Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks. 

The 140 amp fuse is in a slot that can handle the heat. We need to find a holder that can handle it any idea's.

The protection is mostly if the diodes shorts to ground there is something to pop. The alternator will never reach 140 Amp output or above.

I just don't want to melt the holder

Blue Sea systems fuse holder can handle it. Also O ringed weather tight cover and silver coated.

On 2/24/2019 at 9:51 PM, IBMobile said:

The two are not on together and there is about a 3 sec. delay between switching grid heaters so only about a 90 amp added load. 

So both grid heaters never on at the same time even if it's really cold out. I fought dependent on temperature is how they operated. The reason I'm asking is I have both of my grid heaters on the momentary switch and wondering if there is any damage can be done with both being on at the same time. I believe that's how @Tractorman had his truck wired since new.

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

So both grid heaters never on at the same time even if it's really cold out. I fought dependent on temperature is how they operated. The reason I'm asking is I have both of my grid heaters on the momentary switch and wondering if there is any damage can be done with both being on at the same time. I believe that's how @Tractorman had his truck wired since new.

I have been wanting to add a switch to mine. My thought has always been a switch that turns the power on or off just like disconnecting the leads from battery as mine are now. It is my undeducated opinion that this would still allow the grids to be operated by the ECM. 

Edited February 26, 20196 yr by dripley

On 2/1/2019 at 11:35 AM, Dieselfuture said:

I pretty much reused everything aside from few ring terminals and you'll need a metric (6mm or 5mm) bolt to go in the case under vp for your bundle of grounds. I just ran mine to the driver side battery. I cut corners lol. 

 

Also creating more voltage drop and less noise shielding. The One thing @W-T and I agree upon is grounds should be as short as possible not to the battery per se but to body ground metal. Not everything must go to the battery directly. Battery post would look rather hairy if EVERYTHING ran to the battery post. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Battery post would look rather hairy if EVERYTHING ran to the battery post. 

They do 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

It is my undeducated opinion that this would still allow the grids to be operated by the ECM

Why would you want ecm controlling grids at all  

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

Why would you want ecm controlling grids at all  

The switch I envision would be to just cut power to the grids, like I have the wire disconnected from the battery. Then just turn them on when its cold outside and let the ECM control them. Then when I feel I don't  need them any more just turn them off. Down here I dont really need them but for first startup, unless it is u usually cold.

8 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

The reason I'm asking is I have both of my grid heaters on the momentary switch and wondering if there is any damage can be done with both being on at the same time. I believe that's how @Tractorman had his truck wired since new.

 

I have been manually operating my grid heaters with a momentary switch that switches both on at the same time since December of 2001, and for 307,000 miles.  If there were to be any negative side effects, I think they would have surfaced by now.  I like the fact that I am still using my original Bosch alternator with only one brush and bearing set replacement and that replacement was done as a maintenance procedure at 216,000 miles - not as a failure.  So, @Dieselfuture, I would not be concerned.

 

Curiosity finally got the best of me, so I did an experiment today.  I wired my grid heaters back to factory (I know - sounds crazy).  I used two test lights simultaneously at each grid heater positive terminal (heavy wire connection at the grid heater). I performed the following tests with ambient temperature in the shop at 50 degrees:

 

  1.  Key switch on, Wait to Start light on.  The test lights did not light.  I then realized that I am using the IAT Fooler, so that made sense.  I am certain that both test lights would have lit had the IAT circuit been returned to OEM wiring since that is how they worked before I added my momentary switch modification.  This isn't the part that I was curious about, anyway.

 

  2.  Start engine after Wait to Start light goes out.  Both test lights lit and stayed lit for about 15 seconds.  One light dropped out and the other light dropped out about 5 seconds later.  After a few seconds one test light turned on for about 5 seconds and then turned off.  Another 5 or ten second passed and the other test light turned for about 5 seconds and then turned off.  This cycle kept repeating itself.

 

Of course, because I am not crazy, I put my momentary switch back into operation.  Also, just for curiosity, I have checked a 2003 truck and a 2006 truck - they both use one relay to operate both grid heaters simultaneously.  They cannot be operated independently.   I thought that was interesting. 

 

- John

Edited February 26, 20196 yr by Tractorman

Thanks for the post above @Tractorman 

3 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

I have been manually operating my grid heaters with a momentary switch that switches both on at the same time since December of 2001, and for 307,000 miles. 

I can't quite say the same as you but mine have been switched for about a year and a half now. Either both on or both off. I turn them on to pre-heat and turn them off as soon as truck is running. I don't even bother using them if it'ts above mid 40's out. Best thing you can do to save your alternator.

3 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

 

  2.  Start engine after Wait to Start light goes out.  Both test lights lit and stayed lit for about 15 seconds.  One light dropped out and the other light dropped out about 5 seconds later.  After a few seconds one test light turned on for about 5 seconds and then turned off.  Another 5 or ten second passed and the other test light turned for about 5 seconds and then turned off.  This cycle kept repeating itself.

 

 

 

- John

Thanks. This confirms my suspicion. Both operate for pre-heat and initial start and  only one continues to cycle for post run heat. I've often noticed the amp draw is not as great once the truck is running for a few seconds.

What do you all think about the ground wire that is near the rear of driver side that's for the L/P? Has anyone thought of making it a little longer and put it to the W/T wire mod to the block?

57 minutes ago, Mad Bomber said:

What do you all think about the ground wire that is near the rear of driver side that's for the L/P? Has anyone thought of making it a little longer and put it to the W/T wire mod to the block?

If you are talking about the one by the starter?  I think those are the grounds for the Gauge Sensors, MAP, air temp, and Oil pressure, on my 2001.

 

Michael

Actually, the ground behind the starter is the fuel heater, and CANBus and lift pump ground. I wouldn't suggest moving any electric motor ground to a computer ground. G107 at the bottom.

 

I have been thinking about this since I did the mod and added extra 2/0 wires to connect the batteries.  should I still rotate the batteries seeing as how they are connected very well and the charge wire now goes to the pass side battery?  Just a thought.  I'm sure it would hurt to continue doing so.

 

L8tr

D

Where is this ground attached to? Is it to where the OEM L/P was mounted. When I had to remove the engine I missed where it was.

Where is this ground attached to? Is it to where the OEM L/P was mounted. When I had to remove the engine I missed where it was.

1 hour ago, SilverMoose said:

I have been thinking about this since I did the mod and added extra 2/0 wires to connect the batteries.  should I still rotate the batteries seeing as how they are connected very well and the charge wire now goes to the pass side battery?  Just a thought.  I'm sure it would hurt to continue doing so.

 

L8tr

D

 

Extra ground isn't needed. You already have the monster cables from the passenger side and the driver side. 

I found it and EVERYTHING WORKS NOW. I did have dead pedal and no charging. After the W/T mod and checking though the wire harness I found a nick in a wire going to my PCM. I did also replace my diode pack. After about 2.5 months it runs like a top now.

Edited March 18, 20196 yr by Mad Bomber

I did get the diode for your type of alternator...