Drove the truck over 100miles today, hasn’t done any kind of distance in awhile.  After about 30 miles, started to feel gravelly pedals, both brake and clutch felt weird, when pressed felt gravelly under my feet.  Braking seemed a little weak too and power steering more intermittent than normal.  At about mile 40 had to brake hard compared to normal braking and the truck pulled left...  not sure where to start my chase, any thoughts?

Right hand front brake sticking as it's pulling left. Jack up each front wheel one at a time. You'll probably find brakes sticking especially right side. Do the same for rears, then check steering joints for wear

My first thought was vacumn pump pr brake booster whatever its called

When was the last time you changed the power steering fluid? Remember Power Steering fluid need to be changed every 30k miles.

 

I changed it less than 5k miles ago.  I need to do the vacuum pump rebuild, and yesterday the truck had fluid under it that wasn't oil so found a wet hydroboost line.  Wet all the way at the top and obviously running and blowing all over the truck underneath.  SO now I want to replace everything that NEEDS to be replaced.  Truck has always had the intermittent or no power steering (at low rpm).  Thinking I may put a ps pump in the truck while I am in there.  I will look for and read through as many as the articles that pertain to this as possible.  Is it worth spending the money on the "big" name pumps? (Borgeson, etc?)  I am on 235 tires so no undue stress there.  I will want to flush and confirm any and all debris is out of the box and hydro pump, hopefully the vacuum pump is healthy enough for the rebuild (truck has 350k on it).  Will do a full underbody detail as it is a MESSSSSSS now with the hydro leaking too....  Open to all experience and wisdom before I dive in this weekend.  Truck is parked until this is all done..

The power steering system has lots of small orifices. You would need to tear it all down and blow out all the small parts. Like the power valve in the steering box, the valve in the hydrobooster, and then the small ports in the power steering pump. 

 

This is why you flush the system out BEFORE installing any now parts. Blue Top even tags the gear box stating that the system needs a complete flushing BEFORE installing and will not warranty the steering box for debris issues from lack of flushing. 

 

To this day I'm still running my OEM pump and flush the fluid every 30k miles. 

I got a vacuum pump rebuild from Gould. And new ps lines and a new ps pump both borgson. All three are you get at Genos Garage. There's even a video straight from gould on how to do the vacuum pump rebuild step by step if your unsure. Total worth it. 

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The power steering system has lots of small orifices. You would need to tear it all down and blow out all the small parts. Like the power valve in the steering box, the valve in the hydrobooster, and then the small ports in the power steering pump. 

 

This is why you flush the system out BEFORE installing any now parts. Blue Top even tags the gear box stating that the system needs a complete flushing BEFORE installing and will not warranty the steering box for debris issues from lack of flushing. 

 

To this day I'm still running my OEM pump and flush the fluid every 30k miles. 

so when you say flush that is pulling the return line off and continuing to fill with new fluid until new fluid is coming out?

 

Thank You Mike

I've been doing the fluid flush without the engine going. You need to pull the steering box return not the hydro-booster. Now cap the pump off so it holds fluid. With the axle jacked up slightly now just unlock the steering wheel (engine OFF). Now go lock to lock slowly and the steering box will pull fluid all the way through the system. I typically flush a quart through the system. It hold slightly over a quart dry.

"Now cap the pump off so it holds fluid."

 

I am not sure I am understanding what you are telling me here.

Put a cap or plug of some sort on the reservoir nipple where you took the hose off so the oil stays in the reservoir during the process. I cut a short piece of rubber line, stuffed a bolt in the end to plug it, and put it back on the nipple until I was done with the flush. just need to plug the hole so fluid doesn't run out.

Edited June 19, 20195 yr by dave110

Yep. What they said. 

so I am pulling the STEERING BOX return line, but I am actually pulling it off of the PUMP RESERVOIR?  than blocking the nipple that I pulled the line off of at the reservoir?  Sorry I learn better visually than with all of this reading.. 

You got it 

So I am thinking since I am rebuilding the vacuum pump and am going to have the pump and everything out anyway, now is the time to add a filter into the mix if guys are happy they are running filtered systems.  My thought is, if I am going to add the filter, why not set it up to be able to do the fluid flush every 30k much easier?  I am thinking maybe a T and a valve or would I potentially need 2 valves?  I am thinking I need to be able to stop the normal flow and divert it out to the drain pan while flushing new fluid in.  Thoughts??

https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Fuel-Three-Way-Valve-Brass/dp/B000MTB7QA

 

maybe something like this, could be mounted up top somewhere with a permanent flush line down below.  Everything mounted, slide the drip pan under the fitted "flush" line, switch valve to flush, flush it out, back to "normal flow" position and on your way. 

Edited June 20, 20195 yr by portlandareae28
spell check

Why not, if it makes changing the fluid easier.  P/S fluid changes are recommended every 30,000 mi but with a filter in there You might be able to go as long as 40-50k depending on the fluid condition.  So, with that in mind how often would you use that drain, every 3-4 years?  Is it worth putting in?   

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Why not, if it makes changing the fluid easier.  P/S fluid changes are recommended every 30,000 mi but with a filter in there You might be able to go as long as 40-50k depending on the fluid condition.  So, with that in mind how often would you use that drain, every 3-4 years?  Is it worth putting in?   

stop trying to instill wisdom and logic into my craziness..  :-)  I won't drive 30,000 miles in 6-7 years!  HAHAHAHHAHA  So I feel like I should really make the most out of this flush since I may never do it again on this truck 

How do you ever expect to hit a half mil on the odometer if ya only drive 4k a year.

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Why not, if it makes changing the fluid easier.  P/S fluid changes are recommended every 30,000 mi but with a filter in there You might be able to go as long as 40-50k depending on the fluid condition.  So, with that in mind how often would you use that drain, every 3-4 years?  Is it worth putting in?   

 

My truck requires yearly ps fluid changes. every October on the dot it starts acting up when it gets cold here.

58 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

My truck requires yearly ps fluid changes. every October on the dot it starts acting up when it gets cold here.

Mine is the opposite, While sees some colder weather depending on where I am working, it seldom gets changed except for siphoning the reservoir out and adding new fluid. but I seem to be the exception to the rule.