Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

So the latest iQuad app update with this released yet?

Sounds to me like dap may be slacking. Unused vacation time maybe...

I just bought a set 50's from DAP 3 or 4 weeks ago and got them in 3 days. Must have been right off the shelf.

On 3/25/2017 at 8:55 AM, dripley said:

I just bought a set 50's from DAP 3 or 4 weeks ago and got them in 3 days. Must have been right off the shelf.

 

Purchased mine on March 13, 2017... Still waiting for them to ship. Suppose to ship by March 27, 2017. That would be a full 2 week wait. 

On 3/22/2017 at 7:28 AM, Me78569 said:

After some feedback from various people @Quadzilla Power was good enough to bump the canbus low limit for 0 -4 psi settings to %125 rather than %115. 


Really for stock injector trucks only, but  that does mean that Torque mangement should be overcome if you set your race tune to be %125 off the line.  

Any expectations when this latest update will come out?

It's already out.  The base tune never had a limit only the app side had a limit, just update your vehcile profile by going to vehicle selection then select your vehcile again.  It will prompt you to update.

Anyone still using the "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" profile on the app should switch to the year range V2 profile now.   I am doing some testing on unrelated stuff and have changed some stuff with the profile.  If you update the profile  you will be confused.

@Me78569 I'm confused, when will I be confused more, if I update "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" or switch to vehicle select profile and update it. And does that mean we'll have to retype all of our settings to a new profile and delete them from old profile. 

Don't update the V2 Quadzilla-only profile.  you will be confused....

 

Sadly yes you will have to retype your profiles.  You can write them down or just not update the vehicle profile.  I am hoping the tune export function of the app will come along shortly.

@Me78569 Gotcha, that makes since now. You updated "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" for something you're working on, and we should update to vehicle year profile as it's been updated to what the "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" used to be or something like that. Would it be safe to stay with "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" that we loaded originally few months ago? Or is there a better reason to upgrade the app.

As long as you don't update the vehicle you are fine.  Lol

 

If you load the app on another device choose the year range vehicle profile.

 

No pushing reason to change if you don't update the profile.

Hey guys, wanted to introduce myself officially to the V2 testing thread. I'm Kole. I have a 2001 2500 4x4 Automatic with ridiculous 7x.014 VCO injectors (woops...) and compounds. And I live in Saskatchewan, Canada. Yes it gets really cold here.

 

I just finished reading through all 44 pages in their entirety. Oddly enough it kinda feels like I know some of you guys now. I actually started testing V2 on September 12th of last year (conveniently on my birthday). I reached out to Quad directly over the phone about some tuning advice, and we got to talking. When I told them about my setup and issues with low end smoke/spool up, they told me about V2 tuning, and they agreed to let me try it. I did a couple data logs regarding torque management that they requested and I played around for months after that (until my truck had enough torque to point out a defect in my TC lockup clutch in mid December. Double woops.)

 

Got the thing back on the road this past Friday, around which time I discovered this thread. I had no idea this was going on. I was in contact with Spencer long ago via email, who was helpful, and apparently possibly Nick at one point? Maybe a different Nick? Who knows. Anyway, I was blown away to see all the cooperative testing and effort put in. And Nick getting whipped like the family Mule and coming back for more. Good stuff. I do industrial automation for a living and programming is a big part of my job. I definitely smell what you're stepping in.

 

So I missed a crap load of updates, but I'm caught up now on the most recent flash. I freakin love it. The low psi timing reduction scared the crap out of me since I've never heard the truck sound with retarded timing. Free revving it is also different, sounds kinda neat. My spool up is definitely better. One thing I noticed is that it's not the timing reduction alone that speeds up spool up. The timing reduction is actually allowing me to run at least 10% more canbus fuelling from 0-5psi with LESS smoke than on regular timing. The result is... cool. Very cool. I can have very respectable spool times and just keep a gentle haze. Score.

 

I'm going to try to get close to a daily driving tune tomorrow (with no wiretap), and I plan on working back and forth between Canbus fuelling and timing adjustments, as it seems like they affect each other to a certain degree. This is way too much fun. I'll post a tune and any interesting findings as they become relevant. If you prefer I can leave the tunes out of this thread and move over to the custom tunes thread with that business.

 

Anyway, thanks for the hard work, and I look forward to helping any way I can. Viva La VP44.

 

-Kole

Same Nick..Well the coder formallly known as Nick

 

Thanks a TON for those data logs back then bud.  they really helped.  I am pretty sure you can overwhelm TM now.  If you still have issues with it.... let me know 

 

 

Interesting to hear your spool vs timing vs canbus fueling.    I would love to see some videos out the back when you are driving hard.  

 

I know my truck is %100 clean on lug down and WOT snaps, but I have baby injectors.  

One thing that's huge for me is towing. It was very hard before, lots of manual shifting, and hard not to lug and cause Armageddon out the tailpipe. Reason being, let's say I need to downshift in order not to lug. So to downshift I need more throttle to pull the trans TV cable. Without low boost de-fueling, by the time I can get a downshift I've made like a squid and inked out the highway. Now it has enough buffer, especially while in cruise control, to slooooowly pull the go pedal down and get a downshift for optimum load before heavy fuel is dumped in. Big win.

You are a bit brave with that single disc and compounds. Especially with an hx35 on the manifold lol

He and I am bird of a feather....Our home built 47res have unicorn dust keeping them together.

 

Ain't no stopping that.

Send me some for this 12v. Oh a vp and ecm while you are at it. Want to play with this quadzilla more. Keith dropped off the face of the Earth with his. Traveling for work in Kentucky & Tennessee. 

59 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

You are a bit brave with that single disc and compounds. Especially with an hx35 on the manifold lol

Haha, yeah that's probably true. However, the shop I deal with warrantied the first one, as they said it would handle the power, and they built the VB. They traded me straight up for a 48RE converter this time, and put a different mount on my pump so the 48RE converter could fit. They think she'll last, so we'll give it a go, haha. Upped the line pressure a little and drilled a couple more "speed holes" in the VB. I could have spent the extra $800 CAD for a triple disk... But I didn't feel right about doing that on my stock input shafts, especially on my locked 3-4 shifts.

Ahhh ok that makes a bit more sense then. Yes no triples with stock inputs.

Another thing learned for Mopar1973Man high idle and Quadzilla owners. Make sure you select OFF or MPG mode before rolling. If your using warm-up mode on Quadzilla it will lock to stock timing till the coolant temperature rises above the set point on the Quadzilla. It would be good reason to hook up the power leads and still the extra hole for the LED to shine through.