So I've been doing research lately, and had a sneaking suspicion that I had a leak somewhere after my injection pump. After looking hard, sure enough #5 fuel line was slightly wet. I said screw it and ordered an injection seal kit from thoroughbred (I think), and while I was at it I broke all the injectors down, soaked them in naptha, cleaned them more with b12 chemtool, then reassembled according to spec. 

With the new washers on, I've popped all them in by hand, set the crossover tubes in by hand, and now I'm about to torque the injector hold down clamps. The injectors are sitting higher than normal, is that normal? I figure the new copper washers haven't been seated yet, so they're up a bit higher, but is it OK to crank down those tiny 8mm bolts to seat them? 

Edited April 6, 20196 yr by Ravewolf

Lol.

Yeah. It can be a ***** to get the furthest one. Maybe crack all but it.

I'll start with 3 and be shocked if it goes to four. But you nevef know.

Yeah 3 will probly work.

2 hours ago, Evan said:

Yeah 3 will probly work.

How about four? I cracked 1,3,4,&5. 1 was spraying pretty good. The rest were just kinda dribbling out. 

I really hope I didn't mess anything up. I forgot to mention I didn't label the crossover tubes, then found out after the fact I was supposed to. Could that be the problem? 

Keep priming. As you good fuel to one injector close it. Then keep priming until you get fuel to anther one  and so on. If you have good fuel to 3 of them it should fire off. It is going to sound like crap until all the air is out of it. Just let it run until it smooths out. 

 

Dont get discouraged, most times re priming is fairly quick but occasionally mine will be stubborn. You just have stay with it.

 

Not sure on the crossover tubes for your year.  They are a bit diiferent mine from what I hear. Mine went into whatever hole they went in. Since you instslled new injectors I cant see what difference it makes.

Edited April 8, 20196 yr by dripley

Once the line is flowing it best to cap it off instantly and then keep pumping on the other lines till they flow then tighten them up. I've only once had to use ether / starting fluid on my truck because it just didn't want to crank prime. Just make sure to disconnect the grid heater power from the battery. 

Mine wouldn't go without a helper he cranked I cracked and closed as I got fuel even after that it took a bit of cranking to fire off and it ran like crap for about a minute now runs like a top as others said don't get discouraged the pay off is worth the frustration. 

Fully charged batteries, good clean battery cables, and a strong starter make the difference between struggling to start and priming and starting fairly easy.

LOL,

 

Mike said what I was going to suggest.  Charge the batteries!!!!!   Most of my starting problems (on the rattle monster and my tractors) stem from turning over too slowly to begin with.....  For diesel to begin its burn, since we don't have spark plugs, the ignition energy comes from the temperature rise of compression.  There is less heat available in a slowly moving piston to start the burn than a fast moving one.   Cranking speed DOES make a difference.

 

HTH

 

Hag

1 minute ago, Haggar said:

Cranking speed DOES make a difference.

 

 

Sure does in the fact of compression for ignition heat and also the ability to pump up pop pressure in the injection pump fast enough with possible worn injectors which might be bleeding out faster than popping. This why you need to close off the lines that seem to be pumping with a good flow so you can possibly make the injector pop off. 

Update: it lives! 

But....i notices by the number 4 injector, the diesel that pooled around the nut is bubbling. Looks like it's coming from the intake cover. Will this cause it to run like crap? It's still stuttering when I rev it. Seems to rev quicker though. 

Also, I forgot to mention these were the injectors that came with the truck, not new ones. So not putting the crossover tubes back in the same holes is ok still? Or? 

 

UPDATE 2.

Truck runs like crap, seems to miss at idle,pops/misses during free rev, belches a ton of gray/white smoke when revved, and when I let off, shudders and coughs, and comes back through the turbo. Also, when I shut it off, refuses to start again. Almost like it lost prime? 

Wtf did I do?? She ran decent before, much better than this....

Edited April 10, 20196 yr by Ravewolf
More crap going wrong. Really had it with this trucks crap....

How did you set the pop pressure for the injectors?

 

Good rule of thumb, when it was running good before go back and check what you did. 

18 minutes ago, dripley said:

How did you set the pop pressure for the injectors?

 

Good rule of thumb, when it was running good before go back and check what you did. 

I didn't, I just took them apart one by one, cleaned them, then reassembled them one by one. I kept everything together, and in separate compartments. I took care to label everything, and organized the parts by injector. Kept track of how everything came apart, and when I put them back together, I torqued the caps to DDP specs (55lbs). 

I guess tomorrow I'll pull it back apart again, and recheck everything. I have to anyway since I'm replacing the plenum gasket. Might be why my truck never built that much boost. 

Cleaning injectors really doesn't do a whole lot, unless you're burning transmission fluid for fuel. You really need to know what the pop pressure is set on them, you didn't lose any of the tiny little shims behind the Springs did you. I fought 32ft-lbs was the torque, maybe some injectors are different. 

I have never taken an injector apart to know the ins and outs of it. I guess the work could have upset the pop pressure enough for miss fires and your issue. Is there a diesel shop near by that could test them?

Edited April 10, 20196 yr by dripley

On 4/10/2019 at 5:29 AM, Dieselfuture said:

Cleaning injectors really doesn't do a whole lot, unless you're burning transmission fluid for fuel. You really need to know what the pop pressure is set on them, you didn't lose any of the tiny little shims behind the Springs did you. I fought 32ft-lbs was the torque, maybe some injectors are different. 

I made sure nothing like that came out with the first injector. I was extremely careful about it. I don't think it's the injectors. I also pulled the torque number from online, several sources said 55 ft lbs. But upon further research, ddp says 30. So back apart it comes. 

 

On 4/10/2019 at 5:44 AM, dripley said:

I have never taken an injector apart to know the ins and outs of it. I guess the work could have upset the pop pressure enough for miss fires and your issue. Is there a diesel shop near by that could test them?

Where I live we're lucky to have internet. Morons abound here. I seriously doubt that I messed up the pop pressure because everything was meticulously bagged and tagged besides the crossover tubes. 

Speaking of which, I took them out today (was sick for three days then it decided to snow for two days), and noticed all of them were wet past the orings. I did find a kit with green orings, and found a set that was just like the ones I removed. The crossover tubes clicked in nicely, so I think that was a big part of the problem. Also, the intake plenum gasket was completely toast, it's no wonder I never could build boost, half of it was going to the atmosphere! 

I didn't get it started today, as I ran out of daylight. But Dieselfuture pointed out my torque values were wrong on the nozzles, and they're way too tight. I'm going to yank them tomorrow and tear them down again. Hopefully I didnt screw anything up.... 

Me and my damn bright ideas. 

 

Edited April 15, 20196 yr by Ravewolf

I don't intend to sound rude or stir the pot, but at a price of little over 400 bucks for new injectors and having such a great truck I would not mess with used, I would go get them new from Bosch thru Dap or any VP rebuilder that has the right price for them.

On 4/9/2019 at 3:34 PM, Ravewolf said:

It's still stuttering when I rev it. Seems to rev quicker though.

 

First of Quadzilla tuner cannot be free revved. It doesn't have the timing tables for free revving. 

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

I don't intend to sound rude or stir the pot, but at a price of little over 400 bucks for new injectors and having such a great truck I would not mess with used, I would go get them new from Bosch thru Dap or any VP rebuilder that has the right price for them.

They aren't used, they came with the truck 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

First off Quadzilla tuner cannot be free revved. It doesn't have the timing tables for free revving. 

I remember that. What I meant was it seemed like it was "loading up" and choking on excess fuel. But I understand what you mean. 

Timing is too retarded for few revving typically. Even my truck will do the same thing this is totally normal.