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Has anybody used or heard of Black Market Performances head studs? They’re about $150 less and a ARP set and the same tensile strength. Was curious if anybody had used them  

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  • I looked at a few other brands of studs that were cheaper than ARP's...can't remember the names of them.  But when I researched them myself I found several complaints of snapping while being torqued. 

  • Headstuds are kinda like insurance against a blown head gasket if you're gonna run higher boost pressures.  Headstuds are needed when running boost pressures of 45-50 lbs or more.  The stock headbolts

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Also used for longevity. Like in my case I don't want to do head gaskets every 300k miles. The tinsel strength of the ARP 425 should keep the head from curling on the end over time. Where normal head

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I have not, but I am definitely curious. I have ARP, and they weren't cheap. I'm not a big fan of paying big money for a big name. I know there's R&D involved, but still. Gouging is gouging. I look forward to hearing more about a competitor. Competition helps keep companies honest.

Very interesting. Looks like they are geared more towards the 4th gen crowd. Some real world feedback on those studs would be nice.

Some of the stuff on their website makes me think they don't do a lot of product research before selling, such as the cat filters... but the studs do seem like a good deal for the tensile strength. 

I looked at a few other brands of studs that were cheaper than ARP's...can't remember the names of them.  But when I researched them myself I found several complaints of snapping while being torqued.  I figured the little bit of savings wasn't worth any potential issues so I just went with the ARP 425's.  Never an issue at 135 ft.lbs and up 55-60 lbs of boost. 

PO put A1s in my truck and they seem to be doing well, tensile is supposed to be higher than arp 425 just not sure why they  quit making them 

Are head studs an upgrade when running extra power or a safegaurd for a known problem or ???

24 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Are head studs an upgrade when running extra power or a safegaurd for a known problem or ???

Headstuds are kinda like insurance against a blown head gasket if you're gonna run higher boost pressures.  Headstuds are needed when running boost pressures of 45-50 lbs or more.  The stock headbolts are fine for stock boost levels and even slightly higher than stock but they will not clamp hard enough to hold the head down at higher boost pressures put out by a larger single or compound turbo setup.  I have heard of people who have overtorqued the stock headbolts and ran up to 50lbs successfully...but that's a big roll of the dice.  Changing out a head gasket is a costly, time consuming and laborious job.  @dripleyknows all about the fun of head gasket replacement. 

  • Owner
7 hours ago, 015point9 said:

Are head studs an upgrade when running extra power or a safegaurd for a known problem or ???

 

Also used for longevity. Like in my case I don't want to do head gaskets every 300k miles. The tinsel strength of the ARP 425 should keep the head from curling on the end over time. Where normal head bolt will give up and start to stretch allowing the head to curl. Stock head bolts are known for the curl problem. 

 

Then like @Bullet mentions that the clamping force to allow for more boost pressure is bonus. I done the math long ago but 30 PSI of boost and just the crank spinning without fuel being injected you reaching 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Yes you need to keep the clamping force on for the head when you adding lots of timing and fuel. 

 

6 hours ago, Bullet said:

I have heard of people who have overtorqued the stock headbolts and ran up to 50lbs successfully...

 

I was doing 47 PSI of boost on the stock gasket. I was lucky and not blown the compression part but the head curled and started leaking coolant out the rear passenger side of the head. My case is more about heat cycles and bolts getting weak.

 

6 hours ago, Bullet said:

Changing out a head gasket is a costly, time consuming and laborious job.

 

Cost me $2,000 with the valve guides, seals, machine work, gasket kit, and the ARP 425 stud. 

 

What upgrades are recomended when doing a gasket. Studs plus what. Aside from guides and seals. 

Can we port match the manifold or do any porting maybe open up the exhaust side to breath better or is that a no no without a flow bench and proper tools to ensure each exhaust ports the same size coming out of the head. 

Dammit now I'm going to research porting. I'm at 295k heads never been off 

If you're thinking about adding power, I would be looking at better valve train. Springs, pushrods, new and improved trunnions. Depends on your boost levels maybe fire ringing in the head. Personally I would pay a little extra to machine for newer style Top Hat valve seals.

  • Owner
2 hours ago, dripley said:

All depends on what you want to do with power. 

 

Exactly...

 

Majority of us are just daily drivers here. None of that will amount to anything being you don't run WOT all the time. Like myself, my average engine load is 17 to 19% and about 2-3 PSI of boost at 65 MPH. Flow is super low so there is nothing to gain by porting the head.

 

Now if your 1/4 mile racing, dyno queen or tractor pulls then your going to see some gains by porting and such where you run WOT nearly 100% of the time. Just upgrading 3-inch exhaust to 4-inch exhaust on my Cummins gained me ZERO. No change in MPG, no change in EGT's, no change in power. Just like intakes don't gain anything for daily drivers because the flow is too low. 

 

Now as for injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar), turbo (HX35/40 hybrid 60/60/12), and Quadzilla now that had produced serious power gain. EGT very controlled. MPG at 20.64 at the last tank. Can tear the tires loose on command. Awesome sprint truck. Drop the hammer its passing 85 MPH in the length of a semi-truck from 45 MPH. There is more to it being I've got a correct final gear ratio to the ground at 3.69:1 where most are on oversized tires and below 3.55 heading towards 3.00:1 which add massive amounts of load on the engine and heat.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

10 hours ago, Evan said:

What upgrades are recomended when doing a gasket. Studs plus what. Aside from guides and seals. 

Can we port match the manifold or do any porting maybe open up the exhaust side to breath better or is that a no no without a flow bench and proper tools to ensure each exhaust ports the same size coming out of the head. 

Dammit now I'm going to research porting. I'm at 295k heads never been off 

 

What are your goals?

Mostly I've met my power goals. 

I'm at 295k and heads never been off. Even if gains are minimal to nothing I'll most likely do some grinding on exhaust side when it's time. Myswell since I do what I can when I can when all it costs me is time. 

 

Studs, valves, deck, grind. Possibly lip in intake since itl be at the machine shop. Put a few thousand at it maybe 2500. Plan for doing it at tax time. 

We just had a shoo do our 6.7 for 3500 I was unimpressed with what we got for 3500. But that was labor and all. I did zero wrench turning. Actually made me sick knowing I could have got more for 3500. But I'm not the boss or money man so he did it how he wanted and truck couldn't be down long.

 

MoparMan I'm at 7 8 psi cruising same speed as you. 10 on little inclines. Not really sure what mpg I'm getting. Better than our 6.7 though for sure. I just can't run small tires. Not in my blood

Edited by Evan

  • Owner

Just for my head gasket job... Head gasket kit, replaced 18 valve guides, valves, surfaced, checked for cracks, etc. Was right at $2,000. Just repaired the damaged stuff and installed. 

 

Still in all, there is no sense in any head work unless you plan on WOT nearly all the time. Just not going to be any gains...

3 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

What mods are on it now?

 

Yeah signature would be good...

 

I filled out sig but it wont take it.

 

7x09, exhaust, bhaf, s03, 47re has alot of money. Ohh 150 pump big line from tank to injection. Essential gauges to.

Undecided on s03 also have a superchips. May get rid them for a turbo.

Hx40 pr something cheap

 

Usable 350-400 is what I'm after. Ok to over 400 if usable.

Edited by Evan

That would be right in the realm of stock head bolts or studs, but stock bolts should be good unless you crank the HX40 up. 

 

The hybrid that @Mopar1973Man man runs would be a great turbo too. 

  • Owner

Most here go for the 62/68/12... My 60/60/12 HX35/40 hybrid I grabbed it for the fact I didn't want to lose my exhaust brake which most aftermarket turbos you end up losing the exhaust brake (turbo mounted) then moving to in-pipe exhaust brake.