Need a new set more than likely. Going to Getty mine bench tested. But need good information beforehand just in case. 

 

Shed your knowledge on injectors on me. Who to go with and why. 

 

I've heard a bit but need set straight on some things. My DAP set is less than 40k on me and at least one of them is bad. I don't like that idea...

Did you get new sealing washers on the return line banjos? They are a double washer that sleeves over both sides of the female banjo bolt hole. Torque to 6 ft lbs. each.

 

Also injector retaining nuts get torqued to 44 ft lbs.. Did you put a dab of grease at the bottom of each injector to hold injector sealing washer? You know, not fall off somewhere when you drop them in place!

 

Teflon tape is a big no no. The injectors are sealed down below near where the tip is. The washers are around the tip and the retaining nut pulls the washer down tight to the head down below.

 

The return lines crossing to each injector is sealed by those double washers.

 

Make sure all six injector sealing washers came out with the old injectors.

 

I'M SORRY THE ABOVE IS ONLY APPLICABLE TO THE 12 VALVE ENGINE. Sorry HEXORZ.

Edited February 1, 20178 yr by JAG1

I had same problem, what I ended up doing is take some 1500 send paper and then scotch Brite to fuel lines, they were a bit buggered up by previous owner, I just took my time and made sure they were still round and smooth.  Not saying that's the right way but it worked for me. Also I used new orings on my injectors and crossover tubes, and they went in just fine with some oil on them. 

Give it a few days before you do anything, as long as you don't have hard start problem, there is fuel left in cavity after you bleed the lines and it gets pushed out with heat. Chances are most of them are probably fine now.

Edited February 1, 20178 yr by Dieselfuture

I had the same problem with mine but I installed the injector hold downs and then tightened the lines to the connector tubes. I reversed the process and they stopped. But if I recall you and I already mentioned that earlier in this thread.

37 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Did you get new sealing washers on the return line banjos? They are a double washer that sleeves over both sides of the female banjo bolt hole. Torque to 6 ft lbs. each.

 

Also injector retaining nuts get torqued to 44 ft lbs.. Did you put a dab of grease at the bottom of each injector to hold injector sealing washer? You know, not fall off somewhere when you drop them in place!

 

Teflon tape is a big no no. The injectors are sealed down below near where the tip is. The washers are around the tip and the retaining nut pulls the washer down tight to the head down below.

 

The return lines crossing to each injector is sealed by those double washers.

 

Make sure all six injector sealing washers came out with the old injectors.

 

I'M SORRY THE ABOVE IS ONLY APPLICABLE TO THE 12 VALVE ENGINE. Sorry HEXORZ.

Glad you edited that one. You sure had me  my head.

26 minutes ago, dripley said:

I had the same problem with mine but I installed the injector hold downs and then tightened the lines to the connector tubes. I reversed the process and they stopped. But if I recall you and I already mentioned that earlier in this thread.

Glad you edited that one. You sure had me  my head.

Me too I'm lucky to have a 24 valve. Just went out and looked and realized I don't have a clue .

 

I thought I could help cause I just changed em on my 12 valve. It's different except for the copper sealing washers on the bottom of the injector body. That is the same. Injector retaining nut torque specs should be similar so 28 foot pounds may be a bit soft, but, must make sure all old ones came out with the old injector and new ones did not fall off before inserting them into the head.

They can be a real bear to get sealed up sometimes. Fine sandpaper is a good suggestion if there is a nick or roughness. I just needed to tighten loosen repeat for awhile even making them a little tighter than spec. Takes a while sometimes but you'll get it.

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I had same problem, what I ended up doing is take some 1500 send paper and then scotch Brite to fuel lines, they were a bit buggered up by previous owner, I just took my time and made sure they were still round and smooth.  Not saying that's the right way but it worked for me. Also I used new orings on my injectors and crossover tubes, and they went in just fine with some oil on them. 

Give it a few days before you do anything, as long as you don't have hard start problem, there is fuel left in cavity after you bleed the lines and it gets pushed out with heat. Chances are most of them are probably fine now.

 

Maybe I'll check and see then. But usually i never seen any fuel come out after doing this. Always dry... i might have to buy new crossover tubes and steel lines?

2 hours ago, dripley said:

I had the same problem with mine but I installed the injector hold downs and then tightened the lines to the connector tubes. I reversed the process and they stopped. But if I recall you and I already mentioned that earlier in this thread.

Glad you edited that one. You sure had me  my head.

I tightened up the crossover tubes then did the injectors. I actually didn't even Crack the lines and cranked until it fired and that still didn't even keep them from leaking.

 

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

They can be a real bear to get sealed up sometimes. Fine sandpaper is a good suggestion if there is a nick or roughness. I just needed to tighten loosen repeat for awhile even making them a little tighter than spec. Takes a while sometimes but you'll get it.

 

Next thing im gonna have to try is removing the lines and tubes then Polish them up if that don't work its new tubes and lines. 

I lightly sand the ends of the lines, tubes and the seat for the line with emery paper. Best way I have found yet.

I buggered up a few lines in my time and just removed the lines and the connector tubes and cleaned, lightly sanded with fine sandpaper (600-1000 grit) and the same on the connector tubes. I made a small wooden dowel jig for the sandpaper for doing the connector tubes. Basically, you want to lightly polish the metal so it smooth and the taper of the line can seal in the flute of the connector tube. 

What is the average cost to pop test injectors?

Just talked to a local shop they want $15 each, and he said they don't really flow match these as long as nozzle and pressure same it would flow the same. 

Also could someone provide me a link on how to disassemble and assemble injectors I know I seen it there before.

I have a set of 75 horse injectors with 8 holes in the nozzle, thinking about running them.

 

Thank you.

Man, i went over it all over again and took the lines and tubes out and emery clothed the ends. Loosened up the injector hold downs as well and then tightened up the tubes. Tightened up the hold down and then loosened the lines to bleed them. 

 

I took the emery cloth and covered an end of the injector line and then turned the tube on that to Polish the inside of the tube mating area. Worked really good. 

 

I got really anal on it this time, so I'm crossing my fingers that it'll stop leaking!!! Going to spray everything down with zep degreaser tomorrow and wait and see...

 

I wonder, can a person use some sort of marking compound to see how the mating contacts are? Or is that too high a risk of contaminating the fuel system? Maybe like a permanent marker, that would work, right?

Edited February 5, 20178 yr by hex0rz

6 hours ago, hex0rz said:

wonder, can a person use some sort of marking compound to see how the mating contacts are? Or is that too high a risk of contaminating the fuel system? Maybe like a permanent marker, that would work, right?

Edited 6 hours ago by hex0rz

Dykem Steel Blue might wok for that.

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Dykem Steel Blue might wok for that.

 

Excellent idea. 

Do you think it would actually reveal the contact area since it's not necessarily a moving area?

Don't know until you try but I use it for setting up differential ring gear patterns.  A coating of white lithium grease might work also, I use that from time to time for checking contact points when adjusting hood or door catches.

20 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Dykem Steel Blue might wok for that.

They make a special compound called 'High Spot Blue' just for that purpose.

I'm fed up guys... the lines are STILL leaking.

 

I'm seriously thinking about Teflon tape on the line nuts and see what happens. 

1 hour ago, hex0rz said:

I'm fed up guys... the lines are STILL leaking.

 

I'm seriously thinking about Teflon tape on the line nuts and see what happens. 

No don't do that the smallest piece coming off can cause more problems then you have now.

Your signature says you have over 200k please someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you have done injectors once already with that milage you should replace the tubes.  I have 317k and expect to replace tubes after hearing about leaking issues from a lot of people. The shop near me wouldn't even do injectors with that milage without doing tubes as well. 

Sorry I don't have a better answer 

There was a TSB for early model truck for change out of cross over tubes because it is easy to crush or distort the crossover tubes.

 

Another thought is that it's possible the pooled fuel in the tube area is just expanding out. After doing any injector work I typically ignore the fuel for a few days then power wash and then check. 99% the leak is gone. 

 

DO NOT use any sealants on the nuts or lines it will cause serious issues. Plugging of the cross over tubes, injectors, etc. The sealing point of the system is the o-rings (return rail) and the tapered tip and flute of the crossover tube. So if the leak is truly not going away that means new lines and cross over tubes. 

Edited February 7, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

Can you post or send someone a picture of the tube/line that is causing you a problem. Literally never had an issue with them sealing unless dirty or marked up.

x2 on cross over tubes. First time I did injectors I didn't have a torque wrench and crows foot and I cranked those nuts tight, no leaks. 2nd time doing injectors, I had torqued to spec and had leaks at the nuts on some of the connections, even after over tightening. Replaced the cross over tubes with new, torque to spec and no sealing issues. 

 

Don't give up @hex0rz, you'll get it!