2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

My starter took a dump and after pulling it off found that it's an AC Delco and not a Denso. Can this starter be rebuilt and is it worth it?

So, I drive a 96 2500 and like most have the "sticky starter" issue. The starter stuck the other night and didn't release as fast as it normally does when this happens. So after listening to the metal on metal for 2 minutes I unplugged the FSS and it stopped running. Plugged it back in and cranked a few times but wouldn't start. Popped the hood after bumping the starter and manually pushed the FSS up. The hold wire did its job and I went on like this for a couple of days. My buddy noticed that the blue wire that has the internal fuse connected to the driverside battery was corroded, so we put a new connector on it. Tried to start it and the wire as well as the FSS got ve…

Hello Everybody. My current project, Long story short, is a 94 Ram 2500 2X4 NV4500 that has been re-bodied with a 78 Dodge Ramcharger body. I am going to converting it to 4X4 and Auto. I also have a 01 Ram 2500 4X4 47RE, DTT built, that I use as my daily driver and tow rig. What I would like to do is to swap the transmissions. As I would prefer to tow with a manual transmission and have the auto for play. I know that for the 01, I have to convert the NV4500 to a 4X4 output shaft and tail housing and that the 47RH was behind the 94 12 valve. I know that in 96 the RH was swapped to the RE and I have compared the PCM pinouts between the 96 and the 01, and as far…

Ok so I'll try to make it short sweet and to the point as best I can. I recently put my truck back on the road after many years of it waiting its turn to be finished. It's a 97 ram 2500 2wd nv4500 single cab , with 201 xxx on the clock. I installed a big input southbend dual disk, turbo, wheels tires blah blah blah. Well after 111.6 miles of breaking it back in, I noticed my speed and odometer just quit. No ABS light no air bag light like I've a lot of people have pop up under this condition. First thing first I pulled the transmission speedo drive sensor, cleaned it re installed.....nothing Next I pulled the rear diff wheel speed sensor, cleaned it...nothing.…

Anyone use the toilet paper filter Frantz ? If so what does oil analysis look like pre frantz and after? What keeps the paper in frantz container and not going into engine once toilet paper gets saturated . If you have one... would you do it again? I've read below article and wonder if any updates or any other input. Thanks

Yesterday, a guy asked me about what I knew about some new oil Cummins is going to. (I know nothing) then we got talking about oil changes and stuff. He said he "cleans his sensors every other oil change". First time I ever heard of cleaning any sensors. Am I missing something or is this for the big horse power guys, or maybe people like me are stock and don't put on many miles (lots of sitting)? If good idea, clean what sensors? Any write ups on cleaning them? Thanks for any responses.

So I'm looking at picking up a project for 3k it basically needs wiring harness dash and engine, whole dash and transmission then put her all back together. What are your thoughts worth it or not? I replaced the body on mine already so I kinda know I'm getting into but this is a 12 valve versus 24 valve should be easier right . https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/6185014700.html

I need help locating a pinion seal for my truck .it's a 2001 dodge ram 3500 2wd 6 speed with a Spicer yoke. I replaced it and is still leaking.

I am fixing to purchase a 1994 cummins 4x4 5-speed. On the top of the P7100/P-Pump there is the injector lines and delivery valves. What is the metal piece that attaches to the injection pump where the delivery valve goes into the pump? It is cracked and I want to know if it can just purchase 6 of these top pieces and just replace them? It is the front injection line that I noticed leaking through the crack.

Ok this is driving me nuts. On my 97 if you use heavy throttle it will down shift from overdrive & unlock the converter even with switches for both to force lockup & overdrive. I did replace the tps with a tps delete with no change. What does not make sense to me is it will do it regardless of the switches. Yes there is a jumper harness for the trans relay in the pdc under hood. It does have an old school dtt voltage box from a previous owner that I am thinking is going to take a permanent vacation. Truck is all stock, no power mods. Previous owner had recently replaced the electronics in the transmission. Switches are tied into the harness near the pcm.

I am having an issue with my transmission/Charging system, I only have first gear until the vehicle warms up then it shifts hard to second. then finally shifts to third but doesn't downshift back to first just have 2nd and 3rd. Oh and the truck wont charge past 13.6. Also strange but if you drive it until its dead and jump start it the next day everything works fine for about 5 min. So far I have changed ESS Alternator Battery cables Cleaned and tested all grounds Replaced burnt harness at Transmission (thought this was wierd) Gov. Pressure solenoid …

I have 150 hp injectors, timing set to 16 degrees, 191 dvs, i ground the fuel plate to #0, set the housing and plate all the way forward and i cant even get a haze of smoke (just to see if i am getting more fuel). Ive tried adjusting smoke screw and nothing i do is making a difference. What could be wrong? I just want to be able to tune this thing right.

I am new here to the site, but I am having an issue with my Dodge. I had some issues starting my truck, when I turned the key over lights would come on and truck would start but showed no voltage, and abs/ parking brake lights on and gauges showed no voltage or tach, oil pressure nothing. Next time it would just click when the key was turned over, tried again a few times and it started. So I decided to test my ignition switch and found it to be bad, no voltage when the key was turned to start. Fixed the starting problem or at least i thought so. Now my GEN light is on, wont shift out of first, and my voltage is staying at 12v until engine warms up to 180 degrees then, shi…

Anyone have any experience with this? Trying to turn our 97 dually to a single.

I've had this strange knocking sound going on for the past few months and I'm not sure what it is. It does it while idling, while driving at a steady speed, while accelerating, but NOT while coasting. It doesn't sound like piston slap or bad bearings, at least not to me. Here's a video of the sound I'm talking about: As you can hear my idle is still set too high

Neighbors son in law bought 1997 from his aunt after his uncle died. 1 ton 4x4. Sure looks good. Not one single dent. Completely stock. 131,000 miles. Right mirror wiggles around at freeway speeds and one crome wheel hub is missing. Wish I would of found it.

Hey all, I need some auto transmission advice. My brother-in-law is wanting to trade his 04 hemi for a 96 cummins. Anyway the trans has some issues. I've got the 01 24v 5 speed so I don't know how to advise him and I'm hoping you all can help me out. Apparently this truck is sometimes hard to get to shift, but if you wiggle the selector, then it will sometimes shift through the gears, but tonight my brother in law said the owner was unable to get it into reverse. Do these issues sound like it could be the selector linkage, or is the owner just trying to make this sound like an easy fix? Just trying to determine if this is in need of a full rebuild or something like a va…

Hello all new to the site, probably the best I've seen out there. Anyways I'm dropping a 1967 Travelall onto a 1997 3500 chassis and drivetrain. Does anyone have a write up on what needs to be hooked up on the harness for the transmission to work correctly? Also someone told me about installing a rheostat? To help with shifting?

I am putting my 1997 Dodge 3500 Cummins back together after a wreck. I do not have ignition feed to the alt. and the tack does not work and no ground to the a/c compressor relay. Any ideas?

Having an intermittent problem with my 1995 12v lately. It's loosing overdrive while driving down the road and also the ac stopps cooling at the same time. The overdrive on/off button does not light and has no function when this occurs. I can manually lock the converter in 3 when this occurs. This happened first Tuesday night leaving dinner and by the time I got home, 5 miles, and turned it off in the driveway, they do switch light was working fine. Tonight we went to dinner and everything worked as normal but when we left dinner, it never would shift to 4. I pulled over and unplugged the factory temp sensor with no change. Drove to Cheesecake Factory and when we came out…