Hey guys. Sorry to write another thread, but I'm needing to get some things fixed and need a little help.

 

1st: powersteering pump.

   So Genos garage has a new, not rebuilt borgeson steering pump for my truck. I believe its 800328. I've thought about just resealing mine, but there is more going on to it than I think a re-seal will do. Fluids smell burnt, its leaking, and it whines and groans prett bad, especially in the morning. 258k miles I'm sure it's about done.

    They have the same pump on amazon, but the reviews arent pretty. So I'm not sure what to do here, I dont want to take a risk and buy a piece of crap. 

    While it's out, I'll be re-sealing the vacuum pump. Also, what is a good steering fluid to use in the new pump?

 

2nd: axel seal

 

    So when I had my ball joints done, I was going to have my axel seal done too while he was at it. But he told me I have the wrong part. I made sure at napa it was the axel with the CAD, but when looking online at torque king .com, it doesnt look the same. I've included a pic of napas for some help clarifying too. Also, the torque king has the CAD seal too, NAPA didnt. 

https://torqueking.com/product/4631/qk4631-cad-side-front-inner-axle-seal-tool-kit-1988-2001-dodge/

 

What are your guys thoughts? 

My pump is leaking quite a bit just sitting over the weekend, I need to get it done soon.

 

Thanks for the continued help.

On the steering give Ryan @Blue-Top Steering a shout and he's got seal kits for our steering boxes. As for the power steering pump you could just get a NAPA but make sure you flush the entire system before changing either the pump or the steering box.

 

Not to badmouth anyone, but I had to replace my output shaft seal on my Blue Top Steering box. I called Ryan up and he send a new seal to me. I was able to seal change without pulling the steering box. Again thanks Ryan for the support for your product!

I'll probably be replacing the lines too

I dont know if this is all the lines here, but it looks like it.BORG-925117 on genos or amazon.

 

As for the steering box, I'm not doing that quite yet. But maybe the spring. Either red head or blue top, but blue top looks like it's got a huge back order for our style of trucks last I checked.

 

Again, I think my powersteering pump is about done. Its smells burnt, groans like a bear, and leaks a lot too. So there may be damage already done. 

 

But the axel seal........

 

Is that a pinion seal?

No, it's the axle tube seal

17 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

I dont know if this is all the lines here, but it looks like it.BORG-925117 on genos or amazon

That looks like all the lines you'll need and an inline filter should be installed on the power steering box return line.  

 

 

Edited December 3, 20195 yr by IBMobile

I would just get a new pump someplace, but before I would remove the old one, I would flush the system till the fluid is clean using the old pump, then install a filter like suggested, then instal a new pump. That way you won't contaminate the new pump. Then change your fluid more frequently along with a filter. 

On the seal, the one you're holding looks right from the picture. It has metal lip that guides axles haft in. Not sure about them part numbers. 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I would just get a new pump someplace, but before I would remove the old one, I would flush the system till the fluid is clean using the old pump, then install a filter like suggested, then instal a new pump. That way you won't contaminate the new pump. Then change your fluid more frequently along with a filter. 

On the seal, the one you're holding looks right from the picture. It has metal lip that guides axles haft in. Not sure about them part numbers. 

I always wondered why it was so easy to get the axles back in. Thought maybe I was that good or just lucky.

Hey guys, I'd figure i would give an update to the axle seal situation since I got it done. I'll just say it sucks, and hats off to those who can some how knock it out in an hour or two.

 

I forgot about this thread, sorry about starting the other one about powersteering pump brands, should've asked on this one. I went with a borgeson through genos garage, and plan to install it next week weather permitting. I'll let you know how it goes and if any problems with it.

 

I also bought the CAD kit because the housing was going to be taken off to get to the axle seal anyway.

The CAD (central axel disconnect) rebuild kit is pretty straight forward. The clips are a bear to get out and put back in, but otherwise its really simple when you have it in front of you as to what goes where. Take a picture so you know the correct way the fork goes in when you put it back together. Mine had a bad vacuum leak, so I'm glad I did this since I had it apart. Its a 100 bucks, but it is what it is, 260k miles is a long time for those things to last.

 

You need a puller to get the new seal into the tube.

 

*if you wanted to, you could buy a puller kit, but it's over a 100 bucks, and usually needs to be ordered. Parts stores didn't have anything that would have worked for this. torqueking.com has thts.

 

I used a ¼thick steel plate on the outside of the axel tube with a hole drilled in the center and the all thread with the nut and washers to act as a puller to suck the new seal it. I ended up moving the plate to the steering kuckle later (make sure steering wheel is straight) so that I could see inside the tube if the seal was going in straight or not. It tends to not want to go in straight, just an fyi. I greased the outside metal of the new seal to make it go smoother, it doesnt seem to help much, but I'm sure it made some difference. There is a lip in the tube housing that will eventually stop the seal from moving forward. The old seal wasn't near that lip.

The last picture shows the lip a bit more clearly without the axel seal. You can see where the old seal didn't go up against the lip all the way.

 

Important note. There is a bushing on the outside half of the axel shaft. You can see in the pics the male end in the housing, the female end is the outside one. (Pics below) The bushing goes into the female end. Finding the part was a bit difficult, not a lot of info out there that I could find, but here is the part #. Spicer 43337- it was special order. Looks like Amazon has it too.

 

 

 

Parts:

--CAD kit -parts store or torqueking.com 

--½inch all thread 6 ft long, 2 nuts, 2 washers minimum and a steel plate(home cheapo has it all)

--2⅝hole saw( you'll have to shorten it to fit in the housing.) This pulls the seal forward. 

--Axle seal napa 19208 (doesn't have to be napa)

--Spicer 43337 axel disconnect inner bushing

 

 

Good job on getting it done 

Thanks @Dieselfuture. I literally have to research it to death, then work myself up to doing the job. I tend to greatly over think things. Powersteering is next (and vacuum pump reseal), so time to get pumped up lol

Good job! And thanks for the good pics. They will certainly help the next guy out. I made my own seal puller on a lathe. Never would have thought about using a hole saw. I like that idea. Some day I'll need to do the other side. Not looking forward to pulling the carrier. Gear sets scare me.

56 minutes ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Thanks @Dieselfuture. I literally have to research it to death, then work myself up to doing the job. I tend to greatly over think things. Powersteering is next (and vacuum pump reseal), so time to get pumped up lol

Good job. I suffer from some of the same issues as you. When tackling an unfamiliar job, l do the same. 

@Alexio Auditore, thank you for details and photos on the axle seal replacement.  My right axle seal has been leaking for about a year and you may have inspired me to replace it, now that I know what work is involved.

 

- John

@Tractorman, id say the most difficult thing is just making sure the the seal is pulled in straight. having another person helps too so they can see underneath the truck how its going in.. i had to pop it back out once actually(as gently as possible.) because it was going in at a angle. 

I would make sure to have that axle bushing on hand or easily obtainable from a store too in case you see that yours is worn or broken. Easy to replace, difficult to get lol

As far as fluid is concerned -- DO NOT USE ATF -- use power steering fluid.  I researched it a few years back and found that Valvoline 799222 is the correct fluid type for hydroboost systems.  It can be found in gallon containers (will need at least 3 qts for flush).  I was told by a Dodge mechanic that ATF can actually attack the seals in the hydroboost unit.

Thanks @Joe_Pool ill definitely not be using atf fluid on the powersteering, especially a brand new one. I was under the assumption that just using any powersteering fluid would be ok. (Its hydroboost) I'm thinking of just a synthetic, maybe the redline, or just valveoline. Will be cleaning out the old lines and steering box beforehand too.  

 

You might want to install a filter in the return line between the steering box and pump.

 

 

Yes, I will be doing that too, thanks. I think orileys has one I can get. Is there a special powersteering fluid I should be aware of?

 

Lets put it this way I'm at 410k miles now only fluid I've used in my power steering is Walmart Super Tech and NAPA power steering fluid. I still have my OEM pump. Not to mention never installed a filter but change the power steering fluid every 30k miles. The only work done to my pump is new reservoir seal. That's it. Gear box would of still been in but I traded with Blue Top for a quick ratio. My OEM box was in perfect shape but input seal failed. No filter needed, no special fluids required.

Power Steering pump changed, new lines, and vacuum pump re-sealed! It was not bad, just intimidating to start. A little tight getting to things too, but all and all, it was pretty simple and straightforward. Looks nice and clean too...

    So I have a question, I went for a drive, and the powersteering seems a bit on the weak side... and it groans a bit on turns too. This is a brand spanking new borgeson pump from genos garage. And I bled the crap out of the lines with the old pump, using 3 quarts or more of new fluid getting the old out. And new lines plus bleeding put a little more before reconnecting the return line from steering box to pump.

   After buttoning up everything, had it on stands and got air bubbles out of the system and.... Yada yada yada. ... should I give it some time to see if maybe there's a little air still trapped in the lines? How difficult should it be to turn the wheels just sitting on the ground not moving? I just want to make sure that this pump is not a problem from the get go ya know?