I have asked questions on here before, but now as I have some money saved up I am ready to spend a little on my truck and have a question to ask, that will most likely lead to 100 other questions. To start off with, I have a 2001 24 valve that just hit 194000 miles. I bought the truck completely stock performance wise other than an edge comp box, and have done nothing to it since. The only issues with the truck that I know of is the transmission pan seems to have a leak, which I believe I can easily fix by replacing the gasket, and I have a broken sway at bushing, but I have asked about this before and some people on here have said that they completely removed their sway bar and have no issues and as I have been driving the truck for a few months with a broken bushing I am not very concerned about it, unless you guys think I should be. So enough with all the back ground, my main thing is: I’m tired of running these stock wheels, I want something a little different. I was think about going with 20x12 and possibly 305 50 tires. What I don’t want to do is anything to the truck. Is this an ok move or do you guys believe this is a completely stupid move to put these wheels and tires on my truck with 0 modifications to the truck and stock suspension and steering. I don’t want to do something that will ruin my truck but would also love to put these on my truck. If there is something that needs to be done in order to put these on my truck, what would you guys recommend doing first?

Thank you in advance, and recommendations and comments are much appreciated, and please keep in mind I have no experience with any sort of mechanics so this is all a learning experience, so if you do reply to me, expect many questions ?

Edited June 21, 20195 yr by JAG1

5 minutes ago, wil440 said:

mines just thrown in the bed at the moment alongside 5gall engine oil, 5 gall cat coolant, jump leads, and 2 towing hitches, good thing about owning these trucks here is no one steals nowt outta the bed certainly not spare wheels, 8 stud... thats heavy truck stuff here

what trans is that  ? don't look much like my 47re

He has a manual 5 spd. trans that got rebuilt last year or the year before.

Edited June 22, 20195 yr by JAG1

Just now, JAG1 said:

He has a manual trans that got rebuilt last year or the year before.

temps are going to be different then and a auto is higher by design as the oil is driving the vehicle as thats the connection between crank and trans, on a manual all the oil is for is lube so 125deg means nothing to someone with a auto truck and it doesn't matter what you do if the truck is auto you will never see 125deg trans temp except less than 3 miles from your house

 

Point I'm making is we are all different, we all want different things, all our trucks need to be different machines, some want 1000hp I say crack on fill your boots, some want somewhere between 1000hp and 215hp stock auto with 4ft tyres and some want 30inch tyres some tow some dont same as crack on and fill your boots... it's mopar it will break whatever you do

A solid 18 miles to the gallon here and usually 800 to 1000 egt 150 trans 

Edited June 22, 20195 yr by Silverdodge

If you are going with the 035 50 20's you will be fine. They are only .4" taller than my 265 75 16's and stiil smaller than 285's. Width wise you will put extra strain on the steering.

 

I would sure find out whats going on with your fuel pressure. The VP will pull its own fuel and run but it is very hard on it. The VP is another $1000 bill.

Edited June 22, 20195 yr by dripley

The width of the wheels, plus the back spacing and offset is going to determine whether or not you have any rubbing issues.  I am running a 295/70R17, I was using an original style 3rd gen dodge wheel with no issues.  I put the same tires on a set of 17x9 wheels with more offset and back spacing and suddenly the tires were rubbing my side steps and inner fender liner on one side.  I ended up getting different steps that I like better anyhow and doing a 1.5" leveling kit to clear all the rubbing.  Find the wheels you like and get the BS and offset specs then do some googling.  I recently got a set of wheels and tires for my 67 mustang and spent about a month searching forums and websites to verify the dimensions would work on the car.  The fact that it was an internet order so no trial fitments, made it even more pertinent that I had all my ducks in a row. 

7 hours ago, JAG1 said:

He has a manual 5 spd. trans that got rebuilt last year or the year before.

 

NV4500 5 speed. That was rebuilt 4 years ago. I've already 120k miles on that transmission already. Running 50 SAE Transmission fluid GL-4 Synthetic. Reason why it was rebuilt was I broke the main shaft in half. 

 

 

What I'm watching is temperatures in all places on the truck and rise in temperature means something is no longer running efficiently. If I drive too aggressive transmission temperature will rise. Very soon I'll have temp sensor in the rear diff cover. Then have a switch on the transmission temp gauge and be able to check the transmission and the rear diff temperature.  

 

Also as you make modification and if the mod now make the temperature rise you know your losing energy to heat now. If the modification reduces temperatures on the transmission and driveline then you going in the right direction making it more efficient. 

Edited June 23, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

NV4500 5 speed. That was rebuilt 4 years ago. I've already 120k miles on that transmission already. Running 50 SAE Transmission fluid GL-4 Synthetic. Reason why it was rebuilt was I broke the main shaft in half. 

 

 

What I'm watching is temperatures in all places on the truck and rise in temperature means something is no longer running efficiently. If I drive too aggressive transmission temperature will rise. Very soon I'll have temp sensor in the rear diff cover. Then have a switch on the transmission temp gauge and be able to check the transmission and the rear diff temperature.  

 

Also as you make modification and if the mod now make the temperature rise you know your losing energy to heat now. If the modification reduces temperatures on the transmission and driveline then you going in the right direction making it more efficient. 

I run 140 to 150 down the road transmission wise

13 minutes ago, Silverdodge said:

I run 140 to 150 down the road transmission wise

 

Yeah I ran about the same coming home. I was hot footing it. Cruise set for 67 to 68 MPH. If someone slowed down I would stomp the loud pedal and go on around. On my way down I was set at 65 MPH and more conservative and not passing as much. 

 

38 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yeah I ran about the same coming home. I was hot footing it. Cruise set for 67 to 68 MPH. If someone slowed down I would stomp the loud pedal and go on around. On my way down I was set at 65 MPH and more conservative and not passing as much. 

 

9 time out of 10 I'm running 70 to 75 but I don't deal with mountain travel

 

I've got to travel 2.5 hours to reach a interstate and to be able to travel 70 and 80 MPH. The rest of the highways I travel are 45, 55 and 65 MPH typically. 

How remote do u live 

4 minutes ago, Silverdodge said:

How remote do u live 

 

2.5 hours or 125 miles to get to Walmart.

 

https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

 

My place is on the right. Huge maple tree in the back yard and the two houses make a L shape.

Edited June 23, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man

12 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

So it’s a possibility I have no fuel pressure at all? Even though it’s running?

 

Yea, sometimes it can run rough when it drops to 0, mine did sometimes, but many times you may not physically notice anything wrong with the truck even with the pressure dropping low, that is until your vp gives you the finger and quits working.

 

7 hours ago, dripley said:

I would sure find out whats going on with your fuel pressure. The VP will pull its own fuel and run but it is very hard on it. The VP is another $1000 bill.

Either your fuel pressure gauge is not working right, or it is and you have a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP. 

 

If it is reading properly and your fuel pressure is low to none, you most likely need a lift pump. Is yours stock or aftermarket? Better to spend around 500 dollars now on a aftermarket lift pump(dont replace with another stock one) than 1500+ on a lift pump and VP.

 

While your at it, you might as well run ½ fuel lines from tank to vp when you change the lift pump.

I say get your wheels and tires.

I like my truck with taller tires.

 

I've done no mods to be able to run 33-35" tires. I did do a 2" level spacer that bolts in on the front. My trucks a 3500 and factory they sit with about a 5" nose down rake. When I towed 20k that was perfect I try to not put more than 16k behind the truck now.

 

I really really like the 3rd gen wheels that I have. I bought one set for 100 bucks and traded into this set. They had the cooper 285x70x17 already mounted. I shined them up and holy moly I like them.

 

285x70x17s are about 33"x11" tire.

My other tires are 285x75x17 about a 35"x11" tire. I have them in the shed. I'll run these coopers bald then switch back.

 

I regularly tow 11000 lbs. have done a few mods fuel system, gauges, track bar, injectors.

 

I'd say get your tires and wheels out of the way and get a fuel gauge on it and go from there. 

 

I've had my truck for about 15 years only major repairs have been injection pump and tranny. Mines 47re that lasted to 280,000 miles. It's now been rebuilt.

Injection pump was replaced right at 15years ago. Dodge did a retrofit in tank lift pump research here soon had me replacing it with a fuel system because it only had 4psi at idle. I now cruise down the free way at 75mph wwth 18psi  drops to about 15 to 14 pulling a grade.

 

Also no excessive egts temps due to tires empty I cruise at 700-800 towing flat ground about 900-1100 pulling grades I'll bounce around 1200 sometimes 1300 depending on grade and what I'm towing. I'm running factory 3.55 gears. Boost fooler and turn buckling waste get helped a ton with egts while towing

 

Definitely fun reliable trucks.

 

Heres the 3rd gen wheels. They sit out further on my truck because I have a dually rear axle that's  wider than single axles. I matched the front axle to it with 1.5" spacers. Yes I have spacers on for looks I can hear the guys gears turning now. Lol they dont like spacers many dont nit i have had no issues with them they're on for looks is all. But my tires did rub control arms with out them yours wont because youl have 4.5-3" back spaces wheels.  Get 4.5" 

If you get wheels wider than 8 you might though.

20x8 wheels with some good street tires would be very cool.

20"x10" or 12" wheels do not look good. They stick out to far and are wider than the tire look horrible actually.

I like wheels to not be wider than the tread face. The tires in pic have about a 9.5" wide tread face. So slightly wider than the 8" wheel. I wouldnt want a tire with a tread face narrower then 8" on a 8" wheel. Tire sidewall is still wider than 8"

 

I'll stop rambling

Edited June 23, 20195 yr by Evan

On 6/22/2019 at 10:40 AM, Royal Squire said:

Might want to get a test gauge to make sure you have fuel pressure. 

Where can I get one and how do I use it? What is the price of one?

16 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

 

Either your fuel pressure gauge is not working right, or it is and you have a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP. 

 

If it is reading properly and your fuel pressure is low to none, you most likely need a lift pump. Is yours stock or aftermarket? Better to spend around 500 dollars now on a aftermarket lift pump(dont replace with another stock one) than 1500+ on a lift pump and VP.

 

While your at it, you might as well run ½ fuel lines from tank to vp when you change the lift pump.

I have a raptor 4g lift pump. What are 1/2 fuel lines?

Mechanical fuel pressure gauge can be had with all the fittings and hose for $75 or you can get a cheap oil pressure gauge from the local parts store for $30. 1/2 line  refers to the diameter of the hose from the lift pump to the injector pump

2 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

I have a raptor 4g lift pump. What are 1/2 fuel lines

There is a very good chance you already have 1/2 fuel lines with the AD pump you have on it. Check the lines going to the pump. The pump will ahve 2 filters on it and most lkely mounted on the frame rails near the rear of the drivers door.  They should flexable and about 3/4" or so in diameter. Then its just a matter of chasing where they go.

Do you guys think that 33x12.5 tires would be too big? 

Stock tires: 31.6x10.4 

(ones in question):  33x12.5

My liftpump

if you look to the far right, where the picture ends and the tube goes out of frame you can see a small drip. What does this mean and how can it be fixed? Could this be causing my fuel pressure to be low?

3 hours ago, dripley said:

pump will ahve 2 filters on it and most lkely mounted on the frame rails near the rear of the

I don’t have two filters 

Are those pumps adjustable? Looks like you can turn up the pressure with and allen wrench. That drips is diesel but idk if those are push lock type fittings that can be cut off.

41 minutes ago, 98whitelightnin said:

Are those pumps adjustable? Looks like you can turn up the pressure with and allen wrench. That drips is diesel but idk if those are push lock type fittings that can be cut off.

I’m not sure, I’ll lyk as soon as I can though.

42 minutes ago, 98whitelightnin said:

Looks like you can turn up the pressure with and allen wrench.

I can turn up the pressure by using an Allen wrench?