New to the community today! Excited to meet you all, been lurking for a while. This may end up being a bit long winded, I figure the more info the better for opinions.

Truck Is a 1999 24V 2500 ex cab automatic190,000+ miles (owned since 111,000) I had transmission flushed and filter changed early on. Some point a couple years in i started to get some transmission "hunting?" on hills in higher gear range with low throttle 45mph-ish (thinking in and out of overdrive?) Anyway, I had resolved this issue it seamed by moving the large ground wire away from the alternator to the top the radiator.. This worked for me for a few years. This makes me believe I must have the AC alternator interference I read about. A year ago or so I decided to change my own trans fluid and filter and attempt a band adjustment as I have read it should be done on the regular, although you also hear don't touch it, too late. (Messy job! No drain plug! WHY!?) So, these days I am experiencing some similar trans "hunting" it seemed to happen after the band adjustment but it is in the 1-2 gear range with very light throttle, more often on a hill. If I stomp on it it does not seem to have issues, pulls hard no slips or hunting. There seems to be a lot of gear searching in low gears depending a lot on the throttle. I'm wondering if my band adjustment is partially to fault for the symptoms. Although i never corrected the alternator issue, which leaves me to wonder if adjusting the bands could have made the the system more sensitive to the AC noise i probably still have based on my first ground wire rerouting? I notice that when put into reverse it seems to hit pretty hard on engage.. The 45 mph overdrive hunting seems to be a non-issue these days as it holds the OD going up hills well now.. This makes me think the band responsible for the lower gears and reverse could be loosened up a touch maybe?? Would the bands effect the shifts in this way or is it AC noise related or maybe both?? I want to open up the trany in the future to do another filter change and maybe a small adjustment to bands again. I have read and searched so much I think I'm confused

  -Next time I'm in the trany are there some small parts like solenoids or springs or anything i could change to keep it healthy without getting in too deep?

  -I am in the process of doing the "W-T ground mod" I can not find the bolt that fits into the VP44 for ground. listed as M5 5/16 hex head which is one size too small for my hole, closest i came was M6 0.8 pitch which goes in a turn and a quarter or so and gets snug. Possible people have different size holes on VP44?? I think I have to use the bolt i found and pray it holds tight. If not I guess i can come up with a ground close by even if extension is needed.

  -Looks like I have a Bosch alternator, what are my options for diodes or addressing AC noise? Alternator replacement choices?

 

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for joining in on our forum and confiding in our members even if we are just a bunch of 'Mainlanders'. Don't forget to join in the conversation whenever possible. 

If you're at 2800 on your WOT 1-2 shift, and it feels good, then leave it alone. 3K for the WOT 2-3 is about right as well. I'd leave it alone, but definitely adjust your bands if you haven't done so already. Assuming that your transmission is stock, I'd run the front band at 2 turns out, and the rear band at 3 turns out.

 

Don't be messing with the TV lever stop. That's not an adjustment that needs to be messed with except for when setting up the valve body. Yes, I do have specs that I use, but it depends entirely upon the application.

 

 

On 8/4/2019 at 4:15 PM, Evan said:

It may firm shift under light throttle.

 

Putting a gauge on it would determine if it's a healthy tranny. I'm guessing that it is since it firm shifts.

You might readjust bands though it sounds like. good.

 

You can do a Borg Warner solenoid. And tranducer.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201295614242

This kit has many parts to it. I wonder if I can install them all easily...

I wonder if it ain't broken don't fix it...

I wonder if it could run much better with a couple new do-hickies installed...

 

Assuming my transmission is still happy at 193k miles. (Still curious about the low throttle 1-2 stumble, after a drive yesterday, WIP) What are opinions on what to change/upgrade at my next service?

Any schooling  and elaboration on how these effect my transmission is most welcome.

Also as i browse, I see mentioning of some things being easier vs harder to get to in there.

 

$103 for georend pan to ship to Hawaii...$334 total Is it worth it? (cant find much else for much cheaper at that quality)

I can get a stock one with a drain plug for $33 shipped...tempting (assuming trans pans main benefit is cooling maybe there's a better $ way to cool it.? Maybe get a Temp. bung welded on it..) I mean at this point I dont tow, just a DD. I ramble...

 

Irie

 

 

 

In my experience and opinion, the main benefit of an aluminum pan is to strengthen the case.

I have the Goerend pan and it's a very nice piece but that's a lot of money for it shipped. 

I got my ppe blemished pan off ebay for 120.

 

Dynamic 

I have searched and found nothing on where to set TV stop not for any application.  I guess I need to search harder. I dont have 47re manul and grew tired of it. I thought i had TV stop where i wanted but now i notice some early downshifts I'm thinking raise minumum tv pressure slightly will make downshifts happen later. I dont want to tighten cable because it's right where i want it.

However i did thinkin about making arm longer to take up slack and still pull close to linear with throttle input. Maybe ad a few balls on the arm 1/2" apart from eachother 

I think to much. 

I'm getting close to 15k on it since i last had the pan off. Pretty happy with it but it can always be better

1 hour ago, Evan said:

I got my ppe blemished pan off ebay for 120.

 

Dynamic 

I have searched and found nothing on where to set TV stop not for any application.  I guess I need to search harder. I dont have 47re manul and grew tired of it. I thought i had TV stop where i wanted but now i notice some early downshifts I'm thinking raise minumum tv pressure slightly will make downshifts happen later. I dont want to tighten cable because it's right where i want it.

However i did thinkin about making arm longer to take up slack and still pull close to linear with throttle input. Maybe ad a few balls on the arm 1/2" apart from eachother 

I think to much. 

I'm getting close to 15k on it since i last had the pan off. Pretty happy with it but it can always be better

I have been researching the TV cable adjustment too and haven't really found anything crystal clear.  I adjusted mine when I rebuilt and didn't really have a clue what I was doing but it seems to be good.  It would be nice to have a good tutorial though. 

Luckily I know nothing about automatic transmission other than it works off pressure. 

On older gm 350 and 400 I messed with, all I did was pull the clip for TV cable then press throttle all the way and locked in the clip. Worked fine for what I did, which was bit the crap out of it mudding.  

Ohhh man. 

I have not tested it with lever clipped back.

I'd imagine late hard shifts under light throttle possible break the input shaft 

The only time the TV lever stop is doing anything at all is when the throttle is at minimum; ie. foot off the accelerator. You should not be getting downshifts with your foot off of the throttle, unless you're talking about rolling to a stop. But like I said before, the TV lever stop is not intended to be an adjustment that can be fine tuned. You just set it when setting up the valve body, and leave it alone. Any "specs" for setting the TV lever stop will likely be difficult to obtain.

 

Neither the 350 or 400 used a TV cable, so there is no correlation there whatsoever. The 700R4 used a TV cable, but the setting procedure is completely different.

3 hours ago, Dynamic said:

 

Neither the 350 or 400 used a TV cable, so there is no correlation there whatsoever. The 700R4 used a TV cable, but the setting procedure is completely different

I was probably talking about kickdown cable,  tells you how much I know about automatic transmissions.

18 hours ago, Dynamic said:

In my experience and opinion, the main benefit of an aluminum pan is to strengthen the case.

From Georend website FAQ:

5.     The sides of our pan are NOT ribbed for strength. If you hit a rock or something else we want the transmission pan to break away. Pans that are excessively beefed up on the side may not break and you may break your transmission case instead. It is much easier and cheaper to replace the transmission pan than the transmission case.

 

After looking at kits and kits and trying to see what parts can be changed rather easily or are most important, it would seem the governor pressure solenoid is the main component to improve feel of transmission. In some kits you may get a speed sensor, 8pin dual pack shift sensor, governor pressure sensor, accumulator spring.

My reading leads me to believe most other parts might throw a code or have a failure moment the would be noticeable, whereas the pressure solenoid is a part that can function but might not be strong enough to do its job well.

 

What are opinions on the Borg Warner governor pressure solenoid VS that GM retrofit part?

What is a good reusable trans pan gasket?

 

 

 

I believe @Dynamic means is strengthens the case during normal operation and not from impacts with rocks or whatever.

11 hours ago, dripley said:

I believe @Dynamic means is strengthens the case during normal operation and not from impacts with rocks or whatever.

I invision the trans case possibly twisting tweeking under load and the trans pan helps stop that stress on the trans case.

12 hours ago, dripley said:

I believe @Dynamic means is strengthens the case during normal operation and not from impacts with rocks or whatever.

Yes, this. The 47RE case is actually quite flimsy. An aluminum pan stiffens the case considerably. The quote from Goerend's website is referencing direct impact from rocks or whatever.

20 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I was probably talking about kickdown cable,  tells you how much I know about automatic transmissions.

Just for reference, the 350 used a detent ("kickdown") cable, the 400 used no cable at all (electric), and the 700R4 used an actual TV cable.

On 8/6/2019 at 9:31 PM, Irie808 said:

This kit has many parts to it. I wonder if I can install them all easily...

I wonder if it ain't broken don't fix it...

I wonder if it could run much better with a couple new do-hickies installed...

 

Assuming my transmission is still happy at 193k miles. (Still curious about the low throttle 1-2 stumble, after a drive yesterday, WIP) What are opinions on what to change/upgrade at my next service?

Any schooling  and elaboration on how these effect my transmission is most welcome.

Also as i browse, I see mentioning of some things being easier vs harder to get to in there.

 

$103 for georend pan to ship to Hawaii...$334 total Is it worth it? (cant find much else for much cheaper at that quality)

I can get a stock one with a drain plug for $33 shipped...tempting (assuming trans pans main benefit is cooling maybe there's a better $ way to cool it.? Maybe get a Temp. bung welded on it..) I mean at this point I dont tow, just a DD. I ramble...

 

Irie

 

 

 

I dispair sometimes on shipping cost to the UK so know where you're coming from, trans pan for me would be around £400 landed at my door. Missed one used on ebay uk last month for £145. I was £2 short ?