Developed a new issue. Usually my truck will start with half a revolution. It has started taking 4 sometimes more to start. What’s going on? No codes truck runs good. Good fuel pressure. 

2 hours ago, dave110 said:

All this talk about injector failure makes me hesitant to pull the trigger on a set. I certainly don't want to replace injectors every 20k miles.What brand injectors are we talking? I trust and like DAP but I realize it's a budget injector. Is it worth spending more money for a better injector like Infinite? Or is this a performance injector problem in general?

 

If you’re staying on the smaller size, I think you’d be surprised at how little a price difference it is between Infinite and others.

It is definitely worth spending more money for a quality injector; pays off in the long run, which is what Cummins are all about.

 

I will give Mark @ DieselTuff.com a shout out.

 

He has Genuine RV275s in stock (there's plenty out there who sell aftermarket RV275s) as well as higher HP units in whatever flavor you want.

 

Hand built & POP'd to your specific application, unlike the middlemen resellers who I don't care to name for the sake of civility; turnaround with Mark is barely a couple days before he builds & ships.

 

And yep, Weston is great at what he does as well 

Edited December 9, 20186 yr by ofelas
sp mistakes

So.... I'm kinda thinking here... why are we having problems with injectors loosing pop with 20-30k on them? And originals go for 100k +. Could it be similar to front coil spacers, you put a spacer in for a heavier bumper or a plow, or just for looks, but it doesn't really support much more weight. Or you buy plow springs or springs that are longer to eliminate the spacer. Same with injector, I doubt springs get changed, more than likely just reshimmed. 

1 minute ago, Dieselfuture said:

So.... I'm kinda thinking here... why are we having problems with injectors loosing pop with 20-30k on them? And originals go for 100k +. Could it be similar to front coil spacers, you put a spacer in for a heavier bumper or a plow, or just for looks, but it doesn't really support much more weight. Or you buy plow springs or springs that are longer to eliminate the spacer. Same with injector, I doubt springs get changed, more than likely just reshimmed. 

‘‘Tis very interesting. I plan to go stock with my next set which is hopefully soon. Genuine Bosch injectors. Nothing against DAP but I don’t like the way my 75s run. It could be another issue such as air in fuel but we will see. I still am going stock either way becuase the OE injectors obviously last longer and won’t have lag and smoke for those that don’t have tuning. 

13 hours ago, ofelas said:

It is definitely worth spending more money for a quality injector; pays off in the long run, which is what Cummins are all about.

 

I will give Mark @ DieselTuff.com a shout out.

 

He has Genuine RV275s in stock (there's plenty out there who sell aftermarket RV275s) as well as higher HP units in whatever flavor you want.

 

Hand built & POP'd to your specific application, unlike the middlemen resellers who I don't care to name for the sake of civility; turnaround with Mark is barely a couple days before he builds & ships.

 

And yep, Weston is great at what he does as well 

Does he sell oe stock hp injectors? 

His site is performance oriented, but give him a holler (sales@dieseltuff.com) & ask him, he seems to always have stuff that's not on the web site.

 

Ask him about spray angles/piston bowls & POP pressures for your application/intended use.

 

Having said that, the RV275s are a Bosch injector off the slightly higher HP motorhomes, I feel they're the best stock type injectors available for the 98.5-2002 24v.

 

 

Edited December 10, 20186 yr by ofelas

If you looking for flow amount most like the lower pop pressures. Now if you are looking for economy you need higher pop pressures.

 

Low pop pressure will flow more fuel over time but the droplets are larger and tend to create more black smoke. Now high pop pressures create better atomization but does reduce the flow amount over time. Not to mention high pop pressure means slightly retarded timing as well.

I may go with a set of RV275S that is a possibility. 

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I may go with a set of RV275S that is a possibility. 

That's as close to stock as you can get.   Make sure they are the Bosch RV275 and not some cheap knock off junk.  I bought mine from DAP last spring.

10 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

And originals go for 100k +.

240k+ on my oe ones. Never lost any milage or performance that I noticed.

1 minute ago, dripley said:

240k+ on my oe ones. Never lost any milage or performance that I noticed.

Cant decide if i should have my oe injectors repopped or buy brand new rvs

8 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I may go with a set of RV275S that is a possibility. 

Go with the RV's. You will be sorry to go any lower.

Should I get RV275 nozzles on my old OEM bodies or brand new OE Bosch? 

Go with genuine Bosch RV275s

So someone asked here if my WTS was coming on. It comes on with the key but today and Sunday it came on with the key and went off and the truck started hard like it was below zero each time like the grid heaters didn’t run? It was 34 degrees today when it didn’t come on. Isn’t that temp plenty low enough for the grids to cycle? Sunday it was about 35 but had been 28 prior to me starting the truck. 

That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

4 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So someone asked here if my WTS was coming on. It comes on with the key but today and Sunday it came on with the key and went off and the truck started hard like it was below zero each time like the grid heaters didn’t run? It was 34 degrees today when it didn’t come on. Isn’t that temp plenty low enough for the grids to cycle? Sunday it was about 35 but had been 28 prior to me starting the truck. 

 

Do you have a live date tool? You should compare your ECT and IAT sensors. If you didn't plug your truck in they should read the same temperature at ambiant temperature. And usually they should be within a few degrees of the outside temp if it's early in the morning.

7 hours ago, dave110 said:

That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

I can’t really remember but that’s a possibility? I did disconnect both batteries. 

3 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

Do you have a live date tool? You should compare your ECT and IAT sensors. If you didn't plug your truck in they should read the same temperature at ambiant temperature. And usually they should be within a few degrees of the outside temp if it's early in the morning.

Should this be done with the truck idling? 

 

 

I always let all all the lights go off and the chime stop before I fire the truck. 

7 hours ago, dave110 said:

That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

When he WTS comes on and stays on the truck starts perfect. It’s when it comes on with key and goes right off that it starts hard and runs like it’s very cold. Like I said this is intermittent. 

Just started the truck it’s 40F and the WTS came on with key and went off and the truck started hard. Also puffed some blue smoke. Something isn’t telling the grid heaters to turn on or what? But even at 40 it should fire right up with jongrids I would think. 

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Should this be done with the truck idling?

No. Just turn the switch on without starting. The IAT and ECT should be the same or within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Once started they drift away from each other fairly quick.

 

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Just started the truck it’s 40F and the WTS came on with key and went off and the truck started hard. Also puffed some blue smoke. Something isn’t telling the grid heaters to turn on or what? But even at 40 it should fire right up with jongrids I would think. 

It should just fire off at 40*. Mine does with the grids disconnected. My WTS comes on at key on but turns off right away. I probably should hook mine back up and see if they still work. When its 20 to 25 outside it still fires off pretty quick but it is a bit angry without the warm air.

Make sure all connectors & grounds are clean & tight. 

 

Test for continuity in the wiring.

 

From a 2001, should be similar to a 2000.

 

9 minutes ago, dripley said:

No. Just turn the switch on without starting. The IAT and ECT should be the same or within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Once started they drift away from each other fairly quick.

 

It should just fire off at 40*. Mine does with the grids disconnected. My WTS comes on at key on but turns off right away. I probably should hook mine back up and see if they still work. When its 20 to 25 outside it still fires off pretty quick but it is a bit angry without the warm air.

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159.