261k miles and my NV4500 finally died. Not the 5th gear nut. I lost both 3rd and 4th gear. I was just leaving my place pulling the trailer back to New Meadows, ID with the a truck on the deck. Got into 3rd and the stick was rattling oddly. Poured the fuel to her to get rolling and it popped out of gear. Difficult to get into 4th. I knew the transmission had lost a bearing or something. Got up to New Meadows flats and check everything over no leaks. 1st gear works fine, 2nd gear works fine, 3rd pushing against you and BANG! Then tried 4th its missing. Rowed to 5th and barely had enough power to get the truck going. I had another 5-6 miles to go before cell service. I got a hold of the owner of the trailer and truck and told him to meet me at the 45th parallel.  So we swapped truck and and loaded mine up and I got trailed home.

 

I know Jon (Dynamic Transmissions) doesn't do manuals but I still asked if he knew of anyone. I talked to Muddy of Idaho Turbo Diesels he told me to call Six States Distributing. So I called there main office and they can get me a NV4500 for $1500.00 with a $1530.00 core. (Holy Crap Core Price!) So I found out Six States has a Boise Office but just missed them they are closed.

 

Just for fun I called NAPA and there price was $2359.00 with a $484.00 core. No go there...

 

Funny I didn't break the input shaft because I still got 1st, 2nd, 5th and Reverse. Just 3rd and 4th are gone.

Sorry to hear this, Mike.

 

But I'm with the rest of the guys... You can handle this, no problem! 

 

Did you make any more headway tearing into it?

What about something like this Mike?

 

 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I don't have either. I'm looking to do a single ISSPro Trans Temp gauge and the two sensors. One for the transmission and then one for the rear differential then add a toggle switch to toggle either transmission or rear differential temps. I'm thinking ahead on this one...

 

When I was trying to figure out where I was going to stick one more gauge I thought about the doing what you're thinking and using a toggle switch.  Sounded like a good idea except I was going to do either of two things.....  Find myself constantly flipping a toggle switch back and forth making sure the temps were always in check, or eventually leave it alone just so everyone in the truck wouldnt ask me what I was doing.  Then I kinda figured whats the point of having a gauge that I cant look at all the time.  So I got the Westach dual temp gauge.

By the way, Geno's version has no component specification but Westach does make them with identifying component names on the gauge.  I got the Geno's version before I figured that out and have threatened to get the other one from Westach.  But now I know what numbers go to what component so..... 

Thats what I linked too KATOOM.  How was the install running wires n such in the column for two seperate readings?

 

 

anyhow i have a pod that's yours for the having. just say the word. or to anyone else if Mike doesn't want it. just cover the shipping.

On 4/20/2016 at 6:06 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

The the truck I trailered back to the owner was a 6 speed I really don't like it. Row out 4 gears to get to 30 MPH the 5th and 6th which is the same at the NV4500. Like in my 5 speed I row out 1st to 3rd gear to get to  30 MPH then got 4th (1:1) and 5th (0.75) that are the same as the NV5600 (5th is actually 0.73)or G56.

 

Hopefully you can find something in the shifting mechanism to fix, but if not I would reconsider the 6 speed. 

 

Give it a few more miles... there is a reason that 5 speeds quit being offered. The added gear between 1 and direct sure is nice for towing and these mountain roads. I have driven a 5 speed on the roads around here and you can KEEP it... the added gear may be an extra shift but it sure isn't worth the gear gap. 

 

The 6 speeds have a ~10% lower 2nd gear which makes starting in 2nd much easier and 1st is nearly always skipped unless towing above around 15K GCW. 

 

If your spending money you should strongly consider the 6 speed. 

 

OD is actually different on the NV4500, NV5600, G56 AD, and G56 AE. G56 AD is 0.79:1 (great for towing) and the AE is 0.74:1. 

 

45 mph is a great example. (265/75R16 and 3.73's)

 

NV4500 is either at 3069, 1838, or 1378. 

NV5600 is either at 2555, 1838, or 1342. 

 

NV5600 for the win when towing. 

 

Above 50 the differences start to minimize as there are enough rpms in direct to use it on most hills, but if you have to slow for a corner... well you get the idea. 40 in a NV4500 is either 2728 or 1634, neither of which is great for acceleration or steady hill climbing. 

 

Or look at fixed rpms, like 2200. 

NV4500: 10,18,32,54,72

NV5600: 10,16,26,39,54,74

 

 

I do know several people that prefer the 5 speed for empty driving but for anything with a trailer they all prefer the 6 speed once they get a couple miles on it. 

 

 

I never understood why Dodge didn't publish a fluid change interval for the manual transmissions. 

Edited April 23, 20168 yr by AH64ID

Hell just do it the right way all around then and stick with the 5 speed then add a 4 speed brownie box behind that and transplant a two speed rear axle into the old girl. Or find an 18 speed eaton with under drive granny gear and double OD gears. Either way you will be covered for every scenario.

Edited April 23, 20168 yr by Wild and Free

6 hours ago, notlimah said:

Thats what I linked too KATOOM.  How was the install running wires n such in the column for two seperate readings?

 

 

 

The wiring isnt bad.  The hardest part was running all the way back from the differential, mating up with the transmission wire and then feeding both of them up to the gauge.  Thats a long distance to reach through and around stuff and properly secure.

 

To point out, I also added quick connectors not far from both sensors so that I could unplug them and watch which needle stopped reading temps.  This is how I initially identified which needle was reading which component too, and if I have a reason to take something apart I just disconnect the fitting instead of cutting and re-splicing wires.

 

But I have to ask.....  Hey Mike, hows it going?  I cant imagine its taken you this long to pull that tranny out and see whats going on?  The curiosity is up as I'm hoping the issue is merely related to the shift tower.

Busy... Working on 2006 Dodge for the weekend... @Taz is going to help me drop the trans this morning...

Nice looking truck there.....

Got the transmission out. No broken gear teeth. 3rd and 4th gear syncro is broken.

You can select 3rd or 4th gear by sliding the shift collar and the shaft is free spin yet till it hits a snag in the shaft then hooks but not enough to pull the truck.

How to the surfaces of the teeth look? Any sign of pitting or surface fatigue?

 

If I remember correctly there's only one bearing you have to pull to get down to the 3/4 syncro. Are you planning on a complete rebuild with all new bearings and syncros or just a new syncro and call it good?

Well... Errr... Ummm... I have no idea what I'm doing...

 

I got the top cover off but no idea how to get the shaft out...

58 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

How to the surfaces of the teeth look?

 

Good normal wear appearance...

 

59 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Any sign of pitting or surface fatigue?

 

None that I seen... Know more if I find a way to get it apart. (Dunce Smiley)

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

                                                        A Mobile Idaho Patio.

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I got the top cover off but no idea how to get the shaft out...

 Did you pull 5th gear off first. Try pulling the races and/or bearings off the counter shaft, that will drop the counter shaft away from the main shaft and free it up.

While it's apart I'd replace all syncros and bearings, no questions asked.

Edited April 23, 20168 yr by IBMobile

Its only my opinion based on the crap replacement parts I've heard are available for this transmission, but if everything looks good other than that syncro, I might consider pulling it apart just enough to replace that one syncro and put it back together.  Sounds crazy but if everything specs out then why pay money to fill it full of parts inferior to what you already have?  If I could find some quality bearings then I'd consider them though.....

3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Did you pull 5th gear off first. Try pulling the races and/or bearings off the counter shaft, that will drop the counter shaft away from the main shaft and free it up.

While it's apart I'd replace all syncros and bearings, no questions asked

 

Tomorrow I'll try pulling the rear cover off and and do this... I want to clean the case out really good there is crud in the oil holes. I want to clean it out really well.

Pictures.....where's all the pictures?

Well I'm going to give up on the idea of rebuilding it. I finally found an document explaining the rebuild process and all the expensive tools you need for removing bearing, nuts and and other hardware. By the time I buy all the tools I need to just get the whole thing apart I could of bought a re-manufactured transmission from some where without the headache...

 

  http://www.zieglerdigital.ca/public/downloads/nv4500rbman.pdf

 

Like for example bearing puller... I don't have one.

 

Then its really nice after tracking it all down to find out the tool is DISCONTINUED...

 

Heck just for one socket...

http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=2011

 

Like I said by the time I gather all the tools I still going to be knee deep in debt.

 

 

Edited April 24, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

Oh come on Mike, where's your inner redneck?

 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-drivetrain-except-engine/516911-diy-nv4500-rebuild-information.html

 

Also, we have the same service manual in the download section... hehe

Edited April 25, 20168 yr by Cowboy

                                  You don't need no stinking special tools. 

                                               

    A hammer, chisel,a pair of vice-grips and a gun to finish it off, are all the special tools you need.