Needing help on what I need to change rotors on my 2001 3500 2wd

Can you go into more detail?  Iam not sure if you are asking what parts need to be changed or what tools or if the brakes need to be changed.  

 

 

 

thanks

Just remove the calipers and caliper frames then remove the rotor.

I'm asking what tools and if I need to replace the nylon nut.

??? Why would you? Rotors just slide off the hub. Like I said just remove the caliper then caliper frame then slide the rotor off the hub.

Are late axle brakes held on by allen head bolts?

Mine just slide on and off. No other hardware to remove. It could be the parking brake shoea hooking the drum. You might have to loosen the parking brake starwheel turn it towards the axle to loosen.

Is 3500 different?

2500 and 3500 are the same.

(2001 3/4 ton, I have disk on mine)  Probably 99.999 people already now this, but just in case   I had probably 30-40% meat left, but my sliding bolt in right rear caliper kept getting stuck or dragging and was not letting the brake release all the way. So I changed the right rear only. 

After changing I looked at the mess of stuff near the master cylinder and thought surly this thing has a limiting valve or proportioning valve. Well mine does have a front and rear valves but no adjustment side to side, like good size trucks do. 

Left Seattle pulling 9,000 pound trailer.  Made it to LA but in stop and go traffic, lots of smoke and stink.  No problem over any pass between Seattle an LA.  (B&D exhaust brake) But stop and go traffic in LA was a big problem.  Wife kept looking out her mirror asking "are you sure nothing is wrong?"

 

My answer..."Don't worry honey, the smoke and stink is just Calif fuel and our truck is just not used to it.  Just look at the exhaust pipe, see all the blue smoke?"  

 

Made it passed downtown and bad areas and stopped little bit south of Buena Park. I let it sit for about 2 hours then onward very close to my kids trailer shop in Orange (near Disneyland).  Son hasn't let me forget what a bad mechanic I am.

 

My son ended up having to re-do my job. The "re-built" calipers came mud on them, but at least the mud was spray painted same color as caliper 

 

 

Like moparman said, remove the caliper, remove 2 bolts that hold retainer and rotor is ready to be pulled off.  As Me asked, I think the retainer bolts may be allen but sorry I don't remember.  I did all 4 last year including caliper.  Pretty easy.  Good luck

 

L8tr

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Mine are standard hex head metric bolts for both the caliper and the caliper frame.

On the 2001 3500 I think the rear hub bolts to the rotor 

When mounting the brake brackets, calipers and hardware the proper mounting bolt torque can be critical.  It is best if a torque wrench is used for this.

 

I got a 99 2500 with the old school setup. Hub and rotor held together by the wheel studs. Just replace the pads and rotors and speed sensors today. 

Nothing like a shiny new rotor, glad I dont have to beat mine apart like you do.

I used the old man buzzard trick. Haha. Used and extension and over size socket up against the hub bolt and knuckle. Started the truck turned the wheel. Pop right out. 

Once the hub and rotor assembly is out. I beat the wheel studs out with a brass hammer. 3 or 4 blows. Studs came right out. The hub and rotor come right apart. 

I used the power steering to pop my wheel bearings out. Wish I had known about it the first time I did it. Liked to never got them out the first time. Anti seize has kept that from happening again. Happy to hear it was not bad for you.

Has anyone ran the RAYBESTOS 76920FZN Rust Prevention Technology; Coated Rotor from RockAuto? Seems decent and price is about the same as others. They label it as OE quality so might be worth it?

I think for the price I would upgrade to newer stile brakes that are bigger 

If I had 17s I would. It'll more then likely be something I do in the future though.