I've realized that part of doing business is accepting whats available. Such as the nearly impossible 2nd gen 5 spd Trans on a fair priced truck. I found a very clean 2nd gen one ton dually, nearly perfect, it is priced right but, has the automatic trans.

 

My question is... do the one tons come with a better built trans? More reliable? It has 177 K miles.

It's a 1996.... are the front end problems the same as the 2002 trucks with trac bar and tie rods and BJs'?

 

I might add, it was a power company truck so it was regularly maintained and will check fluids, and how she runs in the morning.

Edited January 17, 20178 yr by JAG1

Yep that's what happens when you own a 1st and 2nd gen for years. Knowing what to look for is a big plus when you stay with the same trucks.

On 1/17/2017 at 11:31 AM, JAG1 said:

Just called the guy and he told me the truck does not go into overdrive on the transmission. Should I stay away?

Had one not going into lock up. Found the brake switch was bad. Preventing it from going into lock up. The ecu saw that the brake was on.  Easy fix. 

Thanks. A good tip.

 

In the last 13 mos. I've dumped 7100 bucks into my first gen with a recent injector change, rebuilt VE pump and new door hinges. It's a pretty tight truck now and better than a lot of them for sale out there. Ready for another 400000 miles. I hope.

On 2/2/2017 at 10:38 PM, JAG1 said:

new door hinges

 

Keep those door hinges lubed up with engine oil. They will last a very long time. 

 

On 2/2/2017 at 10:38 PM, JAG1 said:

recent injector change

 

Injectors are considered a wear item every 100-200k miles you should be considering replacing them. 

 

On 2/2/2017 at 10:38 PM, JAG1 said:

rebuilt VE pump

 

VE pump if you keep lube in the fuel it will go a long ways before needing replacement again. 

I've been looking to get a newer truck like a second gen to look a bit better in business as I currently have a first gen for my work. It issomewhat beat up but all that I look at are ready for the work that's been done to my truck.

Today I raced a lightly modified 2nd gen 24 valve off the line. With my limited slip I jumped ahead half a truck length and held it there all the way up to the speed limit. Why should I trade when my truck was full of tools?

A thought... depending on the use.  The 4th gen gas trucks are really reliable.   Some older work trucks are deals.  The hemi engine is very reliable. 

 

All told, if i ordered a new dodge tomorrow it would have the 6.4 hemi.

I would have to be careful with it... not fill up with diesel. Once you get used to a diesel its hard to give up and I think there's something a little bit special about the 12 valve trucks.

I worried about that after buying mine but the only time I almost put gas in it was at a station that the gas pump handle on the nozzle was green. Got a few of those around here where I am working. I dont know how bad diesel will foul up a gas engine these days. 

8 hours ago, dripley said:

I worried about that after buying mine but the only time I almost put gas in it was at a station that the gas pump handle on the nozzle was green. Got a few of those around here where I am working. I dont know how bad diesel will foul up a gas engine these days. 

Not a big deal. I've delt with diesel in gas motors alot at my dealership. Drain it out. Take it for a beat run. Good too go. They will try to tell u it needs everything tho.  Haha 

Diesel pump nozzle is usually larger in circumference than unleaded. At least that's the case here in the Southeast. 

Next time I am there I will measure. The big rig nozzles are much larger but not sure about the auto diesel pump nozzle.

Careful using the big truck pumps. Most of them have no more than a screen for filtering where the "pickup" pumps are filtered to around 30 microns. I used to work for a chain of fuel / gas stations. 

I have used both but mostly the auto diesel. I use the big rig lane dependent upon availability when I am towing the 5th wheel.

with my 1st gen high miler getting recent injectors and inj pump... learning on this forum about my 2nd gen too, I don't think I could ever go to a gas engine. I have been looking at other 2nd gen 12 valves but none are worthy or as tight like my 1st gen, so on I go restoring my old truck.

 

I have learned enough to tell most times when a mechanic or dealer is a not on the right path with things you hear from sales people.

 

 I don't think I could work around all the strange parts covering  a newer gas engine as I can my 12 or my 24.

 

 CSM, I know you mean well and your probably right... that they are cheap and yet reliable enough to warrant going back. Sometimes these diesels are expensive and make you think about a cheap gas truck but, then I remember the unbelievable number of sweet miles I got out of my 92 Dodge already.

 

Edited February 7, 20178 yr by JAG1

Another Question... just got a quote to do all the body work and new paint on this old truck. $1700 bucks is what they say for one all one color. I remove and replace molding and mirrors.

 

I think that's a good price, what say you?

that's a stupid good price assuming they take ANY pride in their work.  

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Another Question... just got a quote to do all the body work and new paint on this old truck. $1700 bucks is what they say for one all one color. I remove and replace molding and mirrors.

 

I think that's a good price, what say you?

VERY good price. The "price" on mine was 5K. Not what I paid, but that's what someone else would have. 

Have you seen their work? Does it stand the test of time? Something just seems off being that low. 

 Thanks, it is for the cab only since it has an aluminum flatbed with a head ache rack. I told then not to paint the rear of the cab just mask off a line and paint all else. I am to remove and replace mirrors and body side moldings.

Black?

  Mike, be carful who paints it.  Auto body/paint production shops like Macco and the like will put the cheapest paint on.  The paint will look good for about 6-12 months then fade and lose it's shine, compounding or waxing will not bring it back.  It all depends on the quality of paint and the experience/care of the painter.  I've seen good paint costing over $400/gl. 

   I've seen paint jobs where the parts sticker was still on the body panel and painted over.  That tells me the prep man didn't prep the car and either the painter was blind or didn't care.