02 3500 nv5600 2wd quad cab. 233k.

 

I've been as diligent as possible regarding preventative maintenance, but you know how it is, entropy is a ***** and things go wrong. 

 

Now getting ready to put down some serious miles - long distance cross country driving soon, multiple times this spring and summer from NJ to Florida towing a haulmark 20ft car trailer (approx 7,000 gvwr).

 

Here is a list of the repairs i've done, as well as some pro-active maint in anticipation of major highway miles.  

Is there anything else I should do? Thinking I've got the major failure items covered.. Is there anything else that's know to fail on these 2nd gen 24 valve trucks?  Opinions or suggestions appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

List of recent maint and repairs (in descending order of failure , most recent first

- May 2020: 233k Fuel filter, Water pump, idler pulley, serp belt & cam position sensor (FWIW: the cam sensor wasn't bad, I just replaced it pro-actively)
- April 2020: 232k Alternator (Also did the W-T ground mod and B+ 150amp circuit breaker ), front brakes
- July 2019: pilot bearing, (bronze oilite) rear main seal, trans input and output seals, trans mount, manual trans filter kit and syncromesh lube (overfilled), clutch kit (southbend stage 2), & 4" stainless exhaust
- Mar 2019: 229k 4 new rear tires, Front shocks (SACHS 310178, love em! I tried bilstiens up front but they were WAAYYYYY too stiff.)
- Dec 2018: 228k: ALL brake lines, brake hoses and brake fluid.
- Aug 2018: 227k BHAF (baldwin PA2820)
- July 2018: 226k: timbo APPS
- Jan 2017: 219k Driver side ball joints, upper and lower, 2 new front tires, differential oil
- Dec 2016: New front wheel bearings (and axle nuts)
- Jan 2016 ALL U joints and center bearing (dana/spicer)
- Nov 2015: Harmonic balancer
- Oct 2015: New high flow power steering pump, rebuild vacuum pump, rear shocks (bilstien B46-1908)
- Nov 2014 all radiator and heater hoses
- Oct 2014: Front suspension components, tie rod ends, idler, pitman, drag link,
- Oct - Nov 2013: Fuel boss mechanical fuel pump and big line kit, fuel filter, front main seal, thermostat
- Aug 2013 213k rear wheel bearings (all) and seals,, differential oil, calipers (all) new rear rotors, e-brake shoes, puke bottle delete, cleaned radiator, killed the killer dowel pin, manual trans filter kit and syncromesh lube (overfilled)

- April 2013 bought truck. 213k.
 

 

Edited May 19, 20204 yr by Ironforger
.

 I try not to go over 1250 and also important to me is turbo cool down, I usually don't shut it off until 300 or below.  

3 hours ago, Ironforger said:

Edit: forgot to ask, what is that AC toggle switch for?  Sometimes in my truck I notice the AC compressor coming on while it's set in vent mode, just wanting some fresh air on a cool day without AC. Is that why? I can't figure out why it's coming on when it's no specifically on the AC setting.

Yeah I put a switch for the compressor with @IBMobile help on what wire to cut. I like the idea of being able to use AC on any vent setting when I needed, or like you said shut it off and just use air from outside. I might put another toggle for the blower.

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Yeah I put a switch for the compressor with @IBMobile help on what wire to cut. I like the idea of being able to use AC on any vent setting when I needed, or like you said shut it off and just use air from outside. I might put another toggle for the blower.

I was actually thinking about doing this about a week ago. I'd love to be able to kick on the AC and get it cold and then just keep it on max A/C but turn it off to keep circulating the cold air. I'm glad I'm not the only one who's thought about it!

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Yeah I put a switch for the compressor with @IBMobile help on what wire to cut. I like the idea of being able to use AC on any vent setting when I needed, or like you said shut it off and just use air from outside. I might put another toggle for the blower.

 

Sounds " cool!" Has a write up been done for this mod? What is actually happening when you flip that switch on? Does it energize the clutch magnet and keep it on constantly 100% no cycling on or off?

 

Thanks!

Edited May 22, 20204 yr by Ironforger

Just now, Ironforger said:

 

Sounds " cool!" Has a write been done for this mod? What is actually happening when you flip that switch on? Does it energize the clutch magnet and keep it on constantly 100% no cycling on or off?

 

Thanks!

You're essentially just allowing the A/C to be on or off in whatever position your want your vents to be in. Like Max A/C, Face A/C, Head and feet, and defrost / feet all make the compressor cycle. Doing it on a switch would allow you to put it on whichever vent you would like and command the compressor to turn on or off on the switch regardless of what position your vents are in. It's in just like all the newer vehicles.

31 minutes ago, Ironforger said:

Does it energize the clutch magnet and keep it on constantly 100% no cycling on or off?

Yes

Read this to the end because wire to cut changed.

 

28 minutes ago, Cronus577 said:

It's in just like all the newer vehicles.

I got this idea from older vehicles like Hondas that have a button.

I also like the idea of rec on/off and blower itself 

I know I shouldn't say this... I made it from New Meadows ID to Bullhead Ciy AZ. 900 mile trip. I look at it this way I used to drive mom 1,000 miles a week. 250k miles in 4 years. I've only been towed two times. Most all problem I could drive home to fix. This trip with AZ heat im going to build a trans heat shield to keep trans Temps down while I tow my RV home. My only problem is trans running hot side. I've got tools but every failure I've had no tools could fix.

 

Mainshaft failed in my NV4500 losing 3rd and 4th. Limited to 1st, 2nd, and 5th.

5th gear disappeared at 80 MPH. Limited to 4th.

VP44 failed at 247k miles then was stuck in full advance. Limited to 20 MPH.

Air Dog 150 dies and locked up after 250k miles and 13 years. Towed. No part stores carry Air Dog pumps.

12 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My only problem is trans running hot side

Thanks @Mopar1973Man  What are the average trans temps you typically see? 

 

I just arrived in Florida yesterday, my first of many trips to Florida this spring and summer. Towing my 20 ft haulmark enclosed trailer, loaded to the max. I got my rig weighed at a truck stop, about 18,500 lbs truck and trailer total. Made it safe, only issue I had was a clogged axle vent tube. Discovered it quite by accident. Soon after I embarked on my trip, I noticed the axle LSD clutches chattering on tight turns. Figured I needed another tube of LSD additive so I stopped and got some at an autoparts store. Went to put it in right there in the parking lot. When I went to take off the filler plug air hissed out.  The differential housing was under pressure, i'm guessing 3 to 5 psi. Who knows how long it was like that. Never thought to check the vent tube. It's a miracle my axle seals didn't blow out.   So I took off the vent nipple and hose. hose was totally clogged. (I'll cut that old hose open and post pictures when I get a chance).  Anyway I got some new 5/16 fuel hose and put it on right there. 

 

Otherwise trip was ok. I feel like I couldn't tow in 6th gear because the trans temps would begin rise as soon as I put it into 6th. Ran consistently cooler in 5th gear.  So I did most of the trip in 5th which wasn't particularly fun since I couldn't go much over 60 mph with my 4:10 axle gears.  I seriously want to switch to 3.54's so I can tow in 5th gear at highway speeds without heating up the trans.

I’d count that problem as a win! Cheap and easy fix. 

 

I still gotta tow in 5th with 3.55 gears pulling my gooseneck when it’s loaded, roughly 14-18k depending on the day. Egts and water temp creep up. Trans seem ok though when I do it. But I hear ya on the 60mph. Did it from key west, fl to oak harbor, wa. sucked 3 yrs ago when I did that move. 

9 hours ago, Towrigdually said:

Trans seem ok though when I do it.

 

@Towrigdually , do the fast coolers help? What trans temps average do you see while towing in 5th at highway speeds?

Were you able to compare trans temps before and after installing the fast coolers?

9 hours ago, Ironforger said:

Otherwise trip was ok. I feel like I couldn't tow in 6th gear because the trans temps would begin rise as soon as I put it into 6th. Ran consistently cooler in 5th gear.  So I did most of the trip in 5th which wasn't particularly fun since I couldn't go much over 60 mph with my 4:10 axle gears.  I seriously want to switch to 3.54's so I can tow in 5th gear at highway speeds without heating up the trans.

Happy your trip mostly un eventlful. Sorry I missed on your way thru. Sounds like we will have some opportunities though.

 

I have towed mine in 6th its entire life. I didnt have tranny temp gauge back in the but but i did just fine otherwise. I could pull about 1.5 to 2% grade at the max but it stil do it with out the throttle being on the floor. I would try a keep throttle about half way down when loaded in 6th. Did this with first with a 12k then 15k pound trailer grossing around 20k and 23k. The only time my cooling temps varied much was in the hilly country or a good pull across the Blue Ridge. Working the truck hard in mountains I could reach 200* to 210* but that is still in the safe zone per Cummins IIRC. After getting a tranny temp gauge I ran temps of around 180 to 190 on roads like the I 95 corrider between Florida and NJ. The only time I saw higher temps was in the mountains woking the truck hard and could hit 200*+ on the tranny. That was the only temp that ever bothered me when I was towing.

 Most all of this was on RV275'S and a Banks tuner. The tuner would defuel the engine if EGT'S got to 1250* or 1300*. The rated at adding 75 rwhp. I later added an Edge Comp but only towed on on level 2 or 3. Had to watch the egt gauge a bit closer with that set up but it still worked well. 

 I added fast coolers to mine a good while back prior to the temp gauge. So what difference it made in mine l dont know. 5th gear would run cooler on on the other temps I could read but I never felt I was in a danger zone while using 6th for the most part.

 I guess all I am saying is that I have always towed in 6th wothout any issues but did not run WOT while doing it.

 

No coolers I'm in Arizona right now and towed my RV 900 miles. Average was 160 to 180°F trans temp. I'm seeing slightly warm for empty running in town at 140 to 160°F in weather in the 110°F. I'm going to opt for the heat shield between exhaust to the trans. Lot of the grades are long and keep my EGTs near 1,000 to 1,100°F. The radiant heat starts the fluid to rise but still ok. Long grades can get to 200°F Mobil SAE 50 trans fluid doing good. Oh scaled weight of both 17,300 pounds.

 

Biggest thing is the 245s tires reduces stress on the trans and runs cooler than 265's or larger tires which my final ratio is 3.69:1 vs 3.55. Cooler temps and towing 66 MPH it exactly 2,000 RPM.

 

 

Edited May 28, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

14 minutes ago, dripley said:

Working the truck hard in mountains I could reach 200* to 210* but that is still in the safe zone per Cummins IIRC. After getting a tranny temp gauge I ran temps of around 180 to 190 on roads like the I 95 corrider between Florida and NJ. The only time I saw higher temps was in the mountains woking the truck hard and could hit 200*+ on the tranny.

@dripley , great info.  How much lube are you running in your trans? Did you overfill it?   I have my trans overfilled to the top bolt hole on the pto cover.

 

While towing in 5th, my trans temps were consistent average at 200*.  If I put it in 6th, the temps started creeping. Went as high as 219* at one point after about 20 min driving. Drop it back down to 5th and it would slowly cool back down to 200*.

I had some higher EGT's on some of the longer uphill grades along i-81 and i-77 in Virginia. Hit 1290* at one point.

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Long grades can get to 200°F Mobil SAE 50 trans fluid doing good.

Great info @Mopar1973Man . Is this the Moble SAE 50 trans fluid you are running?  https://www.mobil.com/en-US/Commercial-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GL-XX-Mobil-Delvac-1-Transmission-Fluid-50

 Look back at my post @dripley... im doing good but I'm going to build the heat shield. I'll be heading towards Layton, UT to collect my shirt from @dieselautopower.

1 hour ago, Ironforger said:

@dripley , great info.  How much lube are you running in your trans? Did you overfill it?   I have my trans overfilled to the top bolt hole on the pto cover

I run a quart over in mine. Penzoil snchromesh. My temp sensor is located on the 

passenger side, bottom hole on the fast cooler. Read a good bit about and figured it could not hurt anything. I did not have data to compare whether the extra made any difference though. Yours does seem to run warmer than does. Though I have seen my tranny temps upwards of 220* in mountains. I will downshift to 5th to overcome them. What tire size are you running? 265 75 17's on mine.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 Look back at my post @dripley... im doing good but I'm going to build the heat shield. I'll be heading towards Layton, UT to collect my shirt from @dieselautopower.

Yeah, I forgot about your smaller tires. That is a valid point.

Edited May 28, 20204 yr by dripley

3 hours ago, dripley said:

What tire size are you running? 265 75 17's on mine.

 

@dripley , I'm running 235 / 85 R16's. Factory size for the 02 3500 from what I understand? 

36 minutes ago, Ironforger said:

 

@dripley , I'm running 235 / 85 R16's. Factory size for the 02 3500 from what I understand? 

Yes. But also in the early 2nd gens they used 215/85 R16 that was stock 3500. Then the other size for 2500 is 245/75 R16 or 265/75 R16 for 2500.

 

I've rode in @IBMobile truck with 4:10 gears and 245s tires that is a quick truck. Then with @Dynamic built transmission very impressive power. 

 

@Ironforger yup that is it. Typically used in industrial transmissions like Eaton Fuller.

Deleted...got my numbers mixed 

Edited May 28, 20204 yr by 015point9
Mistake

On 5/27/2020 at 10:29 PM, Ironforger said:

Made it safe, only issue I had was a clogged axle vent tube. Discovered it quite by accident.

 

 

Ok I'm back in NJ. Completed 2000 mile round trip to Florida.  So I had a chance to cut open that clogged axle vent tube. It was full of mud wasp nest. About 1 foot of it, from the open end. I have no idea how long it was like this. I never checked it before. I'm guessing years.

Check your axle vent tube guys!

So Ironically my wheel seals were not leaking while the axle housing was under pressure but now my drivers side axle seal IS leaking!  WTF? Ok so as I mentioned on may 27th I discovered the clogged vent shortly after I departed on my trip. There was NO sign of axle seal leaking.  I checked it again 1000 miles later when I arrived if Florida. NO leaking. Ok so I arrive home in NJ another 1000 miles later and the drivers side axle is leaking!!  

 

Ok so I'll replace the seals. I need to do a rear brake job / new rotors anyway. Just ironic that I get a leaky seal after clearing the axle vent tube. I replaced them 23,000 miles ago when I first got the truck. Could it be from long distance driving as @Towrigdually mentioned? I stopped overnight on my drives, so I was driving about 10 hours straight each day. 

 

On another note, I greased my U-joints when I arrived in Florida. Got some water out of the center one again. We did have torrential rain in Florida when I arrived and yea that joint is exposed directly to rain since it sits below the cab and bed opening.  Checked it again when I got back to NJ, no water this time! However the joint seemed a tiny bit loose to me. Possibly worn due to water exposure.  I may replace it. Once I do I'll fabricate a metal rain shield above it.

Edited June 9, 20204 yr by Ironforger

I’d say it’s from driving and just worn out. While you have it torn down just make sure you can put a pick through the spot the hose goes and it’s clear of Debris. 
as for the water, probably just from rain and being in a high moisture environment even when it’s not. It still shouldn’t have happened though, sounds like the seal on one of the cups is bad.