I finally got started on this in earnest today. Did a little on it Monday pm. Then today after the morning mist died away and I got the doctors appointment out of the way the fun began. Itwent pretty well. Not one ceased bolt. They all came out nicely. Made this far today.

My helper.

The offending leak. The oil is from some bad pouring out of the gallon jug.

 

Now a couple questions.

 

Those metal strips between the pairs bolts at the front and rear of the exhaust manifold, are they necessary to reinstall? I thought they were under the bolt heads until I destroyed them all and realized they were over the bolts. They appear to keep the bolts from backing off? I will have to find some if necessary.

 

The exhaust manifold gaskets have raised area on one side, does this raised portion go to the block or the manifold?

.

This arrived yesterday.

Hope to have the head off and to the machine shop tomorrow. More to come.

Cool!

On ‎4‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 5:49 AM, dripley said:

x

 

I don't know you that well, so I would never treat you like others do.  When you are done, are you going to put the roof back on the chicken house?

 

- John

1 hour ago, Tractorman said:

 

I don't know you that well, so I would never treat you like others do.  When you are done, are you going to put the roof back on the chicken house?

 

- John

Come on in. The chickenator has a sense humor. Chickens are getting wet too.

3 hours ago, JAG1 said:

...... I think it's because 'Mopie Man' has given up after so many rebel members taken over his site. So beside himself he has resorted to riding a bicycle.

Next thing you know @Mopar1973Man will get himself some wood and a screamin beaver.

38 minutes ago, dripley said:

Next thing you know @Mopar1973Man will get himself some wood and a screamin beaver.

 

Actually, I'm packing the RV as we speak and bailing out for south to Parma to @Smarty Support place. Why? The snowpack and heavy rainfall have brought the rivers and creeks up big time. I've got to think more about MoparMom getting to her dialysis treatments. 

 

 

3 hours ago, JAG1 said:

...... I think it's because 'Mopie Man' has given up after so many rebel members taken over his site. So beside himself he has resorted to riding a bicycle.

 

No. I'm staying semi-idle for now while I heal and handle things a bit slower for now. Once I'm healed up and riding 20 miles on the bicycle again I'll be ready for all you crazy Cummins Nuts by then. I'm going to pack my laptop and try to get work done while I'm hiding in Parma for the next week. 

 

@JAG1 you bring yourself up here and you bring your bicycle and we'll see who can make it up the Big Salmon River or not... I'm game how about you? 

 

 

PS: That turned out awesome using my cellphone cradle to hold my cellphone while it records video. 

Edited April 8, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

Struggled a bit on the test drive. Didn't get to the main road before I could tell that one of clamps on the intake horn was loose. Still ran good just made a strange noise.

 

Go back and tighten it up and head to the main road. All is well. Turn down the main and a miss slowly comes on. Turn around and head back and it gets worse. It was a  strange miss not like a dead cylinder. I get back and open the hood and its a miss I have never heard. Very erractic. I have raw fuel and a slight hint of blue smoke. Also have 2 injector lines weeping a little but never had a miss from a leak that small. Got to dig a little deeper.

 

I pulled the valve cover and low and behold the intake bridge on #6 has fallen off the valves. I can see the push rod is way up above jam nut. Not sure what to the think, I know the mechanic says he tighten them. So I reinstalled it and I see what happened. There is only a small arc open in the rocker to turn the wrench. I caught myself again thinking it was tight only to realize that the wrench was hitting the rocker after it starting snugging up. Had to reset the wrench to really get it tight. Double checked all of them just to be sure. Fire the truck up and its running fine.

 

Took another test drive and all is well. I don't  figure I have hurt anything but I out my realm on that one. What say ya'll? 

 

 

11 minutes ago, dripley said:

Took another test drive and all is well. I don't  figure I have hurt anything but I out my realm on that one. What say ya'll? 

 

It doesn't sound like the intake valves were held open - that's good.  Were you able to rotate the afflicted pushrod to see if it is still straight?  If the pushrod is straight I think you are good to go.

 

The raw fuel symptom makes sense - no fresh air entering the combustion chamber.

 

- John

Edited April 8, 20196 yr by Tractorman
can't spell

@dripley it'll be fine just fine.  I had an intake rocker pull the threads out of the head, and it was knocking and smoking like a Power Stroke.  Put a longer bolt in the head, and it's been good to go ever since.

I did not check the push rod. I am going to re do the valves soon since I set #6 intake on a warm engine and not cold like all the rest. Set it to .008 warm versus .010 on the cold. 

7 minutes ago, trreed said:

@dripley it'll be fine just fine.  I had an intake rocker pull the threads out of the head, and it was knocking and smoking like a Power Stroke.  Put a longer bolt in the head, and it's been good to go ever since.

Manton guys were nice enough to give me a free set of longer ARP bolts for rocker assemblies when I purchased trunnions from them

1 minute ago, dripley said:

I did not check the push rod.

 

The pushrod absolutely needs to be straight, as it rotates constantly while in operation to ensure uniform wear on its mating surfaces on both ends.

 

- John

I might add that the 6.7 rocker assemblies fit just fine. Upon closer examination the shafts not only have the extra oil groove cut in them but also a hole drilled on angle from the top to feed it. I went a Kenworth place before  buy the assemblies on ebay and the updated shafts are o ly 12 bucks apiece. @Dieselfuture, I realize that these are NOT the same hardened ones you got from Manton. 

5 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

 

The pushrod absolutely needs to be straight, as it rotates constantly while in operation to ensure uniform wear on its mating surfaces on both ends.

 

- John

I realize that and will check it soon. For today I am done with #6. If its bent I have spare push rod and adjusters. Lets hope it is not.

Edited April 8, 20196 yr by dripley

11 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Manton guys were nice enough to give me a free set of longer ARP bolts for rocker assemblies when I purchased trunnions from them

I used good ol' Fastenal cause they were the only place I could find 12.9 grade bolts locally.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I realize that and will check it soon

 

I figured you did know that, just thought it worth a mention.  I am glad that the miss was something simple - you probably had all sorts of things going through your head on that test drive, and none of them good. 

 

When I was in my late twenties, I owned a mobile auto repair business for a few years and many times I found myself working in less than desirable weather conditions; so I hope you are feeling good about what you have accomplished working in the elements under the canopy.

 

- John

 

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

@JAG1 you bring yourself up here and you bring your bicycle and we'll see who can make it up the Big Salmon River or not... I'm game how about you.

I'm game.....been wanting to visit you all for a long time. Should be nice out there this year with all the rain I'm hoping.

 

4 hours ago, dripley said:

I went a Kenworth place before  buy the assemblies on ebay and the updated shafts are o ly 12 bucks apiece. @Dieselfuture, I realize that these are NOT the same hardened ones you got from Manton. 

Dripley that is good to know that it worked for you and new updated trunions are only $12 even though they're not hardened I'm sure they are better then original and will last you long time.

 

4 hours ago, trreed said:

I used good ol' Fastenal cause they were the only place I could find 12.9 grade bolts locally.

I'm a sucker when it comes to spending money on my truck, I have so many things on the list I want to buy yet 

4 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

I figured you did know that, just thought it worth a mention.  I am glad that the miss was something simple - you probably had all sorts of things going through your head on that test drive, and none of them good. 

 

When I was in my late twenties, I owned a mobile auto repair business for a few years and many times I found myself working in less than desirable weather conditions; so I hope you are feeling good about what you have accomplished working in the elements under the canopy.

 

- John

 

My thoughts riding back were a loose injector line. Then I noticed how weird it sounded. Thats when the mind started wondering. What did you do wrong?

 

Bolt off and on stuff does not bother me, but this by far is my largest gravel drive way job. A lot more detail in this undertaking. Dodging the weather sucks but knowing I did it myself is satisfying at the least. 

 

Now having a resourse such as this place makes the job much easier. So thanks to every one for the support..

53 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'm a sucker when it comes to spending money on my truck, I have so many things on the list I want to buy yet 

I have some slightly used rocker assemblies I will let go of cheap.

Edited April 9, 20196 yr by dripley

Everything has been fine since the the valve bridge was fixed. Went on 275 mile trip up the mountain to Ashville NC. Found a coolant leak where the heater return pipe goes into the block. Think the 17.5 year old 2.5" long heater hose finally gave out. Gave the coolant system a really good flush and refill along with a fresh oil change. All is running hot straight and normal.

 

I hope I thanked everyone for their input. I value all the help greatly.

 

So a big thanks to all of you.

Edited April 11, 20196 yr by dripley

Just to be safe check your valve lash soon. You're using used set and your pushrods, things will wear in a little and settle down. My new ones did. 

30 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Just to be safe check your valve lash soon. You're using used set and your pushrods, things will wear in a little and settle down. My new ones did. 

Figured I would next weekend. I will . have about 1000 miles on it.

 

 I never saw any mention of re torquing the head bolts like you do the studs. I have to take it that it is not necessary.

Edited April 12, 20196 yr by dripley