After testing and conferring the consensus is my truck needs a new torque convertor.  The truck is used 95% of the time towing a 8,000+ pound 5th wheel and the transmission is basically stock.    Which brand is good and which type, stock or billet?  Should it be a single or triple disk?  High or low stall speed?  Any thing else you can think of.

13 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Your trans now in possession and control of America's finest.  Truck driver.

You're filling me with confidence.

3 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

You're filling me with confidence.

Matter of fact got my first class a in san Marco's to deliver dry wall.  Outfit called dun-rite drywall.  Long gone I bet...1976 I think.  

 

Jag1...also took roofing class at Palamare junior collage.  

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

  On its' way to @Dynamic for a "Stage 2" rebuild with a Goerend convertor. 

 

I'm jealous.

I fabbed a transmission jack out of a floor jack worked awesome till it couldn't  roll out from under truck and it wouldnt clear any where to roll out and cab of truck was touching shelves above .

 

Drag tranny off jack and out from under truck. Fun. That was when it was a dually and I couldn't even walk around it in my chicken coup size shop 

 

Still better than gravel

 

 

Cant wait to see how you like it. I'm really wanting his valve body.

 

 

Edited September 11, 20195 yr by Evan

I'll do it again. Normal floor jack and no adapter plates or weird stuff. Just a single ratchet strap. As for getting the transmission off the floor that is easy too. Two ratchet strap and sling it up in the air. Then place your floor jack and use that single ratchet strap to hold on the jack. Raise into position. Best if the truck is flat on the ground. 

 

Even got a board rigged for even G56 transmissions. Auto or manual you can do single ratchet strap.

Edited September 12, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man

Many people run a low stall on a bigger turbo ten complain.

 

This one would work well for you. for $600 or so https://www.dieselautopower.com/stage-2-single-disk-torque-converter-low-stall-billet-cover-for-47rh-47re-rated-up-to-850lbft-550hp

 

We have a triple disk for under $900, but with a triple disk you would want a billet input.

 

Upgraded flex plate for about $100 is recommended.

Above about a 60mm turbo, you really need to run a stock stall speed converter, especially on a 2nd Gen VP44 application. Stock turbos love about 200 rpm under stock. I run triples on stock input shafts all the time. More often than not, actually. In fact, I don't run, or even recommend a single disc converter in any application.

What's the secret to get the stock shaft to survive with a tripple

On 9/10/2019 at 7:24 PM, 015point9 said:

Jag1...also took roofing class at Palomar junior collage. 

That's 10 minutes from my house where I got a degree in construction management and where my wife retired from.

 

On 9/11/2019 at 9:54 AM, Evan said:

I fabbed a transmission jack out of a floor jack worked awesome till it couldn't  roll out from under truck and it wouldnt clear any where to roll out and cab of truck was touching shelves above .

I had a BIG piece of cardboard over the dirt with a smaller piece of plywood for the jack to roll on.  Right after I separated the trans from the engine, my jack handle got stuck, between the bracket for the drive shaft center support and the bed of the truck.  I could not move the jack back or move it forward so I stared letting it down while trying to clear the transmission cooling line that was hanging there. 

 

The transmission was almost down so I moved it back a little on the jack to help clear that cooling line.  The transmission falls off the jack on to its' right side and trans fluid starts pouring out.  I slide out from the left side of the truck, run to the right side and try to rotate the trans to the left.  I try to rotate the trans but it rolls further to the right pinning my right forearm while all the while ATF is pouring out and flowing towards me.  Some how I managed, with my left arm, to lift the transmission high enough to remover my, now ATF covered, right arm from under the transmission.  

 

Now, with the transmission off the jack and up righted I find out it won't clear the frame by at least 3" so back to jacking up the truck and then dragging it out.  The next time the transmission has to come out I'll go have a root cannel and have someone else pull it.    

My bright idea was to pull the transmission and transfer case all at once by myself, I have a concrete floor at least. It was a challenge, eventually it rolled at some point forget when and I broke the output speed sensor, could have been separating it from the Tcase when it was out.. Other then that it was same deal.as soon as you have it figured out its just a bit too tall to slide out on the jack.

 

Always best to remove the transfer case first then the transmission next. If you don't have the room. Sling the transmission up on the frame rails and then lower it down slowly to the floor. Then you can slide it out. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Always best to remove the transfer case first then the transmission next. If you don't have the room. Sling the transmission up on the frame rails and then lower it down slowly to the floor. Then you can slide it out. 

Not much sliding with the 5600 on plywood. Dropped it with a floor jack and was able to get it out just dont remeber how. The second time was to replace the throw out bearing so did not have to get out from under the truck. The third time was in the dead of winter so I paid someone to do it.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Always best to remove the transfer case first then the transmission next. If you don't have the room. Sling the transmission up on the frame rails and then lower it down slowly to the floor. Then you can slide it out. 

That might be the best thing for a manual since it has to go back before it goes down.  I think an auto is actually a little easier.  If you don't have a device to spread the frame then you must remove the transfer case first so you can slide the crossmember back and out.  But if you can spread the frame to remove the crossmember and have a capable transmission jack then the tranny and transfer case can be pulled as one unit and then seperated on the ground.  That's how I did it anyways.  I did put them back in separately however. 

15 minutes ago, dripley said:

Not much sliding with the 5600 on plywood. Dropped it with a floor jack and was able to get it out just dont remeber how. The second time was to replace the throw out bearing so did not have to get out from under the truck. The third time was in the dead of winter so I paid someone to do it.

The 5600 is a beast.  I bet it weighs more by itself than my auto and transfer case combined. 

My first truck was Chevy with a sm465 4 speed. Transmission didnt look all that big. So I unbolted it some how got it to clear and realized just how heavy it was ounce it was on my chest. The thi g was a monster. I've never pulled a pickup tranny with out some kind of jack since then..

 

Just done a clutch on a 1992 Chevy 350 pickup. This thing was tiny compared to a NV4500 or a G56 transmission. Even this was on the two post with a transmission jack. Even with all the nice tools it still can be a turd some times to line up even with all the professional tools. It was so light I was picking the transmission off the jack and just shoved it in place. Being is was so light you tend to over do the angles really quick.

 

My NV4500 was a bit more fun. Laying on the floor and attempting to gain enough strength to push from the floor and even wiggle that beast in place. Still in all it was a PITA to get to finally seat in place. 

 

The biggest help is to get at least two bolts that are the proper thread but much longer that stock bolts. Cut the heads off and use them for alignment pins. This basically lines everything up for a straight push. This trick applies to automatics too where you can put the pin bolts in the lower bellhousing holes and slide it in.

Does the NV4500 bellhousing have alignment dowels to line it up like the 47RE has? Because of the dowels, I've never felt the need to use studs to help line it up. Plus there's no splines to align.

23 minutes ago, kzimmer said:

Does the NV4500 bellhousing have alignment dowels to line it up like the 47RE has? Because of the dowels, I've never felt the need to use studs to help line it up. Plus there's no splines to align.

My 5600 has no doweis to line it up. I would assume 4500 does not either.

The flex plate that @Dynamic includes in his "Stage 2" build  showed up in the mail yesterday.  It feels like it weighs all most twice a much as the stock flex plate on the right.  I installed it this afternoon and tighten the bolts to 105  ft.-lbs..   The transmission should be at my friend's shop tomorrow afternoon and installed, hopefully, by tomorrow night.