2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

From around 1700rpm on up there is a slight popping/sputtering sound while accelerating from 1/2 throttle on up and it gets worse with a load. The first thing I did was install a fuel pressure gauge to help diagnose/ eliminate possible causes. The results are as follows: Idle: 22psi2500 RPM (no load): 38psiPressure never drops below 20psi while doing a WOT run.This is the truck's current setup:*100 plate and AFC full forward. *Stock injectors that were cleaned, pop tested, and shimmed a couple years ago. *1st Gen air filter (was on the truck when I bought it, been meaning to do a BHAF). *Stock HX35 in good working order, minor amount of play and zero contact w…

Regardless of throttle position my 1-2 shifts happen at 5 mph or less. Sometimes it will start in 2nd, drop to 1st, then immediately shift back to 2nd. I've adjusted the TV cable to no effect. Manually shifting the trans results in perfect operation. The trans was rebuilt by a local shop who screwed me over pretty good so I'm not exactly sure what's actually been done to it. The VB should have a DTT shift kit still in it, which I had installed about a year before the rebuild. My 1-2 shifts have always been the way I described, even before the shift kit and remained the same after the rebuild. During the build all of the electronics in the VB were supposed to be replaced b…

First, thanks for the help and hand-holding through my oil cooler failure - no more oil in the coolant, and oil analysis shows no coolant in the oil. Still have a minor coolant leak - I think I have it localized to the thermostat seal rings but not sure. Could be head gasket but no indication of gas in the cooling system - it is an external leak, whatever. Did y'all know that antifreeze fluoresces in black light all by itself, without any fluorescent dye added? Weird. Anyway, temperature gauge was acting like the thermostat was stuck open - taking forever to even budge off the peg and never really getting up to temp, so I took changed the thermostat out. …

After reading the fuel system threads that Cowboy and Dauntless89 (thank you both for the info) have posted over on cummins forum I decided to do some work to my fuel system since I have been having some issues with fuel supply since going to bigger injectors. What I did was run new 1/2" supply line from the fuel tank all the way up to the injection pump. At the tank I have a G&R diesel sump with integrated return (return unused atm) with a 1/2" NPT to 8jic push lock onto the fuel line. From the tank it goes straight to the lift pump where I have a 1/2" NPT 90° with another 1/2" NPT to 8jic push lock onto the fuel line on the fuel inlet, and on the fuel out…

This morning I was on my way to work not even a mile from home I let of the throttle to slow down for a curve and the I heard a pop then I got the lovley sound of a great missing teeth, limped her back to the house in second and just finished taking it out tonight. I found that what happened is the main shaft 5th gear washer broke and a piece got between the main shaft 5th and country shaft 5th and took a chunk of gears out of them. Anyone have any ideas what would cause that washer to break up into many pieces? On the bright side I have it down to where I can pull the transfercase and trans out by myself in less than a hour and a half

Usually I search the Forum before asking, usually find the answer. Breaking protocol this time and asking first - small panic. 1995 12 valve 5 speed, 576k miles. On the way home from work last night, noted temp guage a little higher than typical, not high but not where it sits normally. This morning, found radiator cooland about 1-2" lower than filler neck, some oily-looking emulsion in it. Immediately thought "head gasket!" Oil level on dipstick a little low - half quart or so, only ~1,500 miles since last oil change. No sign of coolant / bubbles on dipstick. Pressure tested radiator, holds pressure. Radiator cap does not - it is bad. Ashamed …

I've got an oil leak. Appears to be the hydro/vacuum pump. Not enough to leave oil spots on customers driveways, but where I park YES. there is what appears to be a weep hole like on a water pump. Is that where the oil comes out? Would best access be provided by pulling the radiator? I need to clean mine anyway. I've got big hands and they don't fit so well in little spaces.

Help, I know I have seen a tech article or something on my leak in the past, just can't seem to find it now. I have oil leaking from between my power steering pump and what ever the pump in front of it is? maybe a hydro boost pump? sits below the injector pump. As I have the truck torn down for body work I would like to repair the seals ect if avalable. Many Thanks in advance!!

I'm getting conflicting reports as to need for PCM/ECM replacement necsseity.

Anyone buy parts from Rock Auto and were you satisfied ?

so inherited grandpa's 94 regular cab long box 4x4 auto trans... 94000 km's not sure how many miles... 50k maybe... it's been sitting in a garage for 5 years without being started... seeing as i don't have much money how long can i let it sit there??? some people say i can start it some say drain all the diesel? Thinking it's been sitting for 5 years what's a few more... garage is heated and truck is mint... probably worth keeping. I have 3 kids so the regular cab doesn't work for us... breaks my heart to even think of selling this truck

I have a 98 12 valve that i cant find my connector for the coolant temp sensor. i have torn my engine bay aprt trying to find it. i have everything but that connector i have the sensor in its a 2 wire sensor cannot find out which harness it comes from no wiring diagrams of a 98 nothing im lost and its holding me up worked before so i know its there or something ive searched and searched cant find it

Hey every one, just wondering if anyone else has had this issue. After a 3hr run lets say from MPLS,MN. to Duluth, MN. 190 miles. I get to hotel turn key off and pull it out but truck still running. this has happened a couple times now. I let it run for bout 10 minutes while I checked in but still wont turn off. had to put in gear and let clutch out. thnx in advance.

For a little while now my fuel heater has been leaking some so the other day I deleted it and made a video of the process to post up here. With out anything further here's the video.

I finally ordered some transmission parts last week! Called Goerend and ordered an 800/300 tripple disk converter, full valve body and transmission pan. Also ordered a TCS billet input shaft and all the other goodies to make it go. I had planned on building it myself with a buddy that used to work on these trucks for a living but we are just to busy, so tonight I dropped it off at a local transmission builder. It had a factory rebuild not to long ago so I'm hoping no other parts will need replacing. I can't wait to get this thing back!

Hey guys, I'm trying to help out a co-worker with his truck. He has a 98 12v and told me today that his alternator will not charge at idle. He said that he replaced the alternator but it didn't change anything. I know that the voltage regulator is built in to the PCM. I read somewhere that one of the sensors it takes it readings from is the crank position sensor but I don't know what the others are. Could anyone share how the system works and any ideas what might be going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

98 3500 5 speed with 186k miles. I was driving down the highway today with everything working as normal and all of the sudden it died and all may gauges went to zero. Tried to restart it several times and it would fire up and die right away. Tied up the fuel shutoff solenoid and drove it home with no gauges. Also for the past year my radio has been cutting in and out and my overhead display went out. I also had to wire in an external voltage regulator. I hate electrical issues so I figured the old mechanical 12v was the truck for me, I guess I figured wrong. Do you guys think my pcm is going bad causing all my issues or where do you think I should start?

I'm looking to buy another truck for daily use and more abuse then the one I got, found one on line for 2700 obo. It's a 97 12 valve and all rusted out 4x4 extended cab long box, 250k nv4500 haven't been driven much lately guy says it lost power a few years back and he just parked it. I asked him if he checked fuel pressure and he said no. An older guy that just doesn't care. He owned it from 99, What do you guys think, maybe if I can't get it running cheap, then it should worth that in parts? But I would love to get it going and drive it daily. Basically I want to have a bitter truck and see if I can get it 1000000 ml.