I have an automatic trans so what is the best way to hold the engine from spinning while loosening bolts on the dampner?  Changing this weekend since the rubber is supposed to be even, flush to the steel. Mine is mushed out all around and wobbles when running.

 

 

I did something...but I dont remember what hahaha.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yea I used a socket to jam a flex plate bolt into the case.   There is that access hole on the passenger side.

Maybe a strap wrench around the balancer to  reak them loose then remove them. I dont remember mine being difficult to get out or in and torqued. 

 

You could probably break them loose with an impact gun.

Edited October 12, 20186 yr by dripley

Stick a socket on the bolts and smack the ratchet handle with your hand they are not torqued in that tight. Only 4 bolts holding the damper on. Not like the old days of taking the center bolt out of Chevy crank and then using a puller to get the damper of the crank. Nowhere near that. Just a couple of smack with your hand and the bolt will give in. 

Don’t use your hand for a hammer!! You’ll regret it when you get older 

42 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Don’t use your hand for a hammer!! You’ll regret it when you get older 

My hands get sore once in a while, don't get any ideas now.

You need to shock the bolts. You can't get an impact gun in there. Just pulling with pure torque most likely with just turn the crank.

45 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You need to shock the bolts. You can't get an impact gun in there. Just pulling with pure torque most likely with just turn the crank.

Shocking the bolts is a great way to do it.  I had to remove the dampener bolts when I installed the fuel boss.  I used a breaker bar and a 5lb mini sledge to smack it with.  It's best to maneuver (by turning the alternator nut backwards, to the left) the bolt you want to remove to the 12-2 o'clock position when looking at the dampener so that when you smack em it has less of a chance to turn the dampener.  They all broke loose pretty easily using this method.

 

To put them back on to torque spec (92 lbs) I put a breaker bar with socket and long cheater pipe over the alternator pulley nut to hold by itself and then slid under to torque them up.  The alternator will hold the belt just fine in that direction...it slips going the other direction.  

Thanks everyone I have a rubber mallet. It mostly for tenderizing chicken He he ....

 

Was real nice going to Cummins and getting the new dampner that says right on it 'made in the U.S.A.' That was  worth the trip even though it took 4 hrs downtown together with Cummins waiting around policy for parts.

 

Amazing how crowded and how people drive these days they so selfish they almost run into each other... never seen that before. 

 

 

Edited October 12, 20186 yr by JAG1

23 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Thanks everyone I have a rubber mallet. It mostly for tenderizing chicken He he ....

 

Was real nice going to Cummins and getting the new dampner that says right on it 'made in the U.S.A.' That was  worth the trip even though it took 4 hrs downtown together with Cummins waiting around policy for parts.

 

Amazing how crowded and how people drive these days they so selfish they almost run into each other... never seen that before. 

 

 

Did you bring mallet with you, might of needed it.  

I got it done. Truck runs teeny bit smoother. Had to put locking pliers using double thick leather for pad on the teeth of the flywheel so I could torque to 92 ft lbs.

 

Rubber was mushroomed out on both sides, but the balance marks still lined up. The 1/16th inch wobble is gone.

 

Thanks all.

 

015point9, can't understand.... people got nice cars and all the conveniences and act like their mad. 

A barring tool does a great job at holding the engine. Plan B would be remove the radiator and use an impact. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7471A-Engine-Barring-Cummins/dp/B00063YWUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539448448&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cummins+engine+barring+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=41ks2K-Nu7L&ref=plSrch