodium and some copper also (sample document attached). After the results, I changed the oil and filter. Obviously, this would mean some coolant in the oil, but here is my dilemma. The amount of coolant I have lost is very very little. I drove it about 60 miles after the oil change the other day and lost…
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I have replaced the output shaft speed sensor and governor solenoid and transducer and still no automatic shifting but will shift manually to third with relay removed
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02420917-FAC4-4023-A600-547735BB9B9B.MOV So the truck has been doing this since I bought it I’ve pulled injectors and cleaned them up a little and resealed I’ve changed the fuel hose from Lp to Ip and installed a fp gauge the truck holds 40psi at idle and goes down slightly at wot any advice on what to check next I know the truck shouldn’t sound like that
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My fuel gauge never work since I got the truck so I went out bought a new Sending unit from rockauto.com couple days late I drop the tank took out the old install the new one Put the tank back up and turn on the truck and the fuel gauge was working great!! Till I had to go to the store I notice my needle would move up to full then back to empty then stay in the middle the whole ride was like that so I fill up the tank to see if anything would change and nothing happen. Got in touch with rock auto told them that the sending was bad if they can send me a new one did the process again I took off I was told that the sending unit has a arrow on top and it has to …
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