When I left work today, truck worked fine.  I came to a stop after exiting the interstate and when I went to go the truck seemed real sluggish.  Everything felt fine once I was rolling, but moving from a dead stop the truck would smoke and slowly start rolling.  Once I got closer to home I realized I had no first gear, even if I put the selector in low, it still starts in 2nd.  The transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop back in August, has maybe 10k miles and supposed to be good for 650hp.  I'm not rough on my truck and haven't even towed with it yet.  It does have a 3 year 100k mile warranty so I'm not worried about getting it fixed.  I am curious if there is anything outside of the job they would warranty that could cause this issue.  I did a little research and saw a relay I can check, but stuff like the solenoids or bands would fall into the warranty category. 

Governor solenoid and transducer

Typically there are few error codes with this. If you shift to 1st gear it will start from 1st gear again. I had the same problem with my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 when the 46RE transmission started going south. Bad part was the transmission completely failed 2k miles after replacing the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. End up having @Dynamic rebuild mine with a few extra tweaks and now it a pretty aggressive transmission on that 5.9L V8 gasser. It tows good and drives like a sport truck now. So I highly suggest you talk to Dynamic and get some insight to what going on. 

Edited January 25, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

Take it BACK to the shop that built it before you do anything. It is likely the gov pressure sensor and transducer.

I called them this morning and got it scheduled.  I just wanted to make sure there was nothing outside the transmission that could cause the issue.  I'd hate to take it back just to find is was a simple relay in the fuse box or something else equally trivial. 

I took my truck in yesterday morning and of course it was working fine on the way there. This was the first time I had driven it since the issue happened.

They pulled 3 codes from the truck

P0500-No vehicle speed signal detected.

P1682-Charging system voltage to low.

P1763-Gov. pressure sensor voltage too high.

 

They cleaned the VSS and all connections there and on the transmission as one plug had some fluid in it.  They took the truck out, got it nice and warm but couldn't get anything to duplicate the issue. 

 

My speedometer never quit working, so that code confuses me.  The voltage code makes some sense though.  A couple weeks ago on my way home, the check gauges light came on and my volt gauge had dropped to 8.  My Edge display was still showing 14+ volts though.  When I got home I put the volt meter on the alternator and it was showing 14+ volts as well.  I turned the truck off and started it up and the gauge had started working again.  I plan on checking for AC voltage today, waiting for it to warm up a bit outside.  Should I consider replacing the alternator even if the AC noise checks out ok?

Edited February 1, 20187 yr by Sycostang67

If AC noise is low and DC voltage/amperage is good I would look elsewhere for the P1682 problem. 

The PCM comes to mind.  It controls the signal to the voltage gauge and transmission.   

I went and checked the AC noise, I think I have the wrong multi-meter though.  I don't think mine registers low enough as I think I had to borrow one last time, but this is what I got with mine. 

 

You need a meter that has a 2 volt AC scale or auto ranging.  200V scale is not sensitive enough for these low AC readings.

I went over to my sisters house to borrow her husbands multi-meter.  He has a fancy one that wouldn't work at all, gave the same -1 reading no matter what setting it was on.  He had a smaller one that was acting weird, but only showed .003-.005 at idle with nothing else on, turned on lights and heater, no change, tested at 2k rpm, got the same reading.  I'm going to buy myself a new multi-meter tomorrow just in case.  I should also mention that I had installed one of those noise isolators years ago when I thought I was having lockup issues and then forgotten about it.  I did remove it before testing and won't be putting it back on. 

  On 2/2/2018 at 3:16 AM, Sycostang67 said:

I'm going to buy myself a new multi-meter tomorrow just in case. 

Check the pawn shops first if you can.  I bought a used Fluke 77 for $75 at one.

  On 2/1/2018 at 5:10 PM, Sycostang67 said:

I took my truck in yesterday morning and of course it was working fine on the way there. This was the first time I had driven it since the issue happened.

They pulled 3 codes from the truck

P0500-No vehicle speed signal detected.

P1682-Charging system voltage to low.

P1763-Gov. pressure sensor voltage too high.

 

They cleaned the VSS and all connections there and on the transmission as one plug had some fluid in it.  They took the truck out, got it nice and warm but couldn't get anything to duplicate the issue. 

 

My speedometer never quit working, so that code confuses me.  The voltage code makes some sense though.  A couple weeks ago on my way home, the check gauges light came on and my volt gauge had dropped to 8.  My Edge display was still showing 14+ volts though.  When I got home I put the volt meter on the alternator and it was showing 14+ volts as well.  I turned the truck off and started it up and the gauge had started working again.  I plan on checking for AC voltage today, waiting for it to warm up a bit outside.  Should I consider replacing the alternator even if the AC noise checks out ok?

 

P0500 shows up if you spin the rear tires.

 

P1763 is your 2nd gear start issue.

I couldn't find a capable meter locally so I ordered one, should have it Monday. 

 

  On 2/2/2018 at 1:41 PM, jlbayes said:

P0500 shows up if you spin the rear tires.

 

Really, wow, it doesn't take much does it.  I've yet to do a burnout, best I've done is a little slippage trying to get across a busy street.  I guess slipping on ice/snow would count as well. 

Edited February 2, 20187 yr by Sycostang67

  On 2/2/2018 at 9:42 PM, Sycostang67 said:

Really, wow, it doesn't take much does it.

 

  On 2/2/2018 at 1:41 PM, jlbayes said:

P0500 shows up if you spin the rear tires.

 

That's because the front axle can be sitting still and the front two sensors show ZERO speed or very low speed and then the rear axle hops up to 60 MPH so the computers cannot understand how half a truck is sitting still or barely moving and the rear axle is 60 plus MPH. 

 

POOF! P0500 code tossed. 

Edited February 3, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

  On 2/3/2018 at 12:15 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

That's because the front axle can be sitting still and the front two sensors show ZERO speed or very low speed and then the rear axle hops up to 60 MPH so the computers cannot understand how half a truck is sitting still or barely moving and the rear axle is 60 plus MPH. 

 

POOF! P0500 code tossed. 

Is that the case if you only have 4wabs? I have set a few p500 codes my self with 4w bas. Just wondering about the trucks with 2w abs.

  On 2/3/2018 at 3:50 AM, dripley said:

Is that the case if you only have 4wabs? I have set a few p500 codes my self with 4w bas. Just wondering about the trucks with 2w abs.

 

My 24v has rwal. Constantly sets the code if I scan it.

So I have my new meter, and I can't get any reading, the numbers bounce around until I attach the leads to the truck and it zero's out and holds there.  Do I have this thing set right?

Looks right to me, but I'm not familiar with the true/avg. part. My meter isn't that fancy. You have it on avg. What happens when you put it on true?

On the true setting, it starts at zero and stays at zero after attaching leads.

 try setting it to 20 and see if anything changes highly doubted that you have zero vac, in my mind fluke is one of the best devices to test for such things. Sorry to say but you may be buying another meter. There is plenty of them on eBay used just look for 99 to 100 percent feedback.

I wouldn't worry too much about your alternator. Your transducer code is giving you the 2nd or 3rd gear starts.

 

If it's setting a 1763, I'd be curious to know: 1) how much line pressure this 650 hp transmission is running, and 2) what they did in the valve body to protect the transducer from that pressure, and what they did to prevent an overpressure code. The OEM plastic transducers won't put up with a tremendous amount of pressure before they fail.